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Trying to find a new and faster way to dry paint ?


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Ok, here is it is. I. Am trying to find a quicker way to dry my paint on my car parts. I was rolling past the nail salon in wally World and saw this thing and a light bulb in my head went off. These people where sticking there hands in a lighted oven. This thing is a U/V light nail dryer. Can't we use these? I mean we do use those nail polishes out there. 1:1 scale paint shops us lights to cure our daily drivers.? So does anyone have any knowledge in this field ?

Here is a link to one on amazon with a slide out tray one, sweet. Even our parts are easily put in and removed.if the link doesn't work type in search.... -uv nail dryer-

http://www.amazon.com/Salon-Edge-Acrylic-Shellac-CURING/dp/B006QO4BRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374580831&sr=8-2&keywords=uv+light+for+nails

Your help would be especially and gratefully appreciated.

DIGGER aka Jason

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First, do a search on Acrylic Gel Shellac, you will quickly see that it's not the same as nail polish we use for painting models.

Second, how would you fit a body in that thing?

Third, nail polish doesn't dry fast enough?

Edited by Psychographic
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The best, easiest, and cheapest way to speed up the drying process is to put the painted parts into a food dehydrator. You can find a dehydrator for around $30 or so. No need to get more complicated than that, a dehydrator works great.


Way too small to be of use to a model builder. It looks like you couldn't fit a body in there.

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Count me in as a dehydrator-devotee.

I have three.

One is the common round job with removable rings (the one in Don Banes' post above). Works for everything 1/24-1/25 scale, including bodies.

For medium-sized jobs (lots of bodies, chassis, frames at once, or trucks, etc.), I use the kitchen oven. No heat, just turn on the light bulb inside the oven. Believe it or not, the oven light alone generates enough wattage to raise the internal temperature to around 95-100 degrees. Safety Tip: When I'm using the oven for drying, I leave a paint can on the stove top. That's our universal signal to not pre-heat the oven for a pizza or cook anything on the stove top until I get the model stuff out.

For larger jobs, I have the Sonoran Desert outside my casa/shopa. ^_^

All three work great for their respective assignments!

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Count me in as a dehydrator-devotee.

I have three.

One is the common round job with removable rings (the one in Don Banes' post above). Works for everything 1/24-1/25 scale, including bodies.

For medium-sized jobs (lots of bodies, chassis, frames at once, or trucks, etc.), I use the kitchen oven. No heat, just turn on the light bulb inside the oven. Believe it or not, the oven light alone generates enough wattage to raise the internal temperature to around 95-100 degrees. Safety Tip: When I'm using the oven for drying, I leave a paint can on the stove top. That's our universal signal to not pre-heat the oven for a pizza or cook anything on the stove top until I get the model stuff out.

For larger jobs, I have the Sonoran Desert outside my casa/shopa. ^_^

All three work great for their respective assignments!

That doesn't mean you can use an Easy-Bake oven that only uses a light bulb. I had a secretary at the office who actually burned and charred a chocolate cake in one.

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I was thinking about UV-cured paint for model car bodies the other day when reading the recent urethane thread. UV-cured ink has been around in the screen-printing biz for years now and the UV-cured nail polishes are starting to be a common thing. A small UV oven would be simple to build and not that expensive but the lack of proper paints is a problem. It's definitely something that could be adapted to modeling.

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What about either of these 2, fellas?

Now I know what they do but it doesn't look like you can fit a car ( model ) body within each level or any level. It doesn't look like each level is tall enough??

What you do is take one or two of the layers and you cut the bottoms out, leaving only the outer "ring." Now you can stack the layers, but you have a deeper (taller) section to fit larger parts.

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The white dehydrators have a fairly flexible plastic, making it easy to cut the centers from the outer ring with a sprue cutter. I'm thinking the trays in the clear plastic dehydrators could be a bit brittle.

BTW, I keep the centers. You'd be surprised how handy they are when trimmed to a smaller diameter.

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The white dehydrators have a fairly flexible plastic, making it easy to cut the centers from the outer ring with a sprue cutter. I'm thinking the trays in the clear plastic dehydrators could be a bit brittle.

They're like the clear plastic windows in model kits. I used a cutting disk in my Dremel to cut them out.

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If you don't like the round dehydrator, get the square one. Maybe add some extra rings for more height.

81kB4TkRKvL._SL1500_.jpg

The NESCO ones are the best ones around...The have a nice temp adjust knob...

Simón P. Rivera Torres

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What you do is take one or two of the layers and you cut the bottoms out, leaving only the outer "ring." Now you can stack the layers, but you have a deeper (taller) section to fit larger parts.

Oh ok... Easy enough to do. So what is the ideal temperature setting ( in Celcius?) & for how long?? ( mainly acrylic basecoats/ urethane )

Cliff

Edited by CJ1971
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