crazyjim Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Wal-Mart has the fishing line. They also carry it in clear/clear. Get the thick stuff 40lb test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Thanks for the lead, Jim. I will check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 I posted a link to some cool 50 Olds pics here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64757 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Fishburn Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 .......I've been carefully analyzing the moves necessary to make a fastback '50 Olds using the AMT '51 Chevy fleetline roof section. So far, this looks to be made a little trickier by a couple of things. First, the doors of the '50 Olds are significantly longer than the doors on the Chevy. It's unlikely this is the case in 1:1, as they were both based on the same body-shell tooling and photographs of both cars seem to convincingly indicate the doors were in fact the same length. The discrepancy will necessitate more rework of the B-pillars. The difference in length between the two cars appears, as it is in reality, to be ahead of the firewall and so will not effect the roof transplant. The second problem is the shape of the windshield opening. They are not the same at all on the models, while they ARE the same in 1:1. GM did NOT change all of the tooling related to the windshield opening on the bodyshell between 1950 and 1951. And though the 1:1 Olds has one-piece glass and the Chevy has a divider, it was common to swap the one-piece windshield into the cheaper car during customization. That's a pretty convincing argument that they SHOULD be the same shape. I'm pretty sure the deviations from scale will be in the older AMT tooling, because the new Revell Olds looks very very good. I was rather hoping to be able to graft the roof in its entirety on to the Olds body shell, but preserving the shape of the windshield opening of the Olds (to avoid making a custom windshield) will dictate a splice having to be made through the center of the roof. Certainly straightforward enough for an old top-chopper, but more work anyway. Just for information purposes, just among the 1951 Chevrolets, there are five different two door passenger car body styles. (Bel Air hardtop, Bel Air convertible, Fleetline, Styleline, and Sport/business coupe.) The only ones that MIGHT interchange are the two Bel Air versions (not 100% sure on those) as far as interchangability between the Bel Air, Styleline, Fleetline and Sport/business coupes- they do not. Styleline and the coupes are close, but it still takes metal surgery to make one fit the other. The point is: Even though the bodies are similar in shape, You can't assume interchangability. Add the fact that you're jumping across brand lines, one of which is already known to have longer fenders, and it translates to us still needing to do some homework if we're going to try to turn the Olds into something other than the coupe that it already is. Of course- if you do all of the homework, make everything 100% prototypically correct- the only people who will know that you did it are the ones that you tell. It's all close enough to fool darn near every eye. The data I gave about door differences in the '51 Chevy comes from having to replace a door on a 1:1, in case anyone wonders where I came up with that. And- more relevant: I just got my Olds kit last night. VERY nice piece. Excellent work, Revell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cool Hand Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Cant wait for this kit to land here in Australia,then again I dont think I will be able to wait and will end up importing a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 The data I gave about door differences in the '51 Chevy comes from having to replace a door on a 1:1, in case anyone wonders where I came up with that. Good post. I'm wondering now which 1:1 door you had to massage to fit which car, and by how much and where. Never know when that bit of arcane knowledge might come in handy in my biz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hmmm.................I picked one up today at the LHS. I'm a little concerned with the decal white walls, but other than that it looks super. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Yeah, those are pretty sad compared to what AMT and Moebius are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 No idea, Lee. Just Google "red fishing line" and you'll have plenty of options. It's in the party section right next to "red solo cup." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borgis Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Just get some clear line and paint it. Yes I know the third air cleaner is on crooked but that's fixed now. Edited October 9, 2012 by Borgis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hmmm.................I picked one up today at the LHS. I'm a little concerned with the decal white walls, but other than that it looks super. That's one of the two beefs I have as well, especially since the box advertises tampo printed white walls. The decals can look good however, and it is easy. Brush Future on the sidewalls, apply the decals, then coat in clear flat. They look good if done coorectly. Tommy Logan, Roadhawg here on the forum, has done it with lettering, and they look nice. My other beef is the lask of underhood bracing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I can live with decalized whitewalls- I'd rather have that than a printed whitewall that isn't centered or smudged. If worst comes to worst I can always airbrush 'em with white acrylic. I am a little puzzled as to why they didn't print the whitewalls on this one, since the ones in the '48 Ford coupes are done pretty well. Maybe for the NASCAR version? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38 Crush Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Because the tires are hollow you can break or crack that ww decal real easy, especially putting the wheel on or pushing down too hard on the model. Note Here be careful. I'm just going to airbrush mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluhead Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Got any ideas as to how & duplicate the old transparent red fuel line tubing from back then, & the red spark transparent red spark plug wires also? Thanks for all of the ideas I know I'll get. No need to buy fishing line...although no doubt that is another solution. We all have all the clear red fuel line we'd ever need right in our stashes. Just stretch some taillight sprue. http://www.modelcars...=40#entry786331 Decal w/w's? Nothing to fuss about at all. No need to even get out the airbrush...just thin out some acr white and brush them out. Looks better than any of the other options anyway. Bill, thanks for checking out the speed parts options. I didn't realize the '40 sedan had an Olds mill. Now I have to track those parts down. And you're right on the fastback insight, although no doubt we'll see several conversion projects and a resin body in no time at all. Will/way and all that. So far, I couldn't be much more pleased with this kit. I'm making my first build a very mild custom to celebrate the quality of the kit as it comes. I'm betting my second one is a hardtop conversion. Thank you, Revell. Kudos! Edited October 9, 2012 by Gluhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatz4u Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 got mine today, lhs, $20.99 !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I think the deal with the whitewalls is that there's some stretching and prodding required to get the tire over the wheel - nothing traumatic, but maybe a bit more than a tampo print would tolerate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MachinistMark Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Got mine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 I think the deal with the whitewalls is that there's some stretching and prodding required to get the tire over the wheel - nothing traumatic, but maybe a bit more than a tampo print would tolerate. Could be. If so, if you use the whitewalls according to the directions I mentioned, you would want to do all of it after mounting the tires to the wheels, as that same flexing would probably crack the Future, decals, and clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 (edited) Yessir. Depending on their opacity and surface conformity, the decals might be a more desirable approach than masking and laying on white paint, even with the steps you described. **edit** - Hey Harold, sorry about that - I just realized I was essentially repeating what you said... Edited October 10, 2012 by Chuck Kourouklis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38 Crush Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 You know years ago I did a test using every flat white paint I could get my hands on and spraying whitewalls onto tires. Then I squizzed and twisted them to see if they would crack. The only paint that stood up that test was Tamiya XF2 flat white. Works for me everytime! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gluhead Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 That's the one I use, Harold. It does the job very well. Just for kicks I tried out one of the w/w decals. It snugged down okay with liberal use of MicroSet, but it's a hair too large. If you plan to use them, they'll need to be carefully trimmed down slightly with a #11 and a circle template. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgefever Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I've noticed a couple of people painting the bellhousing on the Olds engine a silver/grey bare metal finish. The bellhousing was integral with the block casting, so it should be engine colour. This is a slightly later 324, but the same basic casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Brian Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Good info, thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Yup! I'll use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Thanks Stu, good to know. None of my reference pics show that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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