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C5-R 2001 Corvette Pro Mod (WIP....team car)


hOLMS

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Hello All,

This is the Corvette I'm taking a break from to do the Chevelle. This dude started out as a Rolex 24hr car that was ready for decaling to be finished, so I started chopping. Posting some pix of current progress, I hope to be back on this after I finish my current project, hoping to make it a team car. This has a good bit of body mods so far and I think my next step is to cut the back off (in front of rear wheel) and raise app 3/32 to 1/8 and blend to finish off the wedge. Thanks for looking!

Front diagonal cut to lengthen nose

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Mid-cut to lengthen center, would have been to much to do all in the nose

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Body back 2gether, Rough frt air dam, extended top of frt fenderwell

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Extended sides, smoothed over nose

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Body in primer

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Chassis locked in, ride height close

DCP_3704.jpg

Scratchbuilt hood, motor started, and nose removed

DCP_3918.jpg

Ready 4 more work

DCP_3911.jpg

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Very awesome work were is a good source for the brass rod/tube that you are using i have a couple projects on the drawing board that i would like to use this on i just hope i can get what i'm doing to come out half as good as this again great work

Willie

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Very awesome work were is a good source for the brass rod/tube that you are using i have a couple projects on the drawing board that i would like to use this on i just hope i can get what i'm doing to come out half as good as this again great work

Willie

Willie, thanks for the kind words. You should be able to find what you need @ www.ksmetals.com. At their site, they show the usual retailers and their offerings. Most hobby shops do carry a full line in copper and brass. Some hardware stores carry the brand, but not all the smaller tubing. The great thing about brass and copper is they will solder together very well. I use WaterFlow 2000, which is a water soluble paste flux....for non-electrical soldering. I use .022dia Rosin-Core Silver-Bearing solder (can be bought at Radio Shack).

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I've seen several of these chassis scratch builds and I am always amazed at how perfect they look. The scale of the tubing to the shape and bends of your car are perfect.

How do you go about skinning these chassis? When comes to the floor pan and tubs how do you install those? When do you paint it, after the interior skinning or before?

Edited by seveeRRacing
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Willie, thanks for the kind words. You should be able to find what you need @ www.ksmetals.com. At their site, they show the usual retailers and their offerings. Most hobby shops do carry a full line in copper and brass. Some hardware stores carry the brand, but not all the smaller tubing. The great thing about brass and copper is they will solder together very well. I use WaterFlow 2000, which is a water soluble paste flux....for non-electrical soldering. I use .022dia Rosin-Core Silver-Bearing solder (can be bought at Radio Shack).

Jeff thanks a ton for the info i have plans for a "70 Mustange Pro-Mod i just hope it comes out half as good as your build again Thanks and Great work

Willie

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Jeff, Awesome work so far! You are blowing me away with the Chevelle and now this.

The chassis looks perfect and the body work is looking great so far.

It amazes me to see chassis' made of the copper and brass tubing. I don't think I'd even attempt such a project with these materials.

I have an upcoming Reher Morrison Beretta Pro Stock project that I have to extend the nose on the body. I originally wasn't going to extend the nose but after seeing the work you are doing on the Chevelle and now the Vette you've inspired me to go for it.

I'll be watching both of your builds and can't wait to see them finished.

Edited by crowe-t
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Thanx for following my builds and the nice comments.......planning, research and creativity are key and I learn something new almost every time I work on these two projects. I hope to learn much more during this build!

Mitch: There will be several of the sheet metal panels that will be modeled as structural...meaning they will actually be soldered to the frame. The floor panels and tranny tunnel will be built as seperate pcs like a real pro-mod and the panels that seal body to interior will be seperate. I've left one side of the chassis open for fitting the floor. All will be fitted before chassis is painted. Structural panels will be chassis color which leaves the seperate pcs to a choice of any color and then glue/attach them in place. The tubs will snap in place.

Willie: Good luck on the '70 Mustang....very cool car

Michael: Sounds like you have a fun build planned....good luck on the stretch!

Tyrone: Upstate (Spartanburg area)

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