Ace-Garageguy

"Gone fishing and might never come back so don't wait around" is a sign I'd like to hang on my last two customer jobs, but they'd probably stop paying.

Tomorrow is usually the day when I put off to the next day everything I didn't get done yesterday.

Saying rosin instead of resin can make you seem like a total idiot.

Dies are used for various forms of metal shaping, like stamping and casting.

Model railroaders have used various products and home-brews over the years for metal-blackening/tarnishing too...so there's another rabbit hole to search down. EDIT: I just remembered Rub 'n Buff has a color called "patina" that can be very effective creating weathered brass and copper finishes...

100% in agreement...and you can fix 'em by the side of the road. If your EFI quits, you're going home in the cab of a wrecker. Though I've done a fair number of EFI builds to date, for my own '32, I'm going with a 3X2 carb setup on an old-school SBC double-humper 327...only concession to modernity being roller cam followers because there have been so many somewhat unexplained flat-tappet and cam failures recently....and though I already have the necessary Rochester 2Gs, I'd really like to find an NOS Barry Grant/Demon "Six-Shooter" setup just for the looks. Lotta guys don't like 'em, but as far as my experience goes, they're basically just Holley semi-clones, and work every bit as well.

"Parlor cars" aren't often seen on American railroads anymore, other than high-end tourist trains.

Tails, at least vestigial traces, are still in evidence on some members of homo sapiens.

Poo to the left of them, poo to the right of them, into the valley of poo rode the gallant scooper brigade.

Still intermittently hanging. Sometimes have to close the link and reopen it to get it to work.

This one came in with a buncha other stuff, mostly broken but salvageable. It had some broken steps I'll have to fabricate, as the pieces are long gone, and missing railings, but I'll be upgrading them along with their stanchions anyway, so no biggie. And as far as I'm currently aware, Santa Fe never owned any, but she'll be getting repainted after the repairs/upgrades. It's a Mehano-made HO scale Alco C-415 high-cab switcher. Only 26 were made in reality, so it's a kinda rare beast. Real ones could be had with three different cab heights, and this is the highest...making it even more rare in reality. It was filthy and didn't run, but I was pleasantly surprised to find it has a geared 8-wheel drive system. A Q&D cleaning and light servicing of the electrical pickups and brushes, and she moves again...and gives every indication of being a smooth, strong puller after a complete service. EDIT: Just for reference, this is the same model that has been upgraded with more correct pilots, custom paint, frame-mounted Kadee couplers, almost-scale-correct railings, and numerous other details. Just about as nice looking as a brass one costing well over a thousand bucks.

Scooper-of-poop for my cat I be, and he's probably the only creature on the planet I'd do it for.

Followed the crowd he did, but unfortunately for his sneakers, the crowd was elephants.

I'd go with stitchdup's advice if you want to get it done with the least aggravation. None of the windows in that car are compound-curves, so heat-forming isn't necessary. Single-curved "glass" made from colored clear sheet can be gently curved with your fingers well enough to hold its shape. EDIT: It's fairly straightforward to devise a simple hidden retainer system that will allow the windows to "snap" in place, eliminating all or most of the necessity for using an adhesive...and I'd recommend a PVA "white" glue that dries clear and doesn't fog.

"Plan your work, work your plan" has always been excellent advice.