A little experiment

[DaytonaTim]

Hey guys. I have been pretty quiet lately on the forum. Been working on some around the house projects and have not had much time for modeling. On top of that I have been working on a "Super Secret" project for TDR. But this weekend I found some time to get back to the modeling bench......sort of

I have been wanting to try an experiment and try using my 3 axis CNC mill to carve out a wooden steeing wheel in 1/8. Well I modeled one up in the computer, shook the cobwebs out of the CNC mill (I have not used it in about 2 years), found a scrap piece of pine laying around, and started carving it up.

It did not turn out half bad for a first attempt and for using soft pine. Now I am going to have to try and find some nice hardwoods to carve this thing out of.

Mind you, this is just the back half of the steering wheel. I did this half because it has the finger grips on it and I figured it would be the one with the most features. If I use some smaller tooling I should be able to get the rivit holes cut into the wood too. Putting some nice brass rods in them sure would set this wheel off.

Oh, as far as the center, spoked part of the wheel goes, I have that figured out already and I will post it up when I get the chance to make one up. It wont be made using the mill, no it will just be cut out of some styrene.

Anyway, here are some pic showing the machining process. I just brushed the wheel with some sandpaper and applied some stain I had laying around the house. I am sure it could be made to look a lot better with some hardwood, more sanding,using a sealer and what-not. This was just something quick and dirty.

Edited June 19, 2010 by DaytonaTim

[AzTom]

Now that is too cool!

AzTom

[DaytonaTim]

This thing is really working out!!

I cut the front side of the steering wheel, the wooden face, just like I did the back.

Then I tried something new and layed out the "metal" outer ring of the wheel. The part that gets sandwiched between the wooden parts. Then I layed out the spoked center part. I layed them out in the computer as just flat "sheet metal" like parts, and cut them out with the CNC mill. It worked perfectly. I cut them out of .015" styrene plastic.

Then I just bent the spoked part of the rim up and glued it to the outer ring. Then I just glued the two wooden parts on. It all fit up perfect right out of the gate.

I have attached some pics. It is hard to see but there is a plastic ring laminated between the wooden parts.

I am wanting to try this out with some better wood. I figure since it is 1/8th scale I need a nice tight grained wood, so the wood grain will look in scale too. Does anybody have any suggestions. I was thinking mahogony might work. I only need the wood to be about 1/8" thick to cut the parts out of, so maybe a heavy veneer would work.

I am curiouse what people think about this wheel. I don't know if anybody would be interested in purchasing one of these, through TDR. Any input on size, wood, or designs would be greatly appreciated. If enough people express interest I will try and work up some kits to put in our catalog.

Anyway, here are some pics. Now remember this was just a test mule to see if this technique would work. No attempt was made to fancy up the design just yet.

Edited June 21, 2010 by DaytonaTim

[DaytonaTim]

Well tonight I decided to up the challenge a little. Don asked me if I could maybe make the spoked part out of brass or aluminium. Since I had some .010" brass laying around I figured I would give it a try. I have never cut any metal on my mill before so this was a first for me. It did not turn out half bad. Not as good as a PE sheet but nothing that a few brushes of 400 grit sandpaper could not fix.

I also decided to try and make the spokes a little more fancey so I put some cutout in them. It kind of takes away the "clunkyness....." of the last one.

I still have to work on the wooden parts some. I may have to manually program something to bore the rivit holes. You can see the mill cut a few of them but not all. This is because the tool path just happened to pass right over the center of the hole so the .03125 end mill was able to bore them. If it does not pass directly over the center then it wont cut them.

Any way here are some pics

[Danno]

Wow. Can't wait to see it all finished.

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Well done Tim...looks great.

Any possibility you would make up a few "kits"?

If so put my name on the list, this is going to look fantastic with the addition rivets and "fancy" wood.

Edited June 22, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[Ferrari-Cobra]

Great job Tim,

your skills always are amazing mixing the hobby with technology!

To bad you can not find a PE company that will do small runs and does not cost a fortune

Keep up the great work!

David

[Cato]

Tim,

Great work. Excellent for a street rod or early muscle car-less dish for a Cobra.

[DaytonaTim]

Thanks guys.

I would like to work up some kits. I still need to work out making the rivit holes and then get some good material to use. I found some thick veneers that I can order for the wood. Since nobody has offered any suggestions on the wood type I will just get a variety pack and take pot luck.

I have been doing some digging around on the type of metal to use and I came across a "nickle silver" metal. It looks a lot like brushed aluminium but it can be soldered. I may give it a try. Nothing like a true polished metal to really set the wheel off.

Thanks David. I spend way too much time modeling things that never get build. This is kind of like therapy for me.....but with out the bill at the end of the month. We, TDR, have been looking into some PE work. It is possible that we may try some in the future, I thought a generic auto parts sheet might go over good. You know, stuff like true scale automobile washers, wormscrew clamps, guages........ stuf like that. It is pretty expensive, about $500 for the first sheet. Maybe carving them out on the mill will let us test the waters and see what the market is for PE before taking the big money plunge.

Hey David, how is that 1/12 RP project coming? Have you made any headway on it yet?

