1/20th Wizard Van

[Custom Hearse]

This was an experimental 2 week build. I bought 3 different 1/20th scale vans, and i built this one to see what problems I might encounter when I build a custom version. Here's the pics....

The woodwork in the interior was done with a wood stain paint marker. I think it works and looks great!

Here's the woodstain paint pen I used.

This van is by no means a contest winner, it was built to see what problems I might encounter.

Thanks for looking.

[Smart-Resins]

Very cool! Now for that pen, that is on plastic? Looks great! I will have to find one and try it out. I am always getting upset at plastic wood, cutting it out and creating a real pain in the rump to put in real wood! Using venner is one thing over top of plastic, but doing other things in balsa wood is not always the easiest thing! if one can get realistic or almost realistic looking wood from one of those, then it is certainly worth checking out! Jody

[Custom Hearse]

Very cool! Now for that pen, that is on plastic? Looks great! I will have to find one and try it out. I am always getting upset at plastic wood, cutting it out and creating a real pain in the rump to put in real wood! Using venner is one thing over top of plastic, but doing other things in balsa wood is not always the easiest thing! if one can get realistic or almost realistic looking wood from one of those, then it is certainly worth checking out! Jody

There are 4 or 5 different stain colors. If the plastic is white, you can paint the stain on without using a primer. The stain doesn't harm plastic. If the plastic is not white, you can use flat white on it, and then paint it with the stain pen. here are two partitions with different stain colors on them. The one on the left was painted on plastic with no primer....

They dry very glossy. I haven't tried dullcoating to see if the shine can be knocked down.

Thanks for the compliment!

[Smart-Resins]

I like that dark color! Being normal stain would never dry on plastic, I presume these are nothing more then colored markers, but they seam to work great according to your pics! Now the next question is baing able to clear over them for a high poly shine appearance would be a question. IWhat base are these markers like enamel or laquar or what? Thanks. Now I have to go find me a nice dark color. That looks great!

[Foxer]

That wood looks fantastic! I have a dash needing some wood so gonna have to find those pens.

[Custom Hearse]

I like that dark color! Being normal stain would never dry on plastic, I presume these are nothing more then colored markers, but they seam to work great according to your pics! Now the next question is baing able to clear over them for a high poly shine appearance would be a question. IWhat base are these markers like enamel or laquar or what? Thanks. Now I have to go find me a nice dark color. That looks great!

I guarantee you won't have to glosscoat these stains. I'm guessing it's polyurethane, as Dave points out, because it takes about 2 to 3 days for it to dry.

Foxer: make sure you use a white base coat if the plastic isn't white.

Thanks Dave! Although I'd have to say this wasn't allot of fun. I definitely won't be using the kit hinges next time around! They leave allot to be desired....

[Smart-Resins]

if it is indeed oil based, then it really does not completely dries! Just to the touch as it vaporizes on the surface, sealing off the lower levels where they can not vaporize, thats why it takes a couple of days. You more then likely noted a difference between primered plastic and not primered plastic as it would have a better bite on the primer as it is textured and allows some penetration. Thanks. jody

[Custom Hearse]

if it is indeed oil based, then it really does not completely dries! Just to the touch as it vaporizes on the surface, sealing off the lower levels where they can not vaporize, thats why it takes a couple of days. You more then likely noted a difference between primered plastic and not primered plastic as it would have a better bite on the primer as it is textured and allows some penetration. Thanks. jody

I don't think it is oil based, and it does dry completely.

[Smart-Resins]

The tests to see if it does actually dry completely if it is the same stuff as regular stain, would be first, the thumb nail test. Rub your thumbnail on it. If you leave a mark, it is only dry one the surface. The second is a test of multiple things. It could mean not dry, notadhering or penetrating the item, or the wrong formula on top of another. Take a knife to it. if it will peel off, then its not coated well. If it is dried completly, then it certainly is not oil based stain! Thats for sure. I will have to google these for sure so I know what they are. Again, even if it is, as long as it is cured enough to be sturdy to the touch, it would certainly be good enough for a shelf model at any rate, wich is all I seem to do, well when I do finish one that is!LOL. I do appreciate the tip and will have to investigate it and do some tests of my own! I wonder why we did not have these in the cainet shop. We had those wax crayons instead for fixing up chipped finishes. Primarily special finishes with glazing ect. on them. Thanks. jody

[84vanagon]

Great to see one of those built!

Nice job too! :DB)

I have been gathering parts for a while, and have

enough to build two stockers and two customs between

the pile of parts. My last evil-bay score was a "parts box"

Ironsides Econoline that I bought just for the stock grille.

After doing a parts check I found that 95% of the Ironsides

parts were there!

Way back in '69 I built (?) one but it was pretty taxing

for a 10 yr. old.

Were there any major assembly problems, other than

the "given" fiddly bits due to the age and parts count?

I know It wouldn't be a big seller, but It would be cool

if Round 2 would consider any Econoline for a re-release,

especially if they would include the stock grille/bumper.

[Custom Hearse]

Great to see one of those built!

Nice job too! :DB)

I have been gathering parts for a while, and have

enough to build two stockers and two customs between

the pile of parts. My last evil-bay score was a "parts box"

Ironsides Econoline that I bought just for the stock grille.

After doing a parts check I found that 95% of the Ironsides

parts were there!

Way back in '69 I built (?) one but it was pretty taxing

for a 10 yr. old.

Were there any major assembly problems, other than

the "given" fiddly bits due to the age and parts count?

I know It wouldn't be a big seller, but It would be cool

if Round 2 would consider any Econoline for a re-release,

especially if they would include the stock grille/bumper.

Thanks Don!

The worst part was the doors. The hinges are really junk, and when i customize the Supervan kit, I'm gonna build my own hinges for it (I'll have too, I also cut open the front doors and hood). Everything else was pretty easy to build. The floorboard is warped on this van, but the other 2 kits are flat as they should be.

[84vanagon]

Thanks Marshall!

I do remember the doors the doors and

the working I beams on the original being a PITA.

The later versions had the re-tooled static front

suspension (better in this instance IMHO).

Have you been on the "Econoline Message Board"?

http://econolines.ipbhost.com/

It's a cool site dedicated to the second-gen 68-74

Econolines. Neat stuff there!

PLEASE keep us posted on your "serious" build!!!!

What you did on your "quickie" turned out great.

Thanks, Don.

Edited May 21, 2009 by 84vanagon

[Custom Hearse]

Thanks for the link Don, and thanks for the compliment. I will let you know when i get stared on the build of the Supervan.

Thanks again!