K&S metal sheets?

[DPNM]

I am working on a 1/8th scale motorcycle build. I will be making my own gas tank for it and I could use some input. The tank has a multitude of basically straight angles. I have mocked it up with a thin piece of card-stock. I have the angles right but need an idea of what to make it from.

My first thought is plastic, I have it scribed out on a piece of Evergreen .040 sheet. I haven't cut it out and started folding it yet but my guess (fear) is it may break at the scribe(s) when I do fold it.

I have thought about filling each scribe line, once I fold it, with superglue/baking soda (or baking powder) as I've seen some use on the forum to help with strength. To do this I would have to be sure it's at the correct angle before doing the next scribe line.

My other thought is forming it from a thin piece of metal such as what K&S offers. My hesitation here is the ability to bend it, a small metal brake would be ideal but looking around they are out of my budget right now, and being able to cut it with the tools I have on hand. I don't know the best thickness to start with either. It has to be thin but not flimsy.

It may be easier to post a WiP on the build but I'm not that far along yet (I've been concentrating on what to me will be the hardest parts-such as the tank).

Any advice would be appreciated.

[astroracer]

Harbor freight has a couple of "hand seamers" that are perfect for bending small pieces of metal. I have a few different sizes I use in the shop all the time. 6 or 8 bucks apiece makes them very affordable.

Also go to your local Home Depot or Lowes and ask for some aluminum flashing, it will be in the roofing section. This usually comes in 5" x 7" sheets and you can buy it by the sheet very cheaply. It is .010 thick and very easy to work.

Mark

[Ace-Garageguy]

Unless you're familiar with some metal forming and joining techniques, fabbing your tank will be easier and more forgiving with styrene.

If you have an ACCURATE cardstock mockup, just follow it carefully and if the plastic splits on the scribes (which it MAY, depending on how deeply you scribe it), just glue it back together with LIQUID cement. It will set up quick enough to handle and stay together, and still be pliable enough to adjust the rest of your pieces as you go. And since you're working in 1/8 scale, you may find it considerably easier to use a much thicker styrene sheet than .040".

CA glue with baking soda added is used as a filler by some folks, but the baking soda really adds no strength. I mean...it's baking soda. It's not a structural reinforcement like glass fibers.

Once you get all your pieces cemented together and symmetrical, let the plastic cement harden up. Then add a bead of toughened Loctite superglue to the seams for reinforcement. I've used this technique successfully for scratch-building many things.

[DPNM]

Mark, Thank you for your input. Come to think of it I lent a HF seamer to a friend of mine. Til you mentioned it I had forgotten all about it. My "Old Timers" is is in high gear! If I don't use it for this project I will get it back. I am also not sure how well Dupli-Color paint will stick to aluminum. I may try to find a piece of tin to try.

Bill, I appreciate your input also. Pics below are my mock up. I may not have bent it at the exact places so it may be off a little but I am fairly certain that is pretty much in the ball-park.

I have never had success trying to reglue seams like these when they broke, hence, my fear. Never having used it I did not know that the baking soda/powder wasn't structural. Thanks for the heads up on the Loctite.

I used the .040 as that is what I had readily at hand. I am going to try the plastic this weekend and I will search for a thicker piece of plastic before then and try that too.

I will also mock up another piece of card-stock first as this one has taken some abuse. It will let me double check my measurements at the same time.

Edited May 7, 2014 by DPNM

[astroracer]

If you don't go the aluminum route use .010 or .015 thick sheet plastic. It will bend easily with your hand seamers and will not split for those small angle bends. I would go with the aluminum though, just as easy to work with and it will glue as well with the super gloo...

For painting the aluminum use ScotchBrite to rough up the surface and then spray it with an epoxy primer. Keep it clean while painting and you should have no problems.

Mark

[DPNM]

Thanks again Mark. I tried to bend the plastic today and, of course, it split. No luck trying to glue it either. I should be able to get a piece of metal sheet-stock this week-end for plan B. I still have to fetch my seamer. Plan C is a thicker piece of plastic and I will have to try hard for an idea if I need a plan D.

I posted my project in the "All the Rest" section. It is titled: Digger Style 1/8 Harley. If you care to reply, please post there as I will probably have a Moderator delete this post. I do appreciate Bill's and your responses.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Sorry the plastic didn't work out, and good luck with the project. Nice to see you reworking a salvaged built-up model too.

Edited May 8, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[Harry P.]

Looks like you could carve it out of a block of basswood, seal, sand, prime and paint.

[Ace-Garageguy]

I'd mos' likely carve it from foam and glass it. But that's just me.

[DPNM]

Thanks again for more tips guys!!! Plan D might be to carve it out of foam and then resin cast it.