Revell 1968 Hemi Dart - They're Finished

[Brett Barrow]

The first time I saw this "new" offering from Revell, the promotion picture shown was from a real car with the black fiberglass front finish, it was in one of the big Model/Toy expos exibits in the "coming soon" category.

Huh, that's interesting, 'cause this is what they had at iHobbyExpo last year:

Note the name change!

I'll have to dig around and see what they had at Toy Fair or some of the other shows(not sure which ones they went to last year)

[Plasticfanatic]

You'd still be money ahead buying one of the new kits to build a Hemi Dart, even if you happen to already have one of the older kits in your stash, as a lot of people do.

Consider: To properly convert one of the older kits, you'd still need to purchase all the aftermarket parts you mentioned, plus the following:

* A correct flat hood with scoop. (Simply grafting a scoop onto the GTS hood, which has power bulges, ain't gonna cut it.)

* A plain taillight panel. (It would take a LOT more than "a little sanding" on the GTS taillight panel to convert it to correct Hemi Dart configuration, especially given the fact it's cast as one piece with the bumper and taillight bezels.

* A correct Dana rear axle.

Plus, I think you have to factor in the cost of that kit you'd ruin by robbing the Hemi from it to drop in your Hemi Dart.

And, on top all that, have fun dealing with that GTS interior pan with the molded-in rear seat and console opening, both of which Revell has helpfully removed in the new release. I mean, the time you'll save in not having to putz around with those is worth something, right?

No, the new kit's not perfect (How many are?), but there's no denying that it will get you significantly closer to an accurate Hemi Dart than any of the older versions would.

Your points are quite valid and again as I said before am glad this kit have been reissued, as you rightly said it will give a lot of fellow modelers the oportunity to build this car/body style in their favorite configuration/drag car with less work than the previus offering and without the "collectors" price tag...but for my very personal taste and opinion it was not what I expected, so in my particular case will renew my previus two Dart conversions.

About the hood and scoop, these are quite easy to modified and make, and it was the first thing I did, the scoop is a heat formed piece if styrene over a formed balsa buck and the side vents where sanded,laminated and filled, the same with the back of the car among other things....but again as you said this areas are now available in the new kit and will save time to the modeler at the work bench.

Is not my intention...nor it will have ANY effect for that matter!!!.....to shootdown this model because some of it's wrong/lack of details, is just that was expecting something more in tune with the real thing in terms of it's particular details.....that's all!!

[Brett Barrow]

For those looking for steelies, these from Drag City Casting might work:

http://www.dragcitycasting.com/index_files/Page3079.html

they don't give an OD, so don't know what tires they fit.

Edited July 17, 2010 by Brett Barrow

[Brett Barrow]

those may work Brett, i'll have to give Ed a call and see. the rear ones are a little too deep but that may be okay if you are building a Dart modified for racing. the "as delivered" cars had some very narrow rear wheels that were very shallow.

Dave

Yeah, I'm thinking the ones in the T-Bolt might work, if they're not completely the wrong style for a Dodge(I'm no steel wheel expert) . It looks like the cars were delivered with fairly narrow slicks too.

But if you believe that this guy has 2 Hemi Darts that were never converted into full-blown racers you'll notice that he's running pretty deep wheels all the way around. Also notice that the cars do not have roll bars, these would have been installed by the racers, not Hurst.

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/42502_1968_dodge_hemi_dart/index.html

[Plasticfanatic]

Oh, I realize that. I considered your post to be an excellent example of constructive criticism, which is (or should be) always welcomed here. You made your points without resorting to bashing or acting as though your opinions are the only valid ones, and that type of behavior is always refreshing.

By the way, my friend, would you please put your real name in your signature line, as per forum rules, unless your real name happens to be "Plasticfanatic," which I seriously doubt is the case? I'd like to know who I'm conversing with!

Thanks for the kind words and I can also say the same about your replays and comments...and that's how we should enjoy this great hobby and community. Also thank you for pointing the rule about the real name signature, an oversight from my part that have been corrected now.

[250 Testa Rossa]

Hey Len.

