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Fairmont drag car build - Hanging/hinging DS door 8/10/16


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Thanks Jason. The progress hasn't been nearly as rapid or consistent as I'd have liked, but I'm hoping I'm over the hump with at least the front end issues.

Hey Bill - Thanks for your encouragement.

Tyrone: Thanks bro. Coming from you - that means a lot!

Thank you Wayne. Hopefully I can get up a head of steam on this - finally! LOL

Dave - There's learning on my part, too. I've watched Chris work on his Army car for so long and seen him rework things when they weren't up to his standards. I've tried to follow that same thinking.

Thanks for the encouragement, James!

Thank you, Bill. Hopefully we'll see each other in a few months in KS... :)

Hey Chris - Thanks brother. I'm constantly reminded of trying to do my best, after seeing all you've done to make your F/C build what it is.

Thanks Art! When things are going right, it's a lot of fun to think ahead, daydream, problem solve and all the other mind-game related things we do when planning. Executing is the next challenge! LOL

I got the upper strut mounts attached night before last and I'm working on the lower A-arm tubing - getting it cut to the right length and see that the caster/camber stay where they're supposed to be. I'm trying to figure out where my brake hard line tubing is going to be routed so I know where to put hold downs and fittings.

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  • 1 month later...

Lots of updates to review! I'll start with picking up where I left off with the front suspension. I have added a couple of small, but important pieces to my front suspension. They are a lower A-arm "wishbone" that ties the two pieces of stainless tubing together at the lower strut mount. The wishbones are .010" thick and the sandwich spacers, shown on the red backing, are .015".

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When sandwiched above and below the wishbone, the overall thickness is nearly identical with the .042 tubing diameter, as can be seen in this pic.

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This angle shows how much more three dimensional and substantial the mount is when the spacers are added.

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I made a major decision to open the doors on this build about three weeks ago. I have several interior details that I was afraid would be lost in the shuffle if something wasn't done to offer more visibility. I will be using PE Lenco hand and detent levers and stainless tubing for the trans, plus PE trans tunnel, and pedals, among other things. If I'm going to do that, I decided I might as well make the front fenders removable too. Where this is all going is that I want to maintain as close a fit as possible between the various body components, so have added several sets of new pins to tie the body and pan together before cutting stuff apart. I have the luxury of having spare bodies that I was able to start the process and see if it is possible to do without botching everything. I'm pretty sure I can pull it off. I originally pinned the body only in front of the rear wheel wells as fore-aft locators. I have since added ones that will tie the rocker panels into the pan, as well as doing separate ones for the lower fenders and rear of the pan at the back bumper. I still intend to add some at the upper rear edge of the fenders at the base of the windshield. Gotta think about those a bit more.

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Guess I'll quit a this for the moment. More to come!

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The body, grille and taillight bezels, PE (2-pc grille, door handles, and (door) window sill trim) all lenses, and templates for front and rear glass are $55. Additionally, flat or cowl hoods are $5; the pro stock hood with PE scoop top is $8. S&H is $5 for one body and discounted for multiple body orders.

Edited by futurattraction
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A few more pics for the night, then I won't be able to post anything for a couple days. I removed quite a bit of material on the outboard edges of the kick-up in front of the tubs. With the introduction of interior door panels, I am planning to make panels to fill the inside of the B-pillar down to the floor and it'll be cleaner to have one panel from floor to roof rather than fitting around that portion of the pan.

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This shot gives you an idea of what the pan looks like with the additional material I added to incorporate hinges into the pan. It also gives it a bit more of an appearance of what a firewall/bulkhead area looked like on a Fairmont body-in-white (if you stretch your imagination quite a bit).

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I've also started adding framing for the trunk lid. It will add a bit more realism, plus offer some support for the lower edge of the back window and forward trunk lid.

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Here are a couple shots of door skins I've begun working on. I chucked up a Dremel bit in my drill press and raised the bed up to where there was about a .050" distance from bottom of the cutter to the table surface. I created a temporary stop so I could sort of control my line and "milled" some of the material away from three of the four edges of the door to make it more uniform. There's more to do, but this at least points me in the right direction.

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c5de43e5-2b40-48b9-a82e-ad62ec1bcec9_zps

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