Matt Bacon

Take the bottom lip off the air dam and leave off the wheel arch extensions and you're well on your way to a Super Samuri, with rather less effort than some... 😜 best, M.

I haven't stopped working on this, but progress was slowed down by building a big Lego motorbike with the family... The cockpit is pretty much complete, though I wont be finally fixing the seats and steering wheel until the final assembly stage. I'm quite pleased with the AC badge on the wheel! The box of the kit that I bought had wire wheels with two-ear knock-off hubs. When I looked at them closely, they were AC branded, and Revell had moulded tiny but exquisite badges on the hubs. I sliced them off very carefully with a razor saw and one is now the steering wheel boss. You'll see the other two below, replacing the Cobra badges on the body... Finished the final details on the engine. Now I need some air filter decals.... The other two badges in place, along with the other details. The "bumpers" are cut out of the kit parts, cleaned up, and repainted with SMS Hyperchrome. Fixing the rear lights and fuel filler cap was nerve-wracking -- the sockets they recess into need to be created right on the seam line of the narrowed fenders, and I was very worried about opening up a crack somewhere visible. But I got away with it! I've made a hood stay with some guitar string socketed into a bit of brass tube under the right hand fender. You can also see the radiator header tank relocated from the firewall to the front of the engine, replacing the flat rectangular tank on the 427 Cobra. The top water hose needs to wait until the chassis and body are fully fixed together. best, M.

Yay! A short nose. Well, THAT opens up the possibilities... best, M.

Interesting find while haunting the 'bay: "Speedline" Porsche 936/76. It didn't have a scale listed, and I couldn't find anything about the kit online, but Scalemates lists the SPD-29 decal sheet as 1/24 scale, so I took a gamble. And yes, it's a rather nicely detailed and cast resin full kit in 1/24, with two bodies in (I can't see the difference between them). It makes the early 936 without airbox, but the decals are there for both the stealthy and cool matt black Nurburgring test and launch car, and the white car used for the ongoing campaign and Le Mans win. The black car needs minor surgery -- cutting down the rear fins and the wing lowering, and some scoops reprofiling. I got it for a very good price -- less than the decal sheet alone seems to go for, and the Strada Sports price label on the box says $90-00, which is about three times what I paid! best, M.

This one sounds like someone forgot to latch the cowling shut properly. What I’d like to know is what are SouthWest’s procedures for pre-flight walkarounds? I’ve watch the Jet2 Captain or Co-pilot check their 737s from the lounge window at Leeds often enough, and they check all the opening hatches they can reach by giving them a good shake, including the cowling panels… as well as checking all the air data probes, sticking their heads in the wheel bays, and taking a good look up the jet pipes… beat, M.

I know there are those who don't think that Lego builds are kits, or models, but I beg to disagree. Modelling is building smaller scale impressions of a real thing; modelling using match sticks (or carved bones) has a proud tradition. If the value is in how much fun we have doing it, and how happy we are with the resulting creation, then I reckon Lego counts. It may be constrained by the parts and assembly system on offer, but on the other hand, how many of the regular kits we build offer a fully functional 4 speed gearbox, operated by pedals just like the real thing, pistons on a working crank, or a prototypical working suspension...? Anyway, it looks cool... best, M.

If you have a nearby gaming shop where you can buy Citadel/Warhammer colours they have a range of dedicated washes/"contrast colours" which are ideal for this kind of work. Nuln Oil and Black Templar are the ones you want for a dead black effect, but for panel line/shutline shading on colors so they don't look as harsh as pure black, they also have a whole spectrum... best, M.

I originally thought it was one of these: https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/car-technology/news/a30678/gordon-murrays-flat-pack-truck-is-fantastic/ but having discovered that it wasn't, I didn't manage to find the alternative. I think Mike's point about the potential markets not wanting "special" dedicated vehicles probablyapplied to the Ox as well, despite its top-notch designer's best efforts... best, M.

Got the engine wired, which is another good excuse for a mock-up to see if it will all fit together eventually... I think it's going to need some (at least vestigial) engne bay walls. The coil and various ancillary electrical and fluid components are mounted on them along with some cable runs, so that's this weekend's detailing project! best, M.

Though come to think of it, a two stage Merlin would have made for a heck of a Pike’s Peak contender, if you could carry enough fuel! best, M.

Well, it's not what I thought it was, nor designed by who I thought.... back to thinking... best, M.

Issue #223 has touched down here in South Yorkshire. Still no sign of #222, though... best, M.

A bout with COVID starting last weekend has put a bit of a dent in progress. Just about starting to feel normal now... I should have taken a proper "before" picture, but I didn't think about it in time. I pondered how best to the flip the dash for a while. It's made easier by being a flat panel. In the end I decided just to _actually_ flip it. I cut the ends off cleanly, then punched the two big dials out with a leather hole-punch. I drilled the smaller dials through, and small holes in the locations of each of the switches. I scribed out the glovebox door. Then I flipped it over and glued the big dials back in place. I made switches from plastic rod, and a new glovebox door from card traced through the hole. I backed the whole thing with plastic card, and textured the main dash with liquid cement. Then a coat of matt black, scratch out the dial markings on the small dials with a pin, dry brush the raised detail in the big dials, and add "glass" to all using Citadel 'ardcoat varnish. Finally the switches with an SMS Hyperchrome pen and a black paint maker. Tub finished with textured paint and then Vallejo Dark Prussian Blue. The pedals actually stay the same way round as the LHD version. Gear lever surround done in BMF. Moving forward, if slower than I would have liked! best, M.

60s and 70s cars in the UK and Europe very much came painted body colour all over (and under). Rust proofing and weather protection was an aftermarket service and Ziebart, Waxoyl and DiNitrol were big names to the enthusiastic motorist (and motor sport fan… their sponsor stickers are very visible on rally cars of the period especially). The canny owner or sensible garage mechanic gave the underside a good wipe over or spray with the used engine oil after a change… those were the days! best, M.

, but with the paper folded over each time so each one couldn't see what the people before had done... best, M.