Great work! I read your article on the Revell Chevy 150 build with Bill Coulter, and I liked it. Very impressive. This build is going to be excellent.

[toplessfury]

Yeah, I'm thinking the ones in the T-Bolt might work, if they're not completely the wrong style for a Dodge(I'm no steel wheel expert) . It looks like the cars were delivered with fairly narrow slicks too.

But if you believe that this guy has 2 Hemi Darts that were never converted into full-blown racers you'll notice that he's running pretty deep wheels all the way around. Also notice that the cars do not have roll bars, these would have been installed by the racers, not Hurst.

http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/42502_1968_dodge_hemi_dart/index.html

one pic on there at the strip looks like the near car has 7" on front and 10" on rear.

[Danno]

This new kit's got the wrong seats, the wrong door panels, the wrong body trim and the wrong wheels.

Well, Bart, this is the "wrong" kit for you. But it works for me. I guess I'm just not THAT discriminating. One man's trash is another man's treasure.

Don't buy it. I will. Difference is what makes the world go 'round, they say.

[spkgibson]

Those Crager wheels look like the ones found in the pro modeler 70 Torino GT,I could be wrong,But they have the detailed center cap as well

Edited July 17, 2010 by spkgibson

[Len Carsner]

Steve, the Cragars Bill is using on his model obviously aren't the same ones that are in the kit. Look at the pics of the kit wheels in the photos in the "New Kit Reviews" section and you can see the obvious differences.

The wheels Bill is using are in fact from the Revell 1967 Charger. The new kits wheels are a new tool wheel but do not have the trademarked cap, most likely due to the old licensing bug.

Edited July 18, 2010 by Len Carsner

[Brett Barrow]

The wheels Bill is using are in fact from the Revell 1967 Charger. The new kits wheels are a new tool wheel but doe not have the trademarked cap, most likely due to the old licensing bug.

Strange, since there are Cragar logos on the decal sheet! Guess they're just planning for the inevitable licensing fall-out. I would rather they made them flat and put the center stamping on the decal sheet anyway, probably look more to scale, but the new wheels have a ring on the cap.

Edited July 18, 2010 by Brett Barrow

[Zoom Zoom]

The post I'm quoting has been deleted by me, but I'm quoting & mentioning it for a very important reason. This section of the forum is "On The Workbench", NOT "New Kit Reviews" or "Rants & Raves". Len & Bill are showing us how to correct those flaws mentioned for those of us that may chose to.

Griping merely for the sake of griping when it's obvious that one hasn't read the original posts isn't productive, & has no place here, especially as this thread isn't for that.

Thank you. You deserve a raise

[Brett Barrow]

Thanks for doing that, Mark, it was getting a little snippy, and Bill and Len don't deserve that.

One point I'd like to make, and this is coming from someone who works with the "modeling public" on a daily basis, it that not everyone has a deep parts box(I don't, for one), or the skills to thermaform a hood scoop(don't have that, either). Folks need to realize that boards like this don't represent an accurate cross-section of modelers, it's really more like the top 10% percentile that post and participate on the internet.

[Danno]

The post I'm quoting has been deleted by me, but I'm quoting & mentioning it for a very important reason. This section of the forum is "On The Workbench", NOT "New Kit Reviews" or "Rants & Raves". Len & Bill are showing us how to correct those flaws mentioned for those of us that may chose to.

Griping merely for the sake of griping when it's obvious that one hasn't read the original posts isn't productive, & has no place here, especially as this thread isn't for that.

Thank you, Moderator Mark! This was not the place or the time (on Len & Bill's dimes) and their work did not need to tainted or diluted by an incessant rant about the kit.

[spkgibson]

Steve, the Cragars Bill is using on his model obviously aren't the same ones that are in the kit. Look at the pics of the kit wheels in the photos in the "New Kit Reviews" section and you can see the obvious differences.

I see the differences now,I'm excited to see the finished products!

[Dr. Cranky]

I'm hooked, keep it going, please.

[gbdolfans]

Hey guys,

What happened to this thread?? It died!!

Len was going to update his build and post pics of both previews being done.

There has been nothing since 7/19?? I am loving this and am going to get several kits and would like to know the ins and outs of the kit.

