vc273 Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) Hi wayne will definitley be in on this one. Have a few in mind that i have been mocking up so hopefully one of these will be okay. Just let me know if any dont meet the criteria. Also are we building them as show cars hidden wiring and the like or street cars? Cheers Edited January 19, 2013 by vc273 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 if i may, i tend to lean towards 2 carbs and the oval 2 carb air cleaner found in the 427 kits for the street. i like your build, its looking great. I agree with Al. Your engine needs to be street "friendly", meaning it needs to be an engine that can be driven on a regular/semi regular basis. If you want to keep the blower, get rid of the injectors and replace them with carburetors. You also need to add a water pump for cooling and an alternator for charging your battery/batteries. Otherwise, it's only going to be good for a quarter mile at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubbs Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 I agree with Al. Your engine needs to be street "friendly", meaning it needs to be an engine that can be driven on a regular/semi regular basis. If you want to keep the blower, get rid of the injectors and replace them with carburetors. You also need to add a water pump for cooling and an alternator for charging your battery/batteries. Otherwise, it's only going to be good for a quarter mile at a time. thanks Roger, i missed that. so, where does the alternator hook up, you say? try this site..... http://www.bigalstoybox.com/cabinet.htm this site is a MUST for anyone building a blower motor, hope to get my 1:1 blower fron these guys..... the link should take you to a page with complete blowers, the pully sitting in front of the blower is the lower pulley, there is a groove in the back of the pulley that connects the crank to the water pump by a belt. i will usually use the stock pulleys in the normal spot and then glue the blower pulley to the crank pulley. you may have to extend the neck of the blower a little, but you can do that with some sort of chrome round spru from your parts box. someone may have a better way..... anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 (edited) thanks Roger, i missed that. so, where does the alternator hook up, you say? try this site..... http://www.bigalstoybox.com/cabinet.htm this site is a MUST for anyone building a blower motor, hope to get my 1:1 blower fron these guys..... the link should take you to a page with complete blowers, the pully sitting in front of the blower is the lower pulley, there is a groove in the back of the pulley that connects the crank to the water pump by a belt. i will usually use the stock pulleys in the normal spot and then glue the blower pulley to the crank pulley. you may have to extend the neck of the blower a little, but you can do that with some sort of chrome round spru from your parts box. someone may have a better way..... anyone? Easy. The groove behind the blower pulley you mentioned will run to the water pump and the alternator. Also, you'll notice that the crank pulleys in the link/photos have two grooves in the rear. One is for the water pump and alternator. The other is for the power steering pump. Edited January 10, 2013 by plowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1320wayne Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) Steve, you obviously have quite a few pro street subjects to choose from and are worthy of jumping in here. However, remember the 25% rule in regards to whichever subject you choose to go with. Or multiple builds for that matter. If you have something mocked up but haven't gone much further than that then you are good to go. Anything that already has a significant amount of paint and/or engine detailing, such as wiring and plumbing is probably too far along. Edited January 11, 2013 by 1320wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 if i may, i tend to lean towards 2 carbs and the oval 2 carb air cleaner found in the 427 kits for the street. i like your build, its looking great. ill have to see if i can replace the injection and run the cars WHILE keeping the blower I agree with Al. Your engine needs to be street "friendly", meaning it needs to be an engine that can be driven on a regular/semi regular basis. If you want to keep the blower, get rid of the injectors and replace them with carburetors. You also need to add a water pump for cooling and an alternator for charging your battery/batteries. Otherwise, it's only going to be good for a quarter mile at a time. ill have to see what i can come up with on this i may run a electric water pump but that does NOT releave me of the need of an alternator on a more exciting note, the rear end came in today, thanks to Roadhawg now i can start building the tubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnuzBox Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 ill have to see if i can replace the injection and run the cars WHILE keeping the blower ill have to see what i can come up with on this i may run a electric water pump but that does NOT releave me of the need of an alternator on a more exciting note, the rear end came in today, thanks to Roadhawg now i can start building the tubs You could run the Alt off the rear pinion and place battery in the