MikeyB08 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 So a while back I built the 2010 Shelby GT500 by Revell. Needless to say, it didn't turn out. Left finger prints on my paint, chassis to body was all messed up. Was not happy with the final product. Can we say "Rebuild"!?!?! I decided that since this model was "A Failure" to me, I would try my hand at my very first build with scratch building. I guess this would be considered as Kit Bashing although I have no intentions of using parts from another kit, just a lot of aftermarket parts. Please feel free to post tips, tricks, techniques, and/or anything else regarding this build. Since this is my first, I'm not expecting or even pursuing perfection. This is a major learning experience for me and thus far, I have learned quite a bit and now have A LOT more respect for those who scratch build entire cars. **Sorry I did not take Before pictures** Here We Go... Cut the front clip from the body. Also removed the center section of the hood for the motor placement as well as remove the front grill pieces. Body after the cut-away. My first Scratch built Drag Spoiler. Still adding some details. Spoiler Lower. Hide Away Back Windows. Custom Front Lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Nice to see that you didn't give up on that old build. I keep a few of mine around as part donors and they come in handy. I'm working on a '56 Thunderbird and I'm thinking about opening up the front end like you have done. Did you use a saw or the back tip of a razor knife? Keep posting photos, I'm interested in seeing where this goes to. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
am73grand Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 You are off to a great start! I'm gonna keep my eye on this build as I LOVE drag cars!!!! I love that you recycled a build you were not happy with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Dale: I used a sharp blade to score my lines first then used the back of a dull blade since it removes more material. Keep checking the other side of your material. Once you start seeing your score lines coming through, switch back over to a sharp blade to finish it off. Ron: Yea, I really contemplated trashing the model but I figured this would be a good test for me. I'm planning on a scratch built frame/ chassis and a Gibson Motor. Gong to take a while to get all the materials needed but at least this way I can pace myself and plan better. Still trying to learn the scale measuring. Edited April 11, 2013 by MikeyB08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Very Very VERY small update... Need a little bit of insight. This is the motor I'm looking at for this build. 1/24 Big Boss Mountain Motor 815 Ford Pro Stock Resin Kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/271179006267?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I'm about 98% sure this is the motor I want. That being said, what would be the best option to take for my transmission/ drive-train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Dale: I used a sharp blade to score my lines first then used the back of a dull blade since it removes more material. Keep checking the other side of your material. Once you start seeing your score lines coming through, switch back over to a sharp blade to finish it off. Ron: Yea, I really contemplated trashing the model but I figured this would be a good test for me. I'm planning on a scratch built frame/ chassis and a Gibson Motor. Gong to take a while to get all the materials needed but at least this way I can pace myself and plan better. Still trying to learn the scale measuring. Thanks for the blade hints. I need to cut wheel wells, too. Watch out for those Gibson motors, they are big dudes! I built one for my Tbird and it's a tight fit in the Willys chassis I used. When I get back home I'll post a photo comparing a Gibson 815 Mountain Motor to the Ford Boss 429 from the Revell '70 Mustang Mach engine. Gibson lists it's motors as 1:25/1:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Don't know how to edit yet, but that's the one in my Tbird. Found the edit button... That motor comes with a competition clutch less transmission. It looks like this one from Liberty http://www.libertysgears.com Dale Edited April 11, 2013 by ScaleDale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Don't know how to edit yet, but that's the one in my Tbird. Found the edit button... That motor comes with a competition clutch less transmission. It looks like this one from Liberty http://www.libertysgears.com Dale Awesome!! Thanks for sharing that Dale. So to make sure I'm going to right way, by using this particular motor/ transmission, all I would really need to do is my crankshafts and such. Sorry if my questions seem redundant or petty. Def. need to do some more research. I was setting at work this morning looking at the model and just jumped in feet first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Awesome!! Thanks for sharing that Dale. So to make sure I'm going to right way, by using this particular motor/ transmission, all I would really need to do is my crankshafts and such. Sorry if my questions seem redundant or petty. Def. need to do some more research. I was setting at work this morning looking at the model and just jumped in feet first. The Gibson motor will give you everything you need including a tunnel ram intake and split four barrel carbs. It has a dry sump oil system with a three or five stage oil pump and an MSD style ignition. The bell housing and transmission are seperate parts. All in all, there are something like 41 parts to the engine. It includes photo etched pulley faces and a kit to make flexible belts for it. I accidentally cut the manifold down too low and used one from another kit. I had Holly Dominator carbs from another aftermarket outfit and I used them instead of the split carbs. My main gripe is that the casting is a bit rough. That's OK for an engine block but not for the parts that should be chrome shiny like the valve covers and oil tank. I was able to polish the valve covers up well enough to take a nice shine with the Alclad polished aluminum airbrush paint I used, but the oil tank on the front of the engine was too hard to smooth out because it's round. I wound up painting it black. The headers require a lot of sanding and I'm still looking for a replacement set or thinking of scratch building some. The whole thing is resin and requires CA glue (super glue) or epoxy. Lacquer is recommended for paint but I'm not sure why. It may be an old modelers tale. Here's a link to Sonny's Racing Engines. Home of the real Mountain Motors. http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/engines/extreme-pro-stock-892-cu-in-2035-hp-racing-engine Also of interest is John Kasse Racing Engines. Home of the Boss 9 http://www.jonkaaseracingengines.com Edited April 11, 2013 by ScaleDale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 The Gibson motor will give you everything you need