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slotbaker

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24 & 1/25

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    Steve King

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  1. Very Cool, great to see OY2 getting some exposure. I did a 1/24 slot car version a few years ago, from a vac formed body. I caught up with Ernie at Eastern Creek, and he graciously signed it for me.
  2. Gee Mr Moto, sorry I missed your post from Feb last year. This video is a tribute to local racer who passed away, and the first bit is a bit slow, so jump to 6:48 where the engine features. This vehicle was owned and built by local Studebaker dealer, Bert Needham, and Warren Weldon was the main driver through its racing history. Sorry for the hi-jack. Love the Avanti.
  3. As Brian mentioned, the Arii kit is basic kerbside, no engine or suspension detail. It's a good one for the slot car guys. Tamiya also did a re-issue of their slot car body a few years ago, and pop up on ebay occasionally. It's only the body, glass and flat tray interior, so not ideal for a detailed model, unless you scratch build it all.
  4. Phil, has there been any progress on this one? Looking forward to see how she turns out.
  5. If you need to work out other scale dimensions, just divide the full size (1:1) size by the scale. 1/25 scale of 2" = 2 divided by 25 = 0.080" (2.0mm) 1/32 scale of 2" = 2 divided by 32 = 0.063" (1.5mm) etc.
  6. It's a bit hard to tell by the pics, however, the square main side rails look like about 2" (~51mm) 1/25 scale = 0.080" (2.0mm) 1/32 scale = 0.063" (1.5mm) Even if the side rails were 2.5" square, @ 1/25 scale it would be 0.100" (2.5mm) You're probably not going to get the exact size you want, so just go with what's available, and look the part.
  7. As Colby suggests, caustic soda in solution usually removes the plating, so how about masking the rim you want to keep chrome with a 'rubber' mask (eg Parma Fasmask), then carefully brush on the caustic to the area you want to strip. Wash thoroughly to remove the caustic residue. Might pay to test on scrap chrome tree to see how it goes. Caustic is a bit nasty, and is a skin irritant, so best to wear disposable gloves, safety glasses, and do in well ventilated area.
  8. HobbyLink (with a K)in Japan quite often have good specials; https://www.hlj.com/ With HobbyLinc (with a C) in the USA, it can get a bit confusing; http://www.hobbylinc.com Not sure if one pinched the others name or not??? I've bought from both, and both are good suppliers.
  9. There is a survivor racing Cruiser down here fitted with an R4, and it sounds awesome. The motor was acquired and fitted to the cruiser. I can post YT vid if anyone is interested.
  10. Very nice job. Love it. Studebakers are the forgotton about, muscle car. Wish I could get a model of my 63 Lark Cruiser.
  11. Happy New Year Gregg, and I'm happy for you, that your back is on the improve.
  12. Great to see a young guy creating something with his hands. Good job, hope to see plenty more.
  13. After a long absence from model building, retiring, and just about finished a house reno', I'm aiming to build as many cars that Mr Dan Gurney drove, as I can. Dan the Man drove a huge range of cars, so there are many to choose from, and gathering the info for each is also interesting. First one will be Old Yeller as a scratchbuild, then the next will be the one I've got all the info and stuff to build it with. Then repeat!! I'm into Studebakers as well, so the odd Stude might sneek in there too.
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