trunk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vc273 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) Just an idea why not do a bit of hot rodding and mount the alternator to the diff housing and run the belt off the tail-shaft, have seen this on a few 1:1 cars in the past and will probably use the set up if i go blower route using the set-up from a dodge nascar truck and modifying it to accept an alternator. Keeps the engine bay nice and tidy and is still streetable. Cheers Edited January 11, 2013 by vc273 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 i may run a electric water pump but that does NOT releave me of the need of an alternator Another option- I've seen a few 1:1 cars where the alt is mounted to the rear axle pinion snout and run off the driveshaft. Yes, this means it is not charging when the car isn't in motion, but it seems to work well enough- I've never heard of any significant charging problems with such a setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 those all sound like great ideas ive looked at the blower set up and am not sure if i am willing to convert to carbs or just get a stand alone computer with different tunes for street or strip (for those of you who know VWs, there is a tuner out there who will install different programs on the ECU which you can acces through the cruise controll controll) in the mean time i finally started the rear end this was my first time doing this and i free handed every thing (and it shows) no pics but i got the frame build aswell once the glue dries i will take a file too it and try to smoothen it out some as usual i got carries away and went with a tub that will not allow the back seat to be installed i havent done the sheet metal yet so i might just patch it and go with a smaller tub decisions decisions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vc273 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) Hi guys going to start on my 65 coronet using the dodge/plymouth pro street chassis just cant remember which one. It started off as a polar lights painted kit that has the paint stripped off and was quite surprised how good the body is hardly any clean up at all. The chassis is a real nice fit but couldn't modify the original interior enough to get it to fit so will have to be a 2 seater, hope this is within the rules. Engine bay wise the pro street set up fits like it was meant for it as you can see by the pics just need to remove the corner tabs and she will fit like a glove. May use this supercharged and efi 426 hemi to keep it streetable or may use the DOHC 426 hemi as you don't see to many of these around. Will open up the trunk and if i am game enough may open up the doors. Not sure if i will keep the rim combo will know when she is in paint, maybe orange or possibly a metallic green i have used before that looks sweet. Cheers and thanks for looking. Edited January 19, 2013 by vc273 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAT-T Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 LOOKS COOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubbs Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 ill have to see if i can replace the injection and run the cars WHILE keeping the blower ill have to see what i can come up with on this i may run a electric water pump but that does NOT releave me of the need of an alternator on a more exciting note, the rear end came in today, thanks to Roadhawg now i can start building the tubs dont jump to conclusions too fast, (like i did), when (if the wife ok's it) i get my nice 8:71 to put on my 440, i would love to run injection but that is another $3500. injected blowers are real nice and run a heck of alot better than carbed blowers. i think i would just go with a more modern type blower hat than the old crower type. if you need anything for this, feel free to ask, i have lots of stuff...... just have to throw it in an envelope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubbs Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Hi guys going to start on my 65 coronet using the dodge/plymouth pro street chassis just cant remember which one. It started off as a lindberg painted kit that has the paint stripped off and was quite surprised how good the body is hardly any clean up at all. The chassis is a real nice fit but couldnt modify the original interior enough to get it to fit so will have to be a 2 seater, hope this is within the rules. Engine bay wise the pro street set up fits like it was meant for it as you can see by the pics just need to remove the corner tabs and she will fit like a glove. May use this supercharged and efi 426 hemi to keep it streetable or may use the twin overhead cammed 426 hemi as you dont see to many of these around. Will open up the trunk and if i am game enough may open up the doors. Not sure if i will keep the rim combo will know when she is in paint, maybe orange or possibly a metallic green i have used before the looks sweet. Cheers and thanks for looking. love this build. isnt this a polar lights kit though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vc273 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Yes Al it is the polar lights kit just when i was writing my post i had the ramchargers kit sitting in front of me and automatically wrote lindberg and didnt even pick it up when i read it before posting. Thanks for letting me know will correct it now. