Speedfreak Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I've never used epoxy for modeling before and would just like to know where people use it and why. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Kucaba Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I use it when I want a strong joint/reinforcement. I also mix it with Micro-balloons as one of my favorite fillers. I only use the 30 minute cure time item, not the 5 minute kind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaronw Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Epoxy is good for putting different materials together like metal or resin parts to plastic particularly when you want a little working time to line things up. Super glue can do most of the same job, but it usually sets up faster than epoxy which is not always helpful. I've never used it as a stand alone filler but do use it to fill gaps between parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Basher Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Among other things, I like to use it to attach chrome mirrors or door handles to a painted body. It won't damage the paint or the chrome, and will stick to both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 First off, the 5-minute stuff has very little strength, though it is useful for attaching small parts and temporary work. As a filler with microballoon, 30-minute or longer epoxy gives good adhesion and ease of sanding, but you gotta be kinda careful with the mix ratios to get consistent results. You can use it as an extremely strong structural gap-filler by mixing a little cotton-flock (milled cotton fiber) into it. Decent (not 5-min) epoxy usually gives a stronger bond than CA, and it makes nice weld-fillets of you're doing any custom roll cage scratch-building. Along with everything else, I use it to make repair sections, molds, and reproduction parts. I made molds from the resin shell shown below, to replace missing areas on the old Johan body shell above it. Repair in progress... On the left is a mold made from the red body on the far right. A reproduction of the molded area is shown at center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I tend to disagree with you Ace as 5-Minute Epoxy makes a strong bond and dries clear. I use it for just about everything as it can be used with different materials such as spark plug wires, clear parts, etc. Since using Epoxy to build my models, I no longer have to take a "repair kit" when I take my models to show, club meetings, NNL's, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks to everyone for the replies. Is '5-Minute Epoxy' a brand, or , just a type? Which leads to..., What are the good brand(s) of both 30 and 5 minute epoxy's? And what is microballon? Never heard of it. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 I tend to disagree with you Ace as 5-Minute Epoxy makes a strong bond and dries clear. I use it for just about everything as it can be used with different materials such as spark plug wires, clear parts, etc. Since using Epoxy to build my models, I no longer have to take a "repair kit" when I take my models to show, club meetings, NNL's, etc. I'll take your word and try it again. The last time I used it, several years ago, it was not up to what I needed. I'd like to have another quick adhesive available, so like I said, I'll give it another try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks to everyone for the replies. Is '5-Minute Epoxy' a brand, or , just a type? Which leads to..., What are the good brand(s) of both 30 and 5 minute epoxy's? And what is microballon? Never heard of it. Thanks. Most hobby shops that deal in RC aircraft have acceptable epoxies, and most of them label them as 5 or 30 minute. In general, the LONGER any epoxy takes to cure, the STRONGER it will be. I know this to be indisputable fact from many years in REAL aviation composite structures. Also, in general, the more exact an epoxy must be measured for mixing, the stronger it will be. DO NOT EVER use more "hardener" in epoxy to make it cure faster or in cold weather. This may work to a limited degree with polyester resins, but will RUIN the characteristics of epoxies. "Microballoon" is an inert lightweight powder commonly used, mixed with epoxy, to form a paste that is used as a filler on full-scale and flying-model aircraft. Again, RC aircraft guys know all about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Bill, the 'microballon' stuff sounds cool, my local HS guys build their on RC aircraft so I'm sure they can fix me up. I've created a semi-nightmare with the Altered Fiat 392 by not putting the wires in the magneto 'first' and then completeing the wiring, I did it the other way round, (bet I don't do that again) and it's a pickle at this point, because of the 'looms' and the fact that I'm doing the correct firing order so there's wires on opposite sides of the magneto AND partly 'cause I'm using super glue. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Epoxy is not only choice in bonding dis-similar materials (resin to plastic to metal to….) it's the only stuff that really works in securing window "glass" without fogging (like CA glues will do) and popping loose (like the white-glue based "canopy adhesives"). Just have to be careful if it get's "string-y" as that can ruin your day. I apply it with a long, wooden dowel so I have good reach with a SMALL amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 While I use Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy and it sets up in 'bout 5 minutes, it is fully cured in 24 hours. When gluing delicate parts, I let them dry for a day. I also "pin" items like outside side view mirrors before gluing them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Thanks John and Nick. I'll be going to my LHS today so I'll get some epoxy and some microballons try it out. Do you guys use the epoxy filler for things like engine block seams? 'Cause I've been using thick super glue for that and it works ok but is not great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 I usually file-fit as tight as I can , then use Tenax7 to melt it all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunajammer Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 I use the 5-minute epoxy when I want a strong bond with a little work time. Lately I've been using it to attach windshields and delicate areas of glass because it dries completely clear (more forgiving of slips or slops) and bonds better than white glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 I got some 5-minute epoxy today at my LHS (the place was packed!) and looked at the 'microballons' and the guy working with me scared me about the toxicity of the stuff. He said wear a mask AND goggles when you use the stuff because it's little glass beads that can float in the air, I'm not sure I wanna go there. One more thing, can I just use a little plastic cup to mix the epoxy in? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I've been usin' Bondo lately as a filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 I think I'll be going to something like that soon Nick. From what most people on here say that's the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaronw Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 One more thing, can I just use a little plastic cup to mix the epoxy in? Thanks! Yes, I got a pack of probably 100 plastic 2oz cups at a Hobbytown USA several years ago for $3.49. They go a long way because I can often pop the cured resin out and reuse the cup many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Thanks Aaron, I tried it tonight and used very small (think shot glass!) plastic cup, worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Un-waxed paper small Dixie bathroom drinking cups work too. You don't have to bother popping the cured epoxy out of the cups if you're neat and don't get the un-mixed goo all over the insides of the cups. Just let the stuff harden up, and mix again over the top of the hardened material. This even works fine on the carefully-controlled, high-strength resins I use on REAL aircraft...which HAVE to be mixed on a gram-scale. Micro-balloon isn't exactly "toxic" either. It's inert glass. You just don't want to inhale it, but it's not an issue at all if you use a little intelligence while handling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 I think I've got ' a little ' intelligence so maybe I'll give microballons a try 'cause it sounds really helpful. Bill, do you wear a mask when you use the stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) Yes, absolutely...but just a dust mask. A respirator would be better, really. The stuff is SO light weight that it tends to float away if you're the least bit horsey handilng it, and it's good to use a mixing container much larger than you'd think, to contain it as much as possible during mixing. Mix your epoxy thoroughly first, and then add micro a little at a time, mixing as you go, until you get the desired consistency. I mix mine on a gram-scale now, to get exactly the same results every time, but not even all guys using the stuff on real sport-planes bother with accurate weights. You develop tricks as you get familiar with it too, like standing upwind of your mixing cup, etc. I did the heavy fill that HAD to be good and last, with epoxy / micro, on top of the center-hood of this build. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65965 Edited May 27, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaronw Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 What is the point of the micro balloons? I have heard of people using it with a glue for a filler, but don't really understand the benefit over just using epoxy, thick CA alone or in place of a 2 part filler like bondo alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedfreak Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Aaron, (not many names start with '2' A's) I think that one reason might be that you can get the consistency/weight that you want dependent on the amount of microballons you add, this makes it (epoxy/microballons) very versitile. That's my take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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