1/12th Trumpeter GT40

[Cato]

Really enjoying this thread; great modeling work, and the reference pictures are so cool.

Thanks, nice to hear. Hope it makes you want to get one and show us your interpretation.

[Jim Gibbons]

Thanks, nice to hear. Hope it makes you want to get one and show us your interpretation.

I'd love to, but my disability budget won't allow it! That's okay...I live vicariously through threads like this, and considering some of the criticisms about this particular kit, even if I could afford it, I'd hesitate to spend the money unless it was on a really good sale. I'm very interested in the ways folks are overcoming these faults, though...excellent modeling skills!

[Cato]

Yes, certainly the kit is too expensive for what you get. I know why SMC didn't do a detail-up kit. The other company did (can't remember name) but I did not see the worth of adding another $150 for essentially PE and white metal of many kit parts.

It would be a great $100 kit because the shapes and fits are great but they really cut corners on the suspension and a lot of the engine and brake detail. At the kit's current price it should have ALL the correct detail and fit of the 1:1.

I think Trump capitalized on the fact that except for die-casts it's the only one that's been done in large scale. That's why they hooked me.

[Cato]

Attention Syd,

Earlier I said I would post some shots to show how I handled that front chassis section you asked about. I've suddenly realized that I've been posting my work in your thread. I apologize for this oversight and if you prefer I will start my own thread rather than clutter yours. Please advise.

However, progress on mine has shown what's been done so far and with running my 1:1 this season it will be slow progress on the kit for a while. So I don't have a ton to add-just wanted to answer your questions and give a few 'heads-up' before you got to sticky parts. The way I solve model problems is not the only way and plenty of skilled guys on here (as yourself) have indeed got better answers. I'm hoping to see a lot of stuff I could have done better.

I will post a few now, begging your indulgence. You'll see that corner and some techniques I tried and was happy about.

Here's the corner and gas fill area:

A better view of the tin panel overlaps:

This shows a chassis panel I tried to suggest; it's the blue shape with two holes right before the door opening. Originals actually had three lightening holes-one large and two smaller arranged vertically. I'm not talented enough to get three on a small piece of .020...

Also seen is the long aluminum sheet that contains the brake duct inlet. Rather than strip all of Trump's chrome, I left these-instead I scuffed them lightly with gray scuff pad and found it has the sheen I wanted but with the shopworn look of the real racecars. Vary how much or little you want to dull them.

Finally, in the rear I made my own anti-roll bar and links from .075 coat hanger, annealed and left blackened. In scale it comes out to a hair over 7/8" thick, about perfect for bars which range from 3/4" to 1 1/4". I bent mine under the headers but plenty of GT's had them run over the headers, no doubt for quick change adjustments. I made thicker springs in the front but failed to do the rears and now I hate the skinny, out of scale coils there. And yes, one brake line is missing. Oh well...

[LR3]

Attention Syd,

Earlier I said I would post some shots to show how I handled that front chassis section you asked about. I've suddenly realized that I've been posting my work in your thread. I apologize for this oversight and if you prefer I will start my own thread rather than clutter yours. Please advise.

Sharing the thread is fine. Keeps everything in one place and I like the help. Now I have to study what you have done and see what I can apply. We are looking for different finishes for different car styles.

[Cato]

Sharing the thread is fine. Keeps everything in one place and I like the help. Now I have to study what you have done and see what I can apply. We are looking for different finishes for different car styles.

Thanks-that's a good point. It's all here. Surely we're going different routes-that will hopefully inspire other guys to jump in with their own builds.

[LR3]

While waiting for some front end things to dry I thought I would follow your example Cato and add brake lines to the back where they would be much more visible than on the front. Used thin black tube as the the small braid that I have is what I used for oil lines and I hoped the black would look smaller. This and the throttle return spring are about the only easy add ons I have found so far ( although the garbage disposal ate my oil filler assembly so I had to scratch build a replacement.) Looking forward to adding the carb and fuel lines this week.

I can see why you guys that are familiar with this car complain about the thickness of the suspension but I don't think I would want to deal with thinner plastic while handling the model.

[Cato]

Looks very nice Syd-like a Trumpeter factory display build. Neat as a pin.

The brake lines you did really add to the car. I agree about the fiddly suspension.

You can only go so far with this kit.

Those fuel pumps are a challenge-are you going to plumb them? If so here are the real Stewart Warner A240 pumps on an earlier model GT:

I went nuts on mine and added the wire clamps on the bottom of each (bent pins) and suggested the mounting clamps with flat black for the rubber damper and a stripe of silver for the clamp. The pump body I painted Titan gold and a black top cap. Of course I wasted my time as it gets lost when the bulkhead goes on.

Leave the trailing arms off so you can slide the cockpit and chassis plate on, then snug down the front. It's a sweat spreading the cockpit over that rear firewall.

[jasoncamaro]

Man you guys are inspiring me to get my kit out and start building it. Ive been waiting for someone to do a wip on this kit i hope mine turns out half as good as your ones. Are you guys using the KA models super detail set?

