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I found these sheets in a pile of reference pictures and paperwork and thought it might help anyone who likes to wire their model engines in the correct firing order. Enjoy...

http://images51.fotki.com/v303/photos/9/3018309/12963096/001738x1024-th.jpg

http://images16.fotki.com/v388/photos/9/3018309/12963096/002741x1024-th.jpg

Sorry.... they're way too small to see. I've got to figure out how to enlarge them.

Edited by Ramfins59
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thanks for the info that a few of us will enjoy for our own reasons. ;)

although a few of the "free form" builders may think about calling you a "rivet counter" now, I personally think that it isn't really that hard to build it like the real ones if you're going to add in that particular detail to start with.

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What good does it do to wire a model car engine in the correct firing order? A lot of lookers don't know the correct firing order and the model car WON'T start anyway.

True enough, but it helps to avoid the "hair-part" look a lot of models end up with, having 4 wires, all the same length, on each side of the distributor. And it's just another detail that SOME folks like to get right in the pursuit of realism. Kinda like throttle-return springs that don't actually DO anything.

For every additional detail, or level of detail, you could conceivably say "what good does it do?" What good does it do to put plug wires on a model, at all? For that matter, what good does it do to even put an engine in a model? It won't run anyway. And so, some folks are content to build 'curbsides" with no internal guts.

Each builder has his own definition of 'enough accuracy'.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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What good does it do to wire a model car engine in the correct firing order? A lot of lookers don't know the correct firing order and the model car WON'T start anyway.

But if it does start it will backfire through the carb and that's not good. :lol:

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probly won't start anyway, plastic timing chains just aren't beefy enough to turn the plastic bump-sticks without break-in lube. ;)

the piston return springs would have to be replaced immediately. :)

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The only reason I do close to correct firing order is to avoid the hair part syndrome...it looks better if it's close to correct.

But it doesn't matter how you do as the firing order on the distributor depends on how it's put in and where the distributor arm points when the number 1 cylinder is at TDC...that's allways 1 regardless of what the diagrams say and you have to start there.

Edited by Force
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