Edited July 25, 2010 by gbdolfans

[Len Carsner]

Hey guys,

What happened to this thread?? It died!!

Les was going to update his build and post pics of both previews being done.

There has been nothing since 7/19?? I am loving this and am going to get several kits and would like to know the ins and outs of the kit.

Sometimes life just gets in the way of what you really want to do.

Check back later tonight.

[gbdolfans]

Len,Sorry I misspelled your name in my post.I have edited it.Must have gotten into some of Gregg's meds

I will be looking forward to your updates!!!

[Len Carsner]

It's time for another installment of our buildup of the Revell 1968 Hemi Dart. Bill is going to show more of the chassis, rear suspension and a few of the differences between the race and street cars.

We'll have another set ready for you by end of the week that will show you part of the process I'm using to replicate the as-delivered cars.

Let's get to it...

I’ve noticed that Testors Metalizers are a bit touchy especially if anything that’s a bit sticky comes into contact with the treated surface. Masking tape, for instance, will likely lift the Metalizer when tape is applied without a coat of sealer. Try experimenting with different low-tack materials like the Post-it note shown here. Cutting a corresponding opening in the paper sheet the approximate size of the mufflers seems to work well when the need to protect a different shade that’s been sprayed on the tail pipes.

Likewise, I’ve had good luck just folding the Post it note over and using it to mask a treated area in preparation for applying a different shade of Metalizer as shown here. Stainless Steel and Aluminum Plate compliment each other when painting exhaust/muffler systems.

Here’s a quick comparison of the two rear suspensions available in this new Revell Hemi Dart kit. On the left is the street set-up utilizing an 8-3/4 in. rear axle (dome shaped gear cover) used with an automatic transmission on the GTS version of this kit. On the right is the Dana rear axle that’s part of a four-speed drag racing set-up. Notice the difference in overall width in comparing the two. The 8-3/4 in. (wider) is attached to the outside of the rear sub-frame rails. The Dana (narrower) is attached to the topside of the rear sub-frame rails and is intended for four-speed application.

Note here also that the Dana set-up increases the rear ride height and therefore the rear shocks are longer. The 8-3/4 in set-up will bring the rear ride height lower for street application.

In this instance, the chassis is being prepped for the GTS street version which uses the 440 engine, Torquefilte transmission, full length street exhaust system and the wider lower rear suspension featuring the 8-3/4 in rear axle.

Here the chassis has been converted over to the drag set-up. The Hustlin’ Hemi was a Torqueflite HD with an 8-3/4 in. rear end which is reflected here in this layout test fitting.

Before any further paintwork is performed, some tidying up is required. The standard copyright/trademark identification embossing is concentrated in two places, in front to the gas tank and along the driver’s side of the rear floorboards. Using a combination of a hobby knife, sanding stick, sanding needle, a Nick Sander and a Jewelers file, quick work was made of this task.

If you thought maybe Revell messed up and put too many firewalls in the new Hemi Dart kit you’d be mistaken. The firewall on the bottom is intended for the GTS 440 version, identifiable by the inclusion of a locator hole for the steering column. On the topside is the HD firewall. Note that the locator hole for the power brake unit has shifted location to accommodate the massive power plant. Revell has omitted the steering column in this instance but we’ll see if we can squeeze part of one into the final version of the model if for nothing but appearance sake. In 1/25th scale you can only pack so much stuff into a given amount of space.

Since the Hemi Darts used non-power manual brakes, we won’t need the power brake booster unit that would be appropriate for the GTS 440 version. Here a circular saw blade was used to carefully remove the booster from the master cylinder PS unit. Then the Master cylinder unit was attached in the proper spot on the firewall as shown here.

Serious racecars are pretty Spartan rides, sans all the creature comforts to which we’re all accustomed these days. 1968 was no exception. Hurst built these HDs as radio/climate control delete. Remember to remove both the radio and heater/vent controls engraved into the dashboard face panel as shown here. Using a variety of hand tools like those shown here should do the job without damaging the surrounding detail. And yes, I know the heater/vent panel still needs attention.

continued.....

