Yes the topic has been well covered but I didn't articulate my answer to Bernard's question as I meant it. He asked about the problem of haze after wet sanding to the finest grits. I relayed that my chosen method on this model was to get to the 12,000 grit stage and then clear with no further sanding or polishing. This is how I chose to rectify the haze problem.
The other responders all say that polishing after either color or clear will give a more 'natural' 1:1 finish. I do not contest this, merely state that my solution to haze was clear.
Certainly the entire process of color sanding with fine grits at every stage and thorough dry times is part of a flawless substrate. Once the final coat is applied (either clear or color) polishing is always an option. I have done it both ways in model and 1:1 form. A correctly applied last clear coat eliminates the additional steps of polishing with multiple products. And if done correctly avoids the lollypop, thick gloss look.
I do not think my result looks like the latter example; in person the model has a distinct premium 1930's finish. On the other hand my 1:1 project has the complete custom paint finish with sanding at each stage, (as does the model, except for polishes) primer, base color, two candy colors, stripe color and overall clear and 3M products by wheel and hand glaze. In spite of the number of finishes, it is not a 'thick' gloss finish - it lays completely flat.
The additional benefit of the clear on models I've found, is the fact that it enriches the color beneath and makes it pop.
I offered that to Bernard to achieve his goal of haze removal in an efficient, easier way. There are several ways to accomplish the same goal.