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bmc010

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    24 and soon 16

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    matthew burnett

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  1. i use 32 gauge magnet wire from radio shack its the perfect size comes in several colors, readily available and dirt cheap for more wire than you will probably ever need
  2. also keep in mind the seat...ive built a few nice pro mod chassis only to find out i didnt leave enough room for the seat...i wont start unless i have complete drive train in hand before i start. It helps to have other parts such as steering components and things you want to go inside the car to do test fits as you go.
  3. Any body out there know of someone making a round valve handle, you know the part you turn to turn your nos bottles and air bottles on and off for drag cars? im looking for some in photo etch and i just dont know who makes them. If not are there any photo etch guys out there that can make them? i can provide vector drawings to scale. Any help always appreciated.
  4. i second duplicolor it goes on easy and has a great range of colors that look good...better than your rustoleum or krylons
  5. if i can add my two cents i like to use spray glue like fix a tif found in the local craft store...it works well for laying down vinyl tops as well...just have to practice on a junk piece first to achieve the right look...i only use it cause i have it laying around for matting photos!
  6. the main issues i had to work around were the headlight grills...but i wanted them to dome like the real car and ran into a pickle doing so...i ended up reshaping the headlight bucket slightly to make them work. Other than that i didnt have any serious fit issues that a little trimming or sanding could not fix. It is a nice detail set for the car. I wish i still had it so i could show photos...but its one i built several years ago...possibly up to ten years ago...but i remember it fitting pretty well. hope this helps
  7. i recently got a body off ebay that was slightly warped in a flat spot threw it in the microwave for ten seconds and was able to pull it back into place. it took two tries as the first time i didnt hold it long enough in place and it "remembered" where it was before. Not knowing where you got it or how long you have had it, you might be able to contact the dealer and see about a swap. Thats what the guy i bought my body was willing to do if the microwave trick didnt fix it.
  8. i am decent at laying the paint down, so areas that need to be white or lighter colors i can plan for that when i lay my paint. i am looking and seeing that papilio papers would be a decent option. I do prefer "laser" printing as i occasionally run a digital press at work, that, all said and done is basically a 30 foot long laser printer. Im also seeing that printing myself, will lead to having to spray a coating over the printed area. How thick or thin do i need to lay this down in order to have a sucessful run? As i said in the op i can make my own bodies and test these all day long, but i would rather try with the best results from the get go and learn from there. And, as said before i can lay down paints to work with the decals i print myself weather i use a white back or a clear back. so with that said....is there a benefit to a decal being printed laser or inkjet? I understand alps is the way to go but i just dont have access to it nor am i willing or wanting to pay the 20+ after shipping for a sheet or decals when i know i can print my own and with a little duct tape and bubble gum make it look like the high end stuff. Thanks for all the replies btw. Greg you actually tapped on something i have been thinking about getting into is printing my own photo etch parts. I know there are some fabulous parts from futureattraction and the dirtmodeler but i find myself wanting other parts or kit sets that are more complete than offered so thank you for that link! Again thank you all for the support, i am a member to several forums involving all of my hobbies and it seems that across the board all my questions are stupid questions....i didnt know such a thing existed go figure. Again thanks.
  9. so i dont have access to an alps printer, how ever i do have access to both high quality professional grade inkjet as well as digital high speed presses with amazing quality. I am wondering what the better papers and better techniques are for printing my own decals. I am a graphic designer by trade so the design end is no issue, i have tried a google search and am just not overly happy with the results as they are not really model car based. I am looking to print on both white and clear sheets and they will be for pro mod bodies that i have laying around. Some are my own masters and i have several so screwing things up is not a huge issue. Any help will be much appreciated! thanks guys
  10. ill throw a few of mine out there why not. first one is a pro mod willys i made the bug catcher from styrene strips and tube....second one is a blown motor in a pro mod viper i am still working on last one is a 41 willys pro street type build i finished.
  11. you mentioned building the chassis might be a challenge, i would do the front half like a normal pro mod car and then attached is a photo i found somewhere long ago of how i would do the rear. I believe this is a photo of a pro mod truck rear end chasis. sorry its so small...ive had it forever. Hope this helps and ill be watching!
  12. this build is way cool i totally dig the out of the box thinking on it!
  13. ive seen your avatar around the forums it catches my eye every time im a huge broncos fan we have season tickets and dont miss a game!
  14. wow arvada thats super close to me im broomfield my uncle lives in arvada pm me we can chat more there!!
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