Cato, those were my thoughts exactly. I set this wheel up with a 3 inch dish (1:1) is that too deep for a Cobra? Does anybody know what the correct dish depth is for a Motto Lita Cobra wheel? If I am going to do it I should get it right the first time. One thing about it thought, the dish is somewhat adjustable. All you have to do is trim the spokes a little shorter and not bend them so much.

If anybody has the correct dimensions for the Motto Lita wheel please let me know.

[Cato]

Cato, those were my thoughts exactly. I set this wheel up with a 3 inch dish (1:1) is that too deep for a Cobra? Does anybody know what the correct dish depth is for a Motto Lita Cobra wheel?

If anybody has the correct dimensions for the Motto Lita wheel please let me know.

My wheel is 1 3/8" from hub mount face to rivets on wood outer face. MotoLita made 16" (used on all originals) and 15" version. I chose a 15 for additional hand to cowl clearance.

PS Help on getting larger than thumbnails into posts appreciated.

[DaytonaTim]

My wheel is 1 3/8" from hub mount face to rivets on wood outer face. MotoLita made 16" (used on all originals) and 15" version. I chose a 15 for additional hand to cowl clearance.

Now that is the kind of information I need!!!

Thanks Cato!!

Is your car a kit or the real thing? It looks very true to the original?

Please don't take any offense the the "....kit or real thing....." statement. It is meant as a complement. I cannot see any differences!!!

Thanks again!!

[Cato]

Now that is the kind of information I need!!!

Thanks Cato!!

Is your car a kit or the real thing? It looks very true to the original?

Please don't take any offense the the "....kit or real thing....." statement. It is meant as a complement. I cannot see any differences!!!

Thanks again!!

None taken and thanks for the kind words

It's an ERA replica which I built myself with Toploader and Sideoiler-550HP worth.

Yes it's very close only "better".

[Foxer]

That looks really great. I'd be really excited to see the rim from some fine wood.

You should PM Treehugger Dave about the wood. He puts carved wooden pieces in his builds and is a wood fanatic. He has some "secret supplier" near him but knows about rare and model candidate types of woods.

[Modelmartin]

Nice looking work so far. Check out Norm Veber's (Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland) wood wheels in 1/24th. He duplicates the real wheel more closely by laminating chunks of wood together so when it is turned you can see the different pieces that make up the rim. Wood wheels aren't usually made from one big piece. The grain should run more or less around the wheel rather than across it on two sides.

[DaytonaTim]

Nice looking work so far. Check out Norm Veber's (Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland) wood wheels in 1/24th. He duplicates the real wheel more closely by laminating chunks of wood together so when it is turned you can see the different pieces that make up the rim. Wood wheels aren't usually made from one big piece. The grain should run more or less around the wheel rather than across it on two sides.

Yes, I have seen his work before. As a matter of fact it was his steering wheel that inspired me to try my own version.

The Motto Lita wheel, which I am working on replicating, actually has one solid grain running across the wheel. I have seen the segmented wheels too but this wheel is different. Here is a picture.

[Ferrari-Cobra]

Tim,

The therapy is great as my wife enjoys it when I head down to my space at night for my therapy session!

I have not yet started it (well that's not true, I have started and made it about 3/4 of the way through sanding everything) but I have been gathering tech info for the build in my spare time.

You guys (TDR) should on your web page have a "what's new" section as it is sometimes a surprise when you find something scrolling through the whole list, just my two cents.

Keep up the great work Tim!

David

[GrandpaMcGurk]

David, being I'm involved with TDR...many thanks for the input, we do listen.....I think a "What's New" or "New Products" section on the web site is a great idea!

Edited June 24, 2010 by GrandpaMcGurk

[horsepower]

You might try using either some cherry, or walnut for wood, I've seen both available in the Miniatures section of dollhouse areas in some hobby/craft shops. Just go through the stuff to get the best grain.

[DaytonaTim]

Ok, I think I finally have this thing figured out. I finally found a good source of exotic hardwoods, a ready supply of nickel silver sheet metal, I have the mounting process figured out and I rewrote the CNC files so I would not be chucking anymore parts across my garage!!!

So, I would like to announce that we at TDR have decided to start to offer these wheel kits for sale, I have a couple of ads up on Ebay right now.

I will post up some pictures very soon.

[DaytonaTim]

Well, I finally got around to getting the pics of the steeing wheel posted up to a host. I forgot you have to do that on MCM.

So here they are.

I decided to delete the 6 mounting bolt holes, in the center of the wheel. They should be covered up by the horn button anyway.

Here are the metal parts of the wheel. The notchin the rim section are used to locate the spoked part of the wheel

Here are how the wooden parts will be delevered. The modeler will have to sand the back of the wood, about 1/16", until the rims fall free. I carve the rims in some 3/16" thick wood veneer samples of exotic hardwoods.

[Ferrari-Cobra]

Tim,

Great job!

They look great

David

[GrandpaMcGurk]

Yep......lookin' good Tim. I agree, the 6 smaller holes in the center should be left to the builder as they may not have any use for them or they may want a slightly different pattern.

[Greg Myers]

Very nice. This is what modeling is all about.