Edited July 27, 2010 by Len Carsner

[Len Carsner]

We thought the design of the plain-jane trunk panel (for this version) to be pretty ingenious. First tape the panel in place to the rear bumper as shown here. Then temporarily attach the new assembly to the rear of the body shell again with masking tape.

Once you’re satisfied with the fit and alignment, apply a bead of super glue to the seam between the deck lid and trunk panel on the inside of the body. Be careful not to flood the area or get the super glue any where near the plated bumper.

Note an error on page 9, step B for the 426 Hemi version. In the lower left panel, part 137 is shown upside down. Turn the rear panel 180 degrees and use the tabs to attach the panel to the rear bumper.

Setting the body aside, some final hand-work is required on the chassis floorboards. The molded in exhaust locators must be removed for the HD drag version. Len suggested a sprue cutter to clip off the major part of the posts. With that accomplished, carefully slice away at the remainder until it looks like the one on top. This was followed up using a combination of hand tools like those shown here until the surface is completely smooth.

To complete the locators’ removal, use Mr. Surfaces to fill in the slight blemishes remaining on the floorboard surface. Note that a double layer of masking tape was applied to the gas tank to protect the surface detail while the hand-work was being performed.

Some have questioned the use of the Cragar S/S wheels found in Revell’s 67 Charger kit. After all, as the rationale was revealed, there are markings on the HD decal sheet for the center cap details. Not so! Shown here for comparison are the HD kit tires with both sets of mag wheels. On the left are the 67 Charger Cragar S/S wheels with the appropriate designations on the center caps. On the right are two examples of the new generic Cragar-like mags from the new Hemi Dart kit. You be the judge of which wheels you use on your build of this new kit.

Here’s a closer look at the two mag wheels in question and another look at the M&H Dragmaster slicks from the Revell HD kit.

You may be the type who wants to thoroughly research the finer points of a model project like we do. We just received a copy of Authenticity Guide 1968 Dart & Barracuda Hemi Super Stock spiral bound book by Jim Schild with Larry Griffith. With just a cursory look through the black and white pages, there appears to be a lot of important information contained here and answers to many questions about these 40 plus year old legendary race cars that will be helpful in building your HD.

Our copy came from Mancini Racing, though this item is available from a number of sources as well.

That's all for now. Check back later in the week when I'll update you on what's going on with my version of the Hemi Dart.

Thanks for your interest,

Bill and Len

[Brett Barrow]

Those wheels look nasty

Why are there large Cragar "sponsor" decals on the decal sheet, but they can't do the wheels right?

I commented I would like to see center cap decals, but I wasn't speculating they were on the kit sheet, just the large Cragar decals.

[Bill Coulter]

Sorry.

In the second line of this caption (third photo in this posting), where it currently reads "automotive", it should read "automatic" (as I've changed it below):

Here’s a quick comparison of the two rear suspensions available in this new Revell Hemi Dart kit. On the left is the street set-up utilizing an 8-3/4 in. rear axle (dome shaped gear cover) used with an AUTOMATIC transmission the GTS version of this kit. On the right is the Dana rear axle that’s part of a four-speed drag racing set-up. Not the difference in overall width in comparing the two. The 8-3/4 in. (wider) is attached to the outside of the rear sub-frame rails. The Dana (narrower) is attached to the topside of the rear sub-frame rails and is intended for four-speed application.

An overactive spell check I guess.

BC

[LVZ2881]

The wheels in the HEmi Dart kit almost look like Appliance wheels (cragar s/s knock offs)..

Dad had a set on his '70 SS396 Chevelle clone in the late 80's.

[Kenny]

I know in advance I'll probably get shouted down here,

The only reason you would get shouted down is that your comments are not appropriate for this particular thread. The kit's flaws have been pointed out elsewhere and it would be more appropriate to discuss them elsewhere (e.g. "New Kit Reviews".) This thread is for showing what can be done with the kit for those that choose to purchase it. I for one want to watch the buildup here and see some of the issues dealt with.

... This section of the forum is "On The Workbench", NOT "New Kit Reviews" or "Rants & Raves". Len & Bill are showing us how to correct those flaws mentioned for those of us that may choose to.