Edited July 5, 2010 by jasoncamaro

[Cato]

Man you guys are inspiring me to get my kit out and start building it. Ive been waiting for someone to do a wip on this kit i hope mine turns out half as good as your ones. Are you guys using the KA models super detail set?

That's great news Jason-get it started, I'd love to see more builds. As I stated above, I didn't buy the KA set.

[LR3]

That's great news Jason-get it started, I'd love to see more builds. As I stated above, I didn't buy the KA set.

Nor did I buy the KA set. The model is the most detailed I have ever purchased and a joy to build if you don't mind stripping the chrome off half the set. I can't visualize what the model would look like if built as produced. Maybe it would look great. That was a good idea Cato had to scuff up some of the chrome to change it's look. I just never thought of that.

By the way - what function does the dish around the carburetor perform - not the Venturi at the top but the bowl under?

Edited July 5, 2010 by LR3

[LR3]

Two questions.

What function does the dish around the carburetor perform - not the Venturi at the top but the bowl under?

AND where do you fill the cooling system with water?

[Cato]

Two questions.

What function does the dish around the carburetor perform - not the Venturi at the top but the bowl under?

AND where do you fill the cooling system with water?

The aluminum pan is in fact known as a 'turkey pan'-because it looks like one. It is used on a GT to isolate the carb(s) from engine heat. On Cobras it is sealed to the hood scoop to block heat and admit ambient air. The plexi 'funnel' above on the carb air horn is to prevent the fuel 'fog' from spreading and igniting on the headers. Weber carbed small block cars used a flat aluminum plate suspended over the carb throats for the same reason. It's plexi so the driver has some rear vision through the mail slot bulkhead and rear glass.

Water would be filled from the highest point in the system. The GT's rad and lines running aft are at floor level. No radiator cap so don't add one. Generally (the way I fill the Cobra) it is through the temperature sensor bung on the top of the intake manifold. It's not detailed here by Trump. I think the 'aluminum' tank attached on the driver's side of the firewall is the 'overflow' or expansion tank and was probably where they filled GT's-see how high it is? It's above the engine and has a cap.

The tin around the brake ducts look good-did you Alclad them? The brake hoses may be a problem-stuff them with cotton or bend some solder to get the shape they need to get to the brakes.

[Jim Gibbons]

Alright; it having been said that I will likely never build this kit, but I am learning so much about the 1:1 car, and I'm so impressed with the comradery and support this thread is getting, and the workmanship on the posted models. This is what this modeling board is all about!

[LR3]

The tin around the brake ducts look good-did you Alclad them? The brake hoses may be a problem-stuff them with cotton or bend some solder to get the shape they need to get to the brakes.

Nope - just a rattle can of silver leaf I happened to have. - Thanks for the tip on the hoses. I had tried bending them just for kicks and saw how they would collapse. I was wondering how to handle that. AND like Jim says - I am learning a lot about this car. I just got the model because it looked like it had a lot of details to play with.

Jim - what is holding you back from building the model seeing as a copy resides on your shelf? I looked at your gallery and you really are into detail with those tiny cars. I can barely handle 1/12 and may have to go back to 1/8 after this so the parts are big enough to get ahold of.

[Jim Gibbons]

Jim - what is holding you back from building the model seeing as a copy resides on your shelf? I looked at your gallery and you really are into detail with those tiny cars. I can barely handle 1/12 and may have to go back to 1/8 after this so the parts are big enough to get ahold of.

I don't have one. The closest I came was having a newer reissue of the old Aurora GT40. Now I regret giving it away a few years ago, as this thread has great details that would have been a great help. Yeah, the 1/43 stuff is neat, but I'm having to rely on the glasses way too much these days. I have a few to finish as builds for a friend, and after that, nothing smaller than 1/32!

[Wagoneer81]

This is a fascinating thread. I've looked at this kit before and this thread has answered most of the questions I had about it. Even with this kits issues, I still think I'll get a hold of one when the opportunity presents itself... Keep up the good work!!!

---One little trick I found when dealing with chrome; if you need it to look like polished aluminum, hit it with a couple of light coats of Testors dullcoat. This works really well on the 1/25 scale stuff I'm used to working with.

[LR3]

Cato - thanks for the suggestion to stuff the brake cooling tubes with cotton so they would not collapse with the required bend. They sure do w/o cotton. I had to chop 3/8" off the tubes to make the turn seem reasonable. Also had to remove the wheels for better access and a few details got knocked around like the windshield wiper and front air dam while handling.

Had a problem installing the rack and pinion. Could not handle all the mating surfaces while trying to assemble. The kit was limited on this detail - finally figured out where it went but could not get the steering wheel shaft-rotor to stay where I think it aught to go as there seemed to be too much interference. Finally just jammed everything about where it should go and decided the model will not be steerable.

[Cato]

Syd,

Glad it worked for you. Yes Trump should have put more thought into the front end geometry. Early on I decided to glue all the joint connections and sacrifice steering. It's a shame for this much money. Of course, guys on here can make lathe-turned rods, cast uprights and adjustable heim joints and probably their own steering racks. I will envy them forever.

