Harry P. Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Again going by reference photos, I made the wooden slats that the trunk will sit on. They are made of strips of basswood, stained and varnished, and the brass scuff plates are brass wire. You'll see where these pieces go in an upcoming post... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramfins59 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Your creative scratchbuilding is a joy to see Harry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 You outdid yourself on that trunk, it looks great ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 I'm modifying the rear luggage rack so that it will actually operate (fold open and closed). The white parts are styrene that I have added... hinge pins, hinge arms, etc. The "nuts" that will hold the hinge arms in place are sliced off of hex-shaped styrene rod and part-way drilled through to fit over the new styrene rod pins I added to the rack: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 (edited) OK-now you're just showing off!!!!!!!! No turning wheels but an operating trunk rack????????? Edited November 16, 2014 by Cato Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I've only seen a couple of completed versions of this kit, but it seemed to me that the chrome parts looked pretty rough around the edges. Are you finding that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Yeah, the chrome isn't the best. Some parts are worse than others. I'm going to go with what I have, though... no sending out parts for replating. This kit just isn't worth that kind of expense. I'll use foil whenever possible to hide some of the flaws, but it's not going to be perfect. But then again, I like my models to look like real cars as they really looked, not flawless restored show cars that always look a little too perfect and too shiny to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Here's the finished folding luggage rack: Not much else coming until I get the pinstripe tape, which won't be for several days at least. I got an email today telling me they shipped it today... six days after I ordered it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I know you're waiting on the tape. But any thought to try the twin #11 blade trick to make your own? Maybe on painted BMF? Jus' sayin'... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) I know you're waiting on the tape. But any thought to try the twin #11 blade trick to make your own? Maybe on painted BMF? Jus' sayin'... I have different rolls of Line O Tape in varying sizes of chrome, aluminum and brushed silver. They have hard finishes that don't wrinkle, and the advantage is that the different sizes (down to super teeny 1/64") are perfectly machine-cut, and the sharpness of the edges can't be beat. Available in a variety of colors and sizes. But curves can be a problem. Edited November 21, 2014 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I wonder why they made the manifolds go on the inside rather than the outside... Save space? It's very simple, actually! On any conventionally designed V8 engine, the camshaft is in the "Vee", between the cylinder banks. With an overhead valve engine, it's not a problem to put the valves on the outer side of the cylinder heads, with their exhaust mainfolds on that side, but unless one wants to put exhaust passages across the cylinder banks--THROUGH the water jackets!--then the exhaust ports on a flat head engine will be on the side of the cylinder banks closest to the valves. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 There are NO crossmembers in that chassis??? That explains the 'hoseshoe' rear engine mount. That's not even a 'ladder frame'. I'm thinking zero torsional rigidity. :wacko: Rail frames never did have much in the way of crossmembers back in earlier days. About the only way engineers could figure to give those open-channel rail frames any sort of real torsional resistance was to deepen the "web" of the channel section, to allow beefier (read that taller) crossmembers, and relying on the rather heavily cast engine crankcase and transmission housings to resist serious twisting. Of course, closed body types had the ability to make a much more torsionally stiff unit once installed. It wasn't until the 1929 Cord L-29 was put into production that the first X-member crossmembers were installed in automobile frames, which greatly reduced the tendency of such frames to twist. By the middle 1930's, many automakers (most notably Ford) were beginning to install "doublers" inside otherwise open channel frame rails, adding strength and torsional resistance (although this was a bit limited, due to the reliance on hot-riveting--welding of automotive frames didn't really hit until the late 1940's). Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 I know you're waiting on the tape. But any thought to try the twin #11 blade trick to make your own? Maybe on painted BMF? Jus' sayin'... Are you kidding? Do you realize how hard that would be to do? Trying to cut BMF into a thin pinstripe and then apply it straight, and without tearing it? Try it and see! Make sure you post the results... No thanks, I'll wait for the tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 I have different rolls of Line O Tape in varying sizes of chrome, aluminum and brushed silver. They have hard finishes that don't wrinkle, and the advantage is that the different sizes (down to super teeny 1/64") are perfectly machine-cut, and the sharpness of the edges can't be beat. Available in a variety of colors and sizes. But curves can be a problem. I've only used their metallics, and those do not like to go around bends or radiuses (er...radii... ). I'm guessing it has to do with the type of plastic the metallics are made of... maybe the "regular" colors are softer and more flexible around bends. We'll see (I ordered both red and black tapes). In this case, the tape will only be in straight lines along the body and hood sides, no curves whatsoever, so that's good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Rail frames never did have much in the way of crossmembers back in earlier days. About the only way engineers could figure to give those open-channel rail frames any sort of real torsional resistance was to deepen the "web" of the channel section, to allow beefier (read that taller) crossmembers, and relying on the rather heavily cast engine crankcase and transmission housings to resist serious twisting. Of course, closed body types had the ability to make a much more torsionally stiff unit once installed. It wasn't until the 1929 Cord L-29 was put into production that the first X-member crossmembers were installed in automobile frames, which greatly reduced the tendency of such frames to twist. By the middle 1930's, many automakers (most notably Ford) were beginning to install "doublers" inside otherwise open channel frame rails, adding strength and torsional resistance (although this was a bit limited, due to the reliance on hot-riveting--welding of automotive frames didn't really hit until the late 1940's). Art And besides... given what passed for "roads" back in those days, I'm guessing a little bit of give in the frame wasn't necessarily a bad thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 I know you're waiting on the tape... Plenty to keep me busy in the meantime. I'm working on a 1905 Itala, and a mislabeled 1912 Model T (it's actually a 1915 or 16) came in the mail yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Are you kidding? Do you realize how hard that would be to do? Trying to cut BMF into a thin pinstripe and then apply it straight, and without tearing it? Try it and see! Make sure you post the results... I did not say it was cake did I?? Well admittedly, I've not done it that thin (you don't say how thin your stripe must be) but I'd guess the space between the blades is one mm. But I have done the 2 mm rad brace rod on the Rolls with BMF. Cut 6 mm wide and the length of the rod, I got it exactly around the rod with no overlap seam. The trick is to use 2 tabs of Scotch tape at each end of the BMF as 'handles' which allow easier placement. Next time I'm BMF'ing I will try the double blades and see what I get. I promise to post even if it's FUBAR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Anderson Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 And besides... given what passed for "roads" back in those days, I'm guessing a little bit of give in the frame wasn't necessarily a bad thing. Not to mention that back "in the day", cars tended to not be driven at nearly the speeds we do today. Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I haven't read this whole thread but I would say that I have taken Tamiya masking tape and cut it into 1/32" or so strips after painting it with Tamiya spray paint, and it went around corners as smoothly as you could hope for and the paint didn't crack or anything. the tape was thin enough that you couldn't see it on the edge of the paint if you see what I mean. it was a desperate move but it turned out really really well (this in 1/24). I shot some clear over it and it looked painted on. might want to experiment with that if its appropriate. it did have just a bit of texture but that seemed to disappear with the painting. and its strong enough to manhandle a bit if necessary. jb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I haven't read this whole thread but I would say that I have taken Tamiya masking tape and cut it into 1/32" or so strips after painting it with Tamiya spray paint, and it went around corners as smoothly as you could hope for and the paint didn't crack or anything. There ya go Harr; that's 8 tenths of a mm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 The tape finally came... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Like the color combo. Looking forward to more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Here is the finished rear end with trunk rails and folding luggage rack: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Harry I've got to be honest; your skills and craftsmanship are never in question but my feeling is the spoke wheels let the presentation down. Would you consider wheel disc covers or solid steel wheels with slots? At least they're easier than lacing your own more accurate wires. And I know you're working on the other new models simultaneously and probably don't want to reinvent the wheel (pun!) on this one............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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