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Installing Windshiels


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I need some help and advice on what are some ways to install (glue in) windshields etc. I have used clear out of a bottle, glue, which works OK but have to scrape paint so it will stick, and I really don't like to do this. Have also used Testors clear parts cement. I have had some good luck but have also had some bad luck. It seems like my worst problem is getting a tiny bit of whatever I'm using to glue it in, gets on the "glass" and that's all she wrote but that's operator error. Hopefully someone out there can help me.

Thanks.

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I've used Micro Krystal Klear from Microscale but have found that Weldbond from the hardware store is just as good. It's a white glue that dries clear, but can be washed up with water before it dries. I paint it on from the inside, trying to get it to flow under the edge of the window a bit. You have to let it dry overnight for a good bond, though

http://www.bare-metal.com/decals/microscale_3.html

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Thanks for the responses.

Can the Micro Krystal Klear or Elmers be applied to the paint where the windshield is to be installed and do you have a special way of installing? Where I run into trouble is trying to get the windshield or whatever into position without getting any glue on it and holding it there until the glue at least dries enough to hold the piece in place. Maybe this is a roll of the dice.

I never thought about trying to clean up with water on the clear Testors that I have so I'll test the Testors. One of those brain lock downs.

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Yeah, you can put the glue on over paint................as far as getting it on the windshield, that's gonna happen------but should clean up with some water. It just takes some patience and a steady hand to keep the windshield in place until it dries.

I use 5 min epoxy for windshields as I need something with a little more strength since I usually make my windshields out of clear stencil sheet. I get epoxy on my windshields.......(sometimes a LOT) but it cleans up with alcohol and then I polish it out with wax.

For late '50's early '60's wraparound windshields, epoxy for me is a must! ;)

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Here's what I do.

I use Testors Clear Windshield Glue.

I install the "glass" and temporarily hold it in place with low-tack 3M blue tape (careful not to stick the tape to anything that has been Chrome Foiled or decals applied). Hold the glass in place them the inside, then stick the tape to the glass and the body.

Now apply the windshield glue sparingly to the body near the glass so it barely flows in place. If you get some on the glass that will be visible, you can wipe if off quickly with a damp cloth.

Let the glue cure about an hour, remove the tape. Voila! No glue-finger smudges and the glass didn't shift while the glue was curing.

Tim

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Here's what I do.

I use Testors Clear Windshield Glue.

I install the "glass" and temporarily hold it in place with low-tack 3M blue tape (careful not to stick the tape to anything that has been Chrome Foiled or decals applied). Hold the glass in place them the inside, then stick the tape to the glass and the body.

Now apply the windshield glue sparingly to the body near the glass so it barely flows in place. If you get some on the glass that will be visible, you can wipe if off quickly with a damp cloth.

Let the glue cure about an hour, remove the tape. Voila! No glue-finger smudges and the glass didn't shift while the glue was curing.

Tim

Tim,

A quick question. You say hold the glass them the inside, then stick the tape etc. I'm not quite following you. Do you mean hold the glass from the inside? If the glass is mounted from the inside do you put the tape on the outside to hold it? If so, it makes sense to me then I can flow the glue completly around the glass. Please bear with me on this one.

Thanks,

Win

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I use Future, since I use it as a clear coat and dip the "glass" in it before I start it doesn't matter if I get some some where other than where I need it. It works great anywhere I can use gravity to hold the glass in place while it dries. Once dry it is quite strong.

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I use Future, since I use it as a clear coat and dip the "glass" in it before I start it doesn't matter if I get some some where other than where I need it. It works great anywhere I can use gravity to hold the glass in place while it dries. Once dry it is quite strong.

Thanks for the tip...I'll try (almost) anything once. My main problem is that I don't know what Future is except you said it's a clear coat. Is it something I would buy at my LHS. Guess I'm a little slow from driving truck a lot of years.lol

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Future is a clear acrylic finish folks put on linoleum floors to make 'em nice and shiny. You can get it at your local grocery store.

I've been using it for years as a barrier on plastic for hot automotive paints. Also works well to keep that nasty red or yellow plastic from bleeding through on models that you want to paint white particularly. :rolleyes:

Here's an article on the complete rundown of Future Floor Wax.

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Future is a clear acrylic finish folks put on linoleum floors to make 'em nice and shiny. You can get it at your local grocery store.

I've been using it for years as a barrier on plastic for hot automotive paints. Also works well to keep that nasty red or yellow plastic from bleeding through on models that you want to paint white particularly. ;)

Here's an article on the complete rundown of Future Floor Wax.

OK...I have seen Future on the shelves but had forgotten about it. I went into the article about Future and learned a lot and thank you for it. That's a sassy looking '55 Ford and I sure do like the color and lookin' good.

Looks like your cats have a rough life and are "at the ready".lol

Thanks again all of you for your help.

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What ever you do don't use super glue (Cyanoacrylate) I made this mistake on my Autocar Dump truck. The result was extremely disapointing to say the least (Left a fog like covering and showed fingerprints etc Aaarrrggghhhh!!!).

If you coat your clear parts with Future, CA glue won't do that to them. It even protects from the dreaded glue and paint covered thumb print, a little windex and it all comes right off.

I really should get a kick back from Johnson & Johnson with as much as I push Future to other modelers. :lol:

Edited by Aaronw
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