Fearing what's happening to you and because I'm sometimes a klutz, I made a simple 1/8" foamboard cradle that the tub sits in and I move it around and pick it up by that. You can just see it in a few of my shots.

Doors: Are you using the bubble? I filled the recess in my driver door with two-part Bondo. Also be sure to install the door 'eyebrows' in the roof. I found they secure the doors more snugly when closed. The doors will sit higher than the roof a bit if you don't and that looks junky.

Almost forgot-a tip about the knockoffs. The rears have no 'cap' in the center-the bearing is way deep inside. If you want accurate knockoffs, drill the center of the two rear knockoffs. See mine and here's the 1:1 on my Cobra, same as GT.

Also my Goodyears were brand new in this snap-they COME all crappy and scuffy like this. Then they turn tan from exhaust and brake dust instantly. These are the same 9 1/2" magnesium Halibrands as the GT only I polish the outers and leave the centers natural.

Keep goin' man!

Edited July 8, 2010 by Cato

[LR3]

Doors: Are you using the bubble? I filled the recess in my driver door with two-part Bondo. Also be sure to install the door 'eyebrows' in the roof. I found they secure the doors more snugly when closed. The doors will sit higher than the roof a bit if you don't and that looks junky.

Almost forgot-a tip about the knockoffs. The rears have no 'cap' in the center-the bearing is way deep inside. If you want accurate knockoffs, drill the center of the two rear knockoffs. See mine and here's the 1:1 on my Cobra, same as GT.

Cato - post some shots of your 1:1 cobra, would love to see it. Doors - would have liked to fill in the bubble depression but I am not qualified to paint bodies so didn't. Won't drill the hub either - remember this is a fake from Rodeo Drive!

Got the little pieces back on, added the doors and bolted the cab down. Need to add water bottle for windshield washer and maybe I can think of some other street goodies?

[Cato]

Cato - post some shots of your 1:1 cobra, would love to see it. Doors - would have liked to fill in the bubble depression but I am not qualified to paint bodies so didn't. Won't drill the hub either - remember this is a fake from Rodeo Drive!

Got the little pieces back on, added the doors and bolted the cab down. Need to add water bottle for windshield washer and maybe I can think of some other street goodies?

Nonsense about the paint skills-the chassis and interior paint is flawless. It's gonna look really good in white-the Holman continuation cars are white, I love 'em.

OK-I finally gotcha about no 'racecar bad-boy stuff'. Did I harass you with too much 'reference' stuff? Sorry 'bout that.

Well-outside rear view mirrors would make it more 'streety'-actually I think the #7 (or #5, can't remember bleep) raced at '66 LeMans with them. After that, I shudder to think further about that...

Since you asked, here's my racecar now doing mostly street terror duty:

This is the same 427 SideOiler as in the GT with about 80HP more than they raced with. We have much more radical cams and cylinder heads these days and I have much more induction than the single 830 Holley it raced with. Only I haven't been to 210 MPH as they did! (155 at 6200 RPM)

Thanks for asking. I think I do better at 1:1 than 1:12. What do you say?

[LR3]

Oh my Gosh - that is some clean machine. If I had that I would not get out of it long enough to build models. If I was 40 years younger ----- would I have fun.

[LR3]

Interesting problem. A fuel hose has to come from the plate above the tank to the bottom of the first fuel pump on the left. Then the line continues to the bottom of pump 2. The cab bottom covers the lower pump inlet of number 1. Not much room down there. Seems like this area requires a notch, hole or I guess a non perfect modeler like me could just poke hoses behind the bulk head as no one can see this lower inlet. Any ideas?

Another problem is the wicking of CA glue down the woven line when trying to attach AN connections. Would white glue be a solution? The lines become stiff with the wicked glue.

Edited July 9, 2010 by LR3

[Cato]

Interesting problem. A fuel hose has to come from the plate above the tank to the bottom of the first fuel pump on the left. Then the line continues to the bottom of pump 2. The cab bottom covers the lower pump inlet of number 1. Not much room down there. Seems like this area requires a notch, hole or I guess a non perfect modeler like me could just poke hoses behind the bulk head as no one can see this lower inlet. Any ideas?

Another problem is the wicking of CA glue down the woven line when trying to attach AN connections. Would white glue be a solution? The lines become stiff with the wicked glue.

Can't answer the first problem-I didn't get up to that step yet. Yes, I think you can take any liberty you wish as the car is not a 'concours' build.

When I did the oil lines, I assembled the fittings to the cut line first painted them, then 'massaged' the stiff lines to their position and CA'd them in place.

Black vinyl hose like you used for the dry sump tank may be a better material to do the fuel hoses-only smaller diameters.

[LR3]

Thanks - think I will give tubing a try.

All six of these pumps can't be fuel related? Can you give a run down on function?

Would be nice to find an 1/8th scale Cobra kit wouldn't it?

Edited July 9, 2010 by LR3