crazyrichard Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 cool set up , i build the exact same kit myself , def. going to look for a nother one , great kit imo looking great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Thanks for adding your methodology, Bernard. Makes for a very interesting read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebolt Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Lookin good Bernard. Keep at it man. Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 The belly pan could definitely be a deal breaker but I'm glad to see you worked it out, Bernard. And, you know these things happen building a real one ... one thing that what makes your builds so interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Love it! The overall look is just awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 Thanks guys! More progress – lots of rough and ugly hacked plastic. The interior panels have been cut. As mentioned earlier, they are based on the Revell 5-window Deuce kit’s floor panel, dashboard, and door panels. Replicating their basic shapes in .020” styrene sheet has increased the piece count from 4 to 7. The parts will be painted in an appropriate shade of steel or aluminum metalizer to imitate the look of a bare metal interior. 1 - Right interior Panel, 2 – Floor, 3 - Left interior Panel, 4 – Dashboard, 5 – Kick panel, 6 – Rear interior panel, 7 – Package shelf. Interior details: The roll bar and steering wheel are from the AMT ’37 Chevy coupe kitm the bucket seat courtesy of ThePartsBox.com In addition I did some work on the grill shell assembly. I removed the backing panel for the radiator. The car will have no radiator. Instead it will have a coolant tank located in the rear of the car with the fuel tank and run coolant lines to the engine block. In the completed build you will only see the coolant lines with the tanks hidden in the non-opening trunk. The photo below shows the front view of the grill shell with the blank grill panel from the kit to its left and, finally, the rear view of the shell showing the panel in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebolt Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Lookin good Bernard. Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Pugh Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Awesome job so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GerN Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 I appreciate your design thoughts as you build - good reading (and learning). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Loving it, great progress, and I really like that color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 lookin awesome Bernard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.A.K Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Kool lookin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Thanks everyone! I’ve gotten the basic color down on all the body parts. Besides the overall design and stance of the car, color is one of the keystone elements that defines a project in my mind’s eye. It’s critical enough that I will almost always shoot a test of the actual sequence of primer and colors before proceeding with the build. This one is pretty simple since it consists only of Duplicolor white primer and Krylon Bauhaus Gold with no contrasting second color other than those that will be supplied by the decals (where my intention is to emphasize simple red lettering and trade decals). Once I’ve shot the basic colors I’ll usually photograph a color check, both because I generally post my builds on line, and because photographs have a tendency to objectify the model, kind of like stepping back and squinting at it to more clearly capture the overall look. In any case, this color turned out to be quite difficult to photograph successfully. My camera made it look too much like a bright yellow and it took some manipulating of the shade in Photoshop to get it right. The second of the three photos below captures the shade most successfully. My idea was to come up with a typical simple race car color of the sort seen at Bonneville in the late 50’s and early 60’s. I think this shade is fairly appropriate. Thanx for lookin’, B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 yup color looks awsome to me !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Sleeeeeeeeeeeck. I like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Very nice. I like the color. I never had a lot of luck with the Krylon paints. Maybe I need to give them another try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thanx everyone! ...I never had a lot of luck with the Krylon paints. Maybe I need to give them another try. What you see in the photographs is a light dust coat followed immediately by a first color coat, all over white primer. I 'll shoot a second thin color coat tomorrow after a light polish. Once I've applied the decals I'll probably seal the whole thing under clear, but it's a race car so I'm not going for a high show car gloss, just a uniform smoothness so the bodywork looks thin and crisp. For us rattlecan types, Krylon paints have a lot appeal because they are cheap, very widely available, and come in a large variety of basic solids and metallics. The trick with them is that Krylon advertises them as fast drying, which has a tendency to make one approach them as you would lacquers. But from the odor they give off as they air out I would hazard a guess that they are spme sort of acrylic enamel. In any case, even though they appear to dry to the point where they can be handled in 15 or 20 minutes, the paint remains fairly soft for another day or two before it can be properly sanded down or rubbed out. Also, as you can see from the pictures, if you apply it in thin coats it has a tendency to set up in a semi-gloss state. Once it hardens enough it polishes out nicely. It's also fairly drip resistant unless you're really excessive in loading up a coat. It's best to rely on a clear coat to get a high gloss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 I designed some decals for the car. The fictitious sponsor is Avalon Racing Services in Long Beach, California. Avalon is a small town on Catalina Island and Long Beach is the main industrial city facing Catalina on the California coast. The red in the Photoshop mockup below is brighter than the decals will be due to the transparency of the inkjet printing on the clear decal stock I’ll be using. I’ve run in to some incompatibility between the Krylon color coat and the Krylon gloss clear I’m using as a sealer. It causes crazing, much in the way a lacquer would when sprayed over an enamel. This was totally unexpected. Fortunately I had only sprayed the hood and grill shell when I ran into the problem. The hood has had to be stripped but the grill shell can be rubbed out to save it. I’ll try some Testors enamel clear in the hopes that it will solve my problem. Thanx for lookin’, B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebolt Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Lookin really sharp Bernard. Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) Thanx Corey! Progress on this build is slow be steady. I got some Testors Modelmaster No. 2936 Clear Top Coat which is Testors’ only true enamel clear in a rattle can. It seems to have solved the crazing problem I had. I generally use lacquers so I’m unaccustomed to the slow cure time for enamels. I tried polishing an area of my test panel after 24 hours and the paint, while hard enough to stand up to a light polishing , seemed a bit soft so the result was somewhat milky. I’ll give the final coats a good 5 to 7 days before polishing. I created final decal art which required modification of the “Avalon Spcl.” logo to fit properly on the rear panel below the trunk. Otherwise the proof pieces laid out properly. I’ll probably print and apply the decals tomorrow, which means the final clear should go on Tuesday. Final polish and assembly should happen in about a week to 10 days. Meanwhile most of the sub-assemblies have been painted. I decided to give the belly pan a polished aluminum finish. I scored some panel lines into the pan to represent the three panels that would be removable on the 1:1. During final assembly I’ll apply some Dzus fasteners in appropriate places to “secure”” them. I also cut some relief holes along the sides of the bellypan for the exhaust pipes which exit in front of the rear wheels. I bought some transparent red acetate for the windows and decided to make a matching see-through grill panel as well. This was a popular thing to do in the late 50’s and early 60’s. Hopefully the front of the blown Nailhead will be visible through the panel on the finished model. (and yes, I will strip and re-finish the grill shell…) And lastly, most of the interior panels are painted in Metalizer Aluminum Plate with the roll bar done in black semi-gloss. I still have to apply p/e gauges to the dash and fabricate a steering system. Along with some engine wiring and plumbing, this is the only mechanical work left to do on the car. I hope to have this project wound up in about two weeks, barring any late-stage disasters… Thanx for lookin’, B. Edited October 29, 2012 by Bernard Kron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.A.K Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) Such a good lookin pic. Edited October 29, 2012 by H.A.K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Thanx! I got the decals and clear succesfully applied. After a few days to cure I'll start final assembly. I'm really looking forward to seeing the impact on the appearance of the red plexiglas windows and grill. Thanx for lookin', B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Great work on the paint and graphics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan_m Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 oh yea! im agreein with cranky.............that looks great! cheers bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 This thing will be awesome when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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