including a tunnel ram intake and split four barrel carbs. It has a dry sump oil system with a three or five stage oil pump and an MSD style ignition. The bell housing and transmission are seperate parts. All in all, there are something like 41 parts to the engine. It includes photo etched pulley faces and a kit to make flexible belts for it. I accidentally cut the manifold down too low and used one from another kit. I had Holly Dominator carbs from another aftermarket outfit and I used them instead of the split carbs. My main gripe is that the casting is a bit rough. That's OK for an engine block but not for the parts that should be chrome shiny like the valve covers and oil tank. I was able to polish the valve covers up well enough to take a nice shine with the Alclad polished aluminum airbrush paint I used, but the oil tank on the front of the engine was too hard to smooth out because it's round. I wound up painting it black. The headers require a lot of sanding and I'm still looking for a replacement set or thinking of scratch building some. The whole thing is resin and requires CA glue (super glue) or epoxy. Lacquer is recommended for paint but I'm not sure why. It may be an old modelers tale. Here's a link to Sonny's Racing Engines. Home of the real Mountain Motors.http://www.sonnysracingengines.com/engines/extreme-pro-stock-892-cu-in-2035-hp-racing-engine Also of interest is John Kasse Racing Engines. Home of the Boss 9http:// www.jonkaaseracingengines.com You're the man! Thanks for the great info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) Got my hood set up. Majority of the body is ready to go. Just have to strip the paint and add some putty. All comments & suggestions welcome! I trimmed the excess styrene that you see in front of the scoop and near the back. Didnt have time to take pics before leaving work. Edited April 12, 2013 by MikeyB08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Any reason why you didn't strip the paint to start with? I prefer to work with a clean slate but I also understand the meaning of the word impatience. What do you use for stripping? I like Purple Power from the auto supply store. It takes a few days to work but it won't attack plastic. Even strips chrome. I will be back home tomorrow and will post a comparison photo of that Gibson motor and a Revell Boss 429 so you can see what you are getting into size wise. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 Sounds good. Yea I believe Purple Power is my best bet. Tge reason I didnt strip is due to 2 factors. 1. Impatience! Trying my best to slow down. 2. I figuered I would have already messed the model up beyond repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Sounds good. Yea I believe Purple Power is my best bet. Tge reason I didnt strip is due to 2 factors. 1. Impatience! Trying my best to slow down. 2. I figuered I would have already messed the model up beyond repair. These are usually the top two reasons for not doing anything in the right order. Guilty on multiply counts... Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 Well... Got everything wrapped up as far as the scratch building on the body. Put it in Purple Stuff yesterday morning. Going to let it soak over the weekend and hopefully the paint will come off. If not, looks like Easy-Off will be in the near future. A lot of views and only one person has really chimed in (Thanks Dale). Any other opinions? Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 I need to find a cable to upload those photos for you. Will get to it in the morning. It's not unusual for a lot of people to look and only a few of us to stop and chat. I'm building for a contest in another site and I have over 500 views and something like ten comments. When I finish the car I'm moving over here full time. Are you trying to build a sanctioned type car ala NHRA or the like? If so what class? In NHRA you would drop into Pro Mod with a naturally aspirated engine over 550 cid on gas. I'm not sure if you could run such a large motor in the Altered or Super Gas classes or not. Your body is new enough for Pro Stock but NHRA only has a few blocks that they recognize as legal for Ford in PS and the limit is 500 cubes. I have a rule book if you want me to look anything up. I may be a bit overboard, but I tend to try to build my models like real race cars. What chassis are you going to use? The stock one or a scratch built one? If you use the stock chassis, add styrene rod as a superstructure to reinforce the front end to handle the extra power and torque of the Gibson motor. Go to StacyDavid.com (the guy from Gearz) and find the video clips from his "v8 Interceptor" build. He put a John Kasse 550 Boss 9 in an old beat up Cougar and did a lot of extensive reworking to the chassis to handle the power of the new engine. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooltas Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 good start on a outlaw10inch class car look at the web site www. yellowbullit.com theres tons of prostreet builts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Nice start on the lemonade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 A Ross Gibson 815 goes head to head with a Boss 429 from the Revell '70 Mach I Mustang 1/24 The 815 is wearing a ram manifold and Holly Dominator carb setup from Competition Resins and the transmission blanket and shifter are scratch built. The blanket is Duct tape and the wiring is something from the craft store called Memory Thread. I still need to do the belts. If you use this motor, plan for the engine mounts ahead of time. You need to scratch build them and the fit in any chassis is very tight. The front plate gives some sort of flange to work with, but not much. The bell housing is a seperate piece, so the best thing to do is to build the rear mount before you put that on and install it between the motor and the bell housing. Which I neglected to do. If you do an image search on "Pro Mod Engine Bays" or Pro Mod Paint Jobs" you will find links to threads in the above mentioned Yellow Bullet forums. Have fun. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Oh man thats great!!! Thanks Dale. Thanks tooltas for the link. Lemonade!! Thats great! Thanks Ace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeyB08 Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Got some paint down. Should've grabbed pictures after being stripped... But I didn't. I used Rust-Oleum Flat Black for my base (2 coats). Then used Rust-Oleum Gloss Double Coverage Gloss Black (3 coats). I'm headed in one of two ways. 1. Looking for some Drag Decals that I like on FeeBay. 2. Making my own decals. Here's the paint. Changed My Hood Setup: As of right now, the car is named "NiteMare". I'm going to be drawing out my designs later as far as decals to get some input. However, this build will be put on the back burner as I need to finish getting my supplies (styrene, motor, spare parts, wheels, etc.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.