Bondo on plastic?

[Patrick2005]

I'm attempting to fill in the tail lights on my S10 model and was wondering what the best type of bondo is for the job? I have some with small fibers in it but it broke out like it didn't stick.

[Longbox55]

What you would want to use is the 2 part Professional Glazing Putty, which comes in a tube. Thsi is not to be confused with the old red Glazing Putty that has been around forever, which is a single component filler. You'll want the stuff that has 2 tubes (one filler, one catalyst) in the package. It can be found at the flaps, and sometimes Wal-Mart has it in stock, too.

Now, on to what you're attempting to do. If you're trying to fill the taillight holes using only filler, that is the main thing that's causing problems. You should fill them either using the taillight peices (if you're not using them elsewhere) or possibly sheet plastic. That will fill the hole with a stong, compatible material with the surrounding plastic. Sand it to the rough shape, then use the filler to finish. It's basically the same as working with a 1:1, you never try to fill a hole with Bondo, it simply won't stay put. You would fill with metal, be it a patch or even welding it up in the case of small pinholes. Then use filler to finish, if needed.

[935k3]

Try filling with as much plastic using liquid cement first then use a good two part putty to fill in the rest.

[Harry P.]

Dale and Bill are exactly right. And before you finish up with the Bondo, sand the plastic surface with some fairly coarse sandpaper to give the Bondo something to grab on to.

[spkgibson]

They Are all correct, But if you're not going to use the taillights anyways, Superglue those in the cavitys , File them down close to the correct shape you want, Then use the 2-Part putty over them, It saves you alot of time, And won't cost you dime on sheet styrene and trying to shape it, They already have the correct shape to them, And it is save to use the filler over the clear plastic. It's actually , To me better then sheet plastic, It's alot more rigid then the other plastic in the kit. Plus it's free!

[Scale-Master]

They Are all correct, But if you're not going to use the taillights anyways, Superglue those in the cavitys , File them down close to the correct shape you want, Then use the 2-Part putty over them, It saves you alot of time, And won't cost you dime on sheet styrene and trying to shape it, They already have the correct shape to them, And it is save to use the filler over the clear plastic. It's actually , To me better then sheet plastic, It's alot more rigid then the other plastic in the kit. Plus it's free!

I concur 100%.

[Mooneyzs]

I have to agree with the others here that you would want to fill in tail light area with plastic to get the rough shape. I would probably just glue the tail light in myself sand it with some 220 grit or even 180 to rough it up to give the filler something to grab onto. Lay your Mud (body filler) after you have mixed it up good. Then start sanding.

Here is the Body Filler I have been using for years. I also have friends that use the bondo brand.

[Jon Cole]

I love the smell of Bondo in the morning. Smells like... victory.

Edited April 10, 2011 by Jon Cole

[Mooneyzs]

For working on models, Evercoat is the biggest waste of money that there is!

Don't get me wrong, Evercoat is a great two part putty, probably the best that there is out there, & my personal favorite for 1/1 cars, but a can that size will set you back around $40 most places, & you run the risk of the putty going bad before you can use it all.

If you're going to use it on 1/1 cars as well as models, then by all means I recommend it, but for what we do, it's more expensive than it's worth. For models only, save your money stick with the two part Bondo Professional Glazing Putty in the tube that I showed. It's going to work, sand & feather out just like Evercoat on a model. An added plus with the Bondo I recommend & models is it's easier to control the amount coming out of the tube than it is dipping it out of the can.

Trust me, I worked at Freightliner as a painter/bodyman for 11 years, as well as working at my cousin's bodyshop for over a year & used Evercoat exclusively in both places, so I know how good it is. If the Bondo I use on models wasn't as good for what we do as the Evercoat is, I would say so.

This is what I have been using for years and have been happy with it. One of my good friend's dad who painted my real 71 El Camino and has been painting cars for an easy 25+ years recommended the evercoat to me and that would be good to use on plastic models. I will have to pick up a tube of this 3M bondo and give it a try. I have also been using PPG and HOK basecoat/clearcoat for painting my bodies. Again its a preference thing and like how it sprays versus other brands out there.

[Patrick2005]

I took the expert advice offered here and got some spot putty and must say it worked flawlessly! Also used the tails, glued them in placed and then covered them, it came out very nice if I do say so. Thank you all for your help!

