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joeymazz

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    joey mazzarella

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  1. I have recently just purchased an iwata hp-cs air brush and have been testing different paints from craft acrylic, enamals, and even nail polish. Not too big into the acrylic. I dont like not being able to wetsand color layers for trash. I got good results with nail polish on spoons then attempted spaying a hood and the paint did something funky. Very textured so i stripped it of and re primed hood. If i could get some processes and materials yall use that would be great. Im open to anything. Enamals, acrylics, lacquers, even decanted spray paints. Havnt tried that. Also whats good clears to be able to wetsand. Whether it be 2 part automotive clear or rattle can or anytying else i havnt heard of. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
  2. This is my first time attempting craft acrylic through an airbrush and i have a little bit of trash in the base coat. Is there anything i can do to get it out? I know wetsanding is out of the question. Any help would be appreciated.
  3. Hey guys just wanted some insight on how to do a temporary mock up on a chassis. Anyway to just use a drop of testors glue to get the wheels and axles on and be able to take them back apart. Thanks
  4. hey guys just a quick question. can i use any automotive body filler/puddy to do my body work on my chop top? thanks joey
  5. thanks dave. i already channeled the sedan and im not using inner fender wells because im going for a rat/hotrod look. im now in the process of cutting down the interior panels to fit with the body all the way down on the frame. i wasn't going to use the back seat but i want a challenge so im going to attempt to keep the back seat and lower it down in the car. where did you get those wheels and tires dave. ive been looking for different wheels and tires to use dont really know where to look. i want the rat rod look in tires i want the rear tires to be in the rear windows of the sedan. like it is in the pic it doesn't have to be that extreme tho as long as they are in the window somewhat.
  6. Thanks bryan that would be great if you do
  7. thanks ace and yes i like that look as well i already cut the tank out and shortened the rails. now i have to lengthen the axle to get wheels to clear body and im going to cut the back seat out and put a fuel cell in the back. if anyone knows any good places to shop for wheels and tires please feel free to post the links i need to figure out what wheels and tires im going to use before i do anything with the frame
  8. hey guys if you havn't seen my posts in the q&a section ill go a head and tell you this is the first model i have done in 12 or 13 years and just got back into it for the simple fact i like a challenge. this is my new 32 sedan i started on yesterday and just got the chop done and glued. if any of you guys have any good sites to buy wheels and tires from im not using the ones in the kit so id like to buy some and thats kind of the next thing before i decide what to do with the frame. oh yea and if anyone has a dash for a 71 cuda i dont remember what brand it is i could use it. i know its a long shot but i figured its worth a try.
  9. thanks ken and your right the frame is nice along with the rest of the kit is probly the best quality kit i have seen so far. little to no flashing on parts and everything fits nice so far. now its time to do some body work and i may do some other stuff to the body dont know yet. p.s. the hemi in the pic is just for reference and i haven't decided if im going to us flat head or hemi or some other motors i have laying around. also still not sure whether im going rat rod or street rod or in between. thanks guys. i may need to start a post in on the bench and post of progress pix
  10. thanks guys for the advice i know i should walk first but the reason i got back into models is to challenge myself. i can build a nice quality out of box model but wanted to do something different. i went ahead and chopped the body last night and i was suprised at the outcome i got. it actually turned out quite nice. and on that 32 coupe you z'ed the frame on how did you get the back of the frame short enough to get into the body did you cut off the gas tank area which was what i was refering to when i said cut the frame off behind the axle? heres a couple pix of the chop. i took my time laying out my lines before destroying a body. it took me about an hour to lay the line and all of about 15 minutes to cut it with a razor saw.
  11. Ok guys day two on this site and this is my second post. thanks to all on the help with my first post. if you didn't see my first post my new project is a revell 32 ford sedan 2n1. as i said in the first post i planned on chopping channeling and scratchbuilding a frame. well that was my plan but my wallet didn't agree. after spending $100 at the local hobby store today on various tools, glues and others i decided not to buy the material needed for the frame. i havn't ruled it out was just looking for some input before i try to use the stock frame in the box. i think it would work if i cut off the back of the frame behind the rear axle. didn't know if anyone on here has channeled the same model and could give me some insight on it. did you use the stock frame ect. pics would be great not trying to rip off anyones ideas just trying to get the juices flowing. like i said this is my first model in 12 or 13 years so im not rushing it. tonight im going to try to lay out lines for the chop. any insight on that would be great too but it looks as if that part is going to be pretty staight forward. but if you guys have done it and know of anything to look out for when doing the chop that would be great as well. thanks guys for any help you can give me. joey
  12. thanks to all for the quick replies and insight. i always have primerd my bodies before paint but that was the only thing i would prime. i also always sprayed interiors but i always brushed engines which i think i will take your advice blue and try to spray one for the simple fact that i cant stand seeing brush strokes. i alway followed directions for applying brush paint such as not overlaping strokes but always seemed to not matter. sometimes the paint looks uniform and other times it doesnt. glad to know i was on track already about assembling things that were going to be painted the same color. as for the glue i guess to better describe what im looking for (if it even exists) is a glue that will not make the paint bleed and will dry clear. and if anyone has any tips or tricks of applying glue that would be great input as well. i usually use the toothpick for small parts and i have even tried qtips. didn't know if any of the glues out there were able to be applied by brush or anything. if so that would be great. sorry for all the rookie questions but i have 2 projects that im just starting tonight and its the first models i have messed with in 12 or 13 years. i have a model a tudor sedan that im going to chop and channel as well as attempt a scratch built frame just for the simple fact that i wanna see if i can do it. i build custom motorcycles for a living and i can do that with my eyes closed but a model car is a whole nother animal. if you cant tell i like fabrication and making my ideas come to life. again thanks for all the replies and have only been a member on here for an hour or 2 and already had so much help thanks
  13. aight guys this is probly a dumb question for most but i just recently got back into model cars and i have a few questions that i hope i can get some tips on. first off when doing parts such as the engine is it best to paint the parts before glueing engine together or after engine is assembled? which leads me to the next question which is when painting parts such as the engine should you prime the parts and whats the best method to paint engine parts or any parts for that matter with a brush and not get brush marks? should all parts in kit be primed before any kind of airbrushing or bush painting them? i have a ton of other questions but ill end on this one which is there any other kind of glues to assemble with that are better then your average testors assembley glue. i.e. stronger? quick setting. any insight would be greatly appreciated.
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