Amp3r3z Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 My base is boyds pearl orange(enamel) and I cleared with rustoleum clear enamel, why did it wrinkle up on me??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 How long did you let it gas out, maybe it wasn't long enough, thats the problem with enamel it takes forever to gas out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Looks like paint incompatibility to me. Are you sure the Rustoleum is a true enamel? More than likely it's an acryiic enamel, and it can almost always be a disaster to put a "hot" paint such as acrylic enamel, or lacquer over a regular enamel. I'm afraid you're going to have to strip that one clean, and start over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amp3r3z Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Heres the clear I used! I waited like 8 hours I think and I think mayb I put alot on Im kinda use to airbrushing... I thought ild spray it to avoid accidents lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amp3r3z Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Its being striped now jus dnt wana repeat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 My guess is you just applied the clear too soon. If I use enamal I let it dry for a few days. What was the weather like when you sprayed ? Did you use light coats ? How long before coats ? As someone said, this one will need to be stripped. Good luck. It sucks starting over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillyb1 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Stay away from that clear. It is very hot and you are only going to be disappointed. Put it away for use on a non-model project. Rustoleum does make a lacquer clear that is outstanding and that is compatible with hobby paints, even enamels if you must use them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amp3r3z Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Do u guys recomend a good clear I could use on enamel?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Do u guys recomend a good clear I could use on enamel?? Testors clear topcoat ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scampy72 Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 i had the same problem. after reading the spray can of the color it said to let it sit three days before clearing or wrinkling may occur. thats probably youre problem. make sure you read the cans before spraying cause they can all be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Do u guys recomend a good clear I could use on enamel?? Testors clear topcoat ! If Boyds / Testors color...use what the old man says...I heard if you cut it 2 parts clear to1 part CHEEP lacquer thinner, the gloss can blind the common man...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickRollerLT1 Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Its being striped now jus dnt wana repeat. The problem here is the Rustoluem clear, while enamal based, contains a different formula that uses hotter and stronger cemicals. The color you said you applied was Testors colors by Boyds enamal, which is a hobby grade paint for model styrene use and is cemicaly "softer". So "hotter, over "softer" can lead to major issues that can be avoided with the right painting steps. If you use a hobby-grade paint as a primer/color coat, then the color must be within the same formula/grade. EG: Testors over Testors, Tamiya over tamiya, etc. But if you use a "hotter" paint over the "softer" paint, like Rustoluem, Krylon, Colorplace, Valspar & so on. THIS IS A NO-NO!! However, you can apply say, the hotter paint then the softer one over it and you'll get good resolts (but remember about what paint types that can be applied over one another, such as enamal, acrylic, lacquer, the like) Heres one more hint, on the next primed (or reprimed) body, apply a coat of the hotter grade primer of your choise that wont craze the plastic, then hit it with the color coat (ether hobby or hotter), then the hobby paint of your choice and the clear, but THAT MUST match up with the brand of the hobby paint or formula grade or you'll get problems again. Or, you can go to your local supermarket or department store and in the cleaning sections, pick up a bottle o' some Pledge floor wax with future shine (AKA, the famous future everyone uses on here). This stuff is acrylic based, but can be applied almost over anything and every surface. And can be applied from the bottle with a cotton ball, q-tip, brush, or as some people do it, with an airbrush at high PSI or whatever works for you. The stuff is watery, but with quick even coats it can get the job done. One thing you must watch out for when using Future, SPIDER CRACKS on the surface! This happens when the paint underneath is not fully cured enough (usealy happens with testors and most enamals; must be cured for almost 3 weeks before applying future), or when the uncoated surface is greasy or contains other containminates to form a reaction with the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcandela Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Do u guys recomend a good clear I could use on enamel?? Duplicolor, works with anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadillacPat Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Rustoleum is for lawn furniture. If you want to ClearCoat without ever worrying about ill effects to underlying layers of any brand, use a good 2 part Urethane Clear. CadillacPat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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