[Jon Cole]

For working on models, Evercoat is the biggest waste of money that there is!

Don't get me wrong, Evercoat is a great two part putty, probably the best that there is out there, & my personal favorite for 1/1 cars, but a can that size will set you back around $40 most places, & you run the risk of the putty going bad before you can use it all.

If you're going to use it on 1/1 cars as well as models, then by all means I recommend it, but for what we do, it's more expensive than it's worth. For models only, save your money stick with the two part Bondo Professional Glazing Putty in the tube that I showed. It's going to work, sand & feather out just like Evercoat on a model. An added plus with the Bondo I recommend & models is it's easier to control the amount coming out of the tube than it is dipping it out of the can.

Trust me, I worked at Freightliner as a painter/bodyman for 11 years, as well as working at my cousin's bodyshop for over a year & used Evercoat exclusively in both places, so I know how good it is. If the Bondo I use on models wasn't as good for what we do as the Evercoat is, I would say so.

I couldn't agree more, Mark! I am currently trying to rescue a large tube of Evercoat 2-part; it is drying out. I have been adding resin. Next time I open it up... it will either be good; or garbage.

Thanks for the Bondo brand recommendation! I will look for that.

[Mooneyzs]

I understand Chris & I agree the Evercoat is great stuff. I forget who recommended the two part Bondo spot putty on here, but after having the last two cans of Evercoat Eurosoft & a can of Bondo, (which at least was cheaper), go bad on me. I was ready to try a cheaper alternative. Given that the can of Bondo didn't work as well as the Evercoat had, (while both were good & the Bondo did work, just needing more sanding than the Evercoat), I initially thought the Bond Glazing/Spot putty would be similar. I was so wrong & I'm glad I was. That glazing/spot putty works as well as Evercoat does on models, sanding easily, feathering well, & adhering nicely. Since it is a two part catalyzed putty just like regular Bondo or Evercoat, it's properties are the same on models, in that it won't shrink.

Give it a try, I think you'll become a convert! It really works well. It's nearly as finely grained as Evercoat is, (seeming to be more finely grained than regular Bondo two part putty), which may explain why it works so well. I do understand the preference thing myself. A lot of that is what you get used to. At Freightliner we used Dupont paint products exclusively, so I grew used to them, though I too preferred PPG & HOK paints, which is what my cousin used at his shop.

I am definitely going to pick up a tube and try for sure. For some reason I was thinking this bondo in the tube would of been just as grainy as the bondo in a can. Now knowing that you said it is nearly as finely grained as the Evercoat, thats a definite plus. What else is funny is that I started using glazing putty (non 2 part with hardner) and I will say that stuff was junk in my opinion for a couple of reasons, 1. It shrinks, 2. you put too much on it cracks & 3. takes way longer to dry. After having so much trouble is when I switched and been lovin the 2 part putty.

I was going to tell you a tip I learned last year in regards to PPG paints. Not sure which ones you used but I mostly was using Deltron DBC and used a few DBU's. Anyway Little over a year ago when I got laid off I started getting back into building alot like I did years ago and when I went to my local PPG paint store to get some paint the one guy working there was telling me about the Omni line (there is Omni & Omni Plus) that PPG has, It is pretty much like DBC and used the the same DT860/870 Reducers. I typcially have them mix up either a touch up bottle, 1/2 pint or pint of paint for me. well the cost is amazing how much you can save going with it. for example I picked up a 1995 Ford Ultra Violet Poly just this last week to reshoot one of my kits. ( I shot it with this DBU a week prior and noticed that something wasn't right with the paint.) Long story short, I had this color in DBU that I picked pick up years ago and the paint went bad. It basically got seedy. due to it being a paint that needed a reactive reducer. Wasn't sure if there was air that got into the can or what. Anyway a Pint of this color is DBC was about $98 bucks and I picked up a Pint of Omni and it was $28. the guy at the PPG shop did say if you were blending a job that lets say to a factory paint on a real car that it wouldn't match as good so you'd probably want to go DBC there due to toners and metallics...etc But for what I am doing with painting our models, I will save my money where I can. Anyway you may of already of known about the Omni line but thought I would share. It lays down just as nice as DBC.

Also Sorry that I got side tracked from what this original post was about.

Patrick, I am glad to hear that this spot putty worked great for you.