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubbs Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 i did a little work to mine last night (surprise!!! ) getting a cage done, of course instead of the nice 6 point, its ending up being a who knows how many points!! and i have to fab up a fuel cell now because the one i want to use is too wide and the cage bars co right over it. i will attack the trans tunnel this weekend. had plans to run a lenco in this, but it being a street car, i will go with a 4 speed instead. will post up pictures soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vc273 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) Hi guys just want to pick your brains what type of putty do you recommend and what do you use to strip automotive paint from older builds as i have only used mr muscle oven cleaner to remove paint. Cheers Edited January 11, 2013 by vc273 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubbs Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) Hi guys just want to pick your brains what type of putty do you recommend and what do you use to strip automotive paint from older builds as i have only used mr muscle oven cleaner to remove paint. Cheers it depends on what is lying on the bench..... i really dont get too picky, i try to use automotive spot putty cause it does not shrink. i have squadron white putty at the moment. as far as stripping automotive paint, i use castrol super chean, it may go by another name, i am not sure, been a long time since i have bought any. by the way, i will have to find out exactly where but i have family on my wifes side living in Australia...... just thought you would want to know that..... Edited January 15, 2013 by tubbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diymirage Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 dont jump to conclusions too fast, (like i did), when (if the wife ok's it) i get my nice 8:71 to put on my 440, i would love to run injection but that is another $3500. injected blowers are real nice and run a heck of alot better than carbed blowers. i think i would just go with a more modern type blower hat than the old crower type. if you need anything for this, feel free to ask, i have lots of stuff...... just have to throw it in an envelope. thanks, ill keep you in mind for now im trying to get the body right i painted it last night and it looks like poo-pooh here are some shots before i tossed her in the purple pond (which in all reality is a big pickle jar filled with brake fluid) one a side note, here is the frame section i build still need to clean it up but the idea is there i still need to decide on tires on the left are the mickey thompson sportsmans that i had origenally planned but on the right are the firestones that came with my care-package i got from Roadhawg the fire stones didnt fit in the body the way it sits right now but considering the body is now in the pond i might have a chance to flare them a bit afterall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1320wayne Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Here is what I have gotten accomplished so far. I have been playing with the hood design and even though this is what I was looking for I'm not happy with the overall profile. I still have more work to do to get it where I want it. I am going to drop the sides of the cowl scoop section down as they came out too high. The sides will also go back further towards the windshield area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Wayne, I think it would look better with just the resin scoop and get rid of the cowl scoop surrounding it. Just my two cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Question- anyone know of a treaded tire about the same height and width as the slicks in the AMT '66 Nova Pro Street? Everything I have (AMT Mickey Thompson and Revell Firestone) are way to big to fit without cutting the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Mike Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Chuck, the Micky Thompsons I have are a smaller profile with treads, but I have no idea where Sam got them from. I'll pick his brain and let you know when I find out! Wayne, that looks wicked! I like the scoop myself, bringing it back to the windshield would only make it look better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Question- anyone know of a treaded tire about the same height and width as the slicks in the AMT '66 Nova Pro Street? Everything I have (AMT Mickey Thompson and Revell Firestone) are way to big to fit without cutting the chassis. Yep! The AMT Pro Sreet '68 Road Runner has 'em. They have a plain sidewall,but the tread looks like the M/T Sportsmans. That's what's on the rear of my Duster. I can get the exact dimensions of them if you need. There had to be other AMT kits that had them. I'm thinking the pro street '69 GTX had them also. I think I may have that kit in the stash. I'll have to check and see. An easier to find kit would be the pro street '41 Willys by Revell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HNTR Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 Just found this build. Would it be alright if I was to join this using a Lincoln lsc kit??? Here are some pics of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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