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'68 Firebird 400


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Hi everyone, here's my latest build, an OOB Revell kit that builds up quite nicely. When I first bought the paint, the lid was almost dead on for Verdoro Green, but it came out like this. No more Plasti-Kote rattlecans for me! I still like the color and would like to use it on a street rod or something. I posted this on another board I frequent and it kinda went over like a lead balloon. I figured this is a more laid back place and I might get a better response.

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Hi Casey!

Like Mark said, it's a very nice and clean build, but it needs to be clearcoated to give it that extra SIZZLE! :D

Y'know that's another one of those kits that I never seem to see show up at various shows. It's a very nice and quite accurate kit, and a lot can be done to it.

Keep in touch Casey!

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Thanks Guys. I don't mind constructive criticism at all. As for the clear coat conundrum, this car DOES have clear on it. 3 or 4 coats, I can't remember exactly. It's just that, the paint can lid looks Just like Verdoro green, but it came out like this. The paint actually has a very heavy flake in it, and even with the clear, it has a dull, lumpy appearance in the photos. I have an airbrush, but my workbench is only operating at about 60%, alot of my stuff is packed away while we're doing work in the cellar. It looks quite good in person. The only other paint problem I had was a few fisheyes developed in the pass. side of the hood. I don't have any CSC on hand at the moment, the hood actually needs stripped and repainted. Actually, could anyone give me ideas on what to look for in a good polishing kit? Maybe I should try that when I paint the hood next time, maybe to reduce the lumpy look.

Heres what the lid looks like, nothing like whats in the can :D .

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Casey,

I'm not sure what kind of airbrush you're using.......I use a Badger Crescendo, which is set about 20 psi or so. It could be the pressure on your airbrush is set too high causing the paint to "dry" as it hits the plastic. This is what may be causing the mottled/lumpy/orange peeled look.

When I paint metallics particularly, I try to spray in a criss-cross pattern-----which helps to even out the flakes and also to avoid "zebra striping". I really don't recommend polishing metallics per se.............it's best to lightly rub out any dusties when you're finished color coating and the paint is dry, and then to clearcoat. You would then rub out the clearcoat as normal.

As far as a polishing kit, I use Detail Master pretty much exclusively, it's a lot of work, but very much worth it in the end! :D

Here's link to Detail Master to check it out........

http://detailmaster.com/

If you need any help with the polishing kit............give us a shout! :D

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To further add Casey about spraying metallics................Looking at your photos closer, it looks as though the color is correct, what happens when your spraying metallics is that (depending on the flake size) the flakes want to settle down to the bottom of the jar. Your airbrush pickup tube is picking up a lot of the metallics flakes and not enough of the toner which lends to the color not being quite what's shown. I could be wrong..........just an educated guess on my part! :D

It would be a good idea when you're spraying metallics particularly is to constantly swill the airbrush jar around every couple minutes or so.........this will keep the flakes suspended in the toner and not settle to the bottom of the jar where your pickup tube is located.

Hope all this wasn't information overload! :D

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I have to apologize to you guys. Through all my yammering :oops: I should have made it more clear that this car was not painted with an airbrush. It's straight from the rattecan. Normally I don't have this problem with metallics, but this is just how this one came out. You'd think I'd have learned to stick to duplicolor by now. Because of the work in the basement, the airbrush and compesor are packed away and I can't use them. Anyway, thanks Bill, for your airbrush tips. At least I can put them to use someday.

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