LR3

I received an email asking where one can find the rod ends. They can be found on the new combined TDR website: https://sites.google.com/site/tdrinn...op/1-8-rodends They really work well. I used 5/8" scale for the radius rods and 3/8" scale for the Jacobs Ladder.

Attached the Jacobs Ladder to the rear shock mount on the axle. Probably puts too much strain on one component in real life but there wasn't much room here for tabs.

Never heard of a Jacob's Ladder until Ken Meaders sent me the 4 Bar drawings. Now I have one and as soon as the chassis tabs glue dries I will mount it.

Rod ends worked great. Made all the difference for attaching radius rods. AND I found a use for the 3/8th ones I bought by mistake. They will be used in the Jacobs Ladder I need for the rear axle - But I would much rather be working on a kit project. May have to buy your 6.1 Liter Hemi. Do you plan to offer the detail parts like the alternator in the latest fine grain material?

This scratch building requires too much planning and experimenting for an old guy. I am looking forward to digging up a nice kit for my next project. Anyway test fitting goes on with the radius rods, torsion bars, etc. Glad this is all bolted together because it has had to come apart time and again.

The back axle had the radius rod and shock mounts knocked off as it bounced around during handling of the frame the past few weeks. Just another reason to use TDR 's quick change instead of the old Deuce kit assembly. The good part is bolting the radius rods to the brackets allowed me to angle the brackets properly to reduce strain. I put everything in place before final gluing in of the rod ends. Fortunately no one will see the rear axle once the body is in place as I have hand painted it more than once while it rattled around back here and it needs one more coat. Notice the finely tuned and machined holding fixtures in place as the glue drys.

5/8th rod ends from TDR are on hand so I can size the radius rods and add installation tabs. Learned I should have had a plan. Should not have mounted front hubs yet. No room to get a wrench into place for the lower front rod bracket. Might have to just glue that bolt in place (maybe all bolts? doubt there is much spring in this chassis anyway) Nothing is locked up yet - just laying in place. Still some painting required.

Slathered on some putty. Looks like I painted myself into the proverbial corner. Now I know for sure I wont be able to have a chrome grill. Guess the entire nose cone of the Vintage version will be one color. Maybe I can figure something else out for the 4bar version.

No plan, just forging ahead with a grill. There must be better ways of doing this. Anyway made a loop from 10 gage copper wire. It looked like it stood out too much for the scale so tried some putty to act as a ledge inside the nose and also to maybe reduce the visual effect of the wire size. Don't know how to make a curved grill so laid some small wire on top and held it in place with masking tape. Soldered the wires. (ugly solder job) But files took care of the mess.

Put off opening the grill area as long as I could. First attempt will be on the original vintage part. Drew a rough outline, drilled a starting hole and inserted a jeweler saw. Tricky to hold part by hand while sawing. Broke blade on the first attempt but after a while you get the hang of it. Any better ideas would be appreciated before I cut up the 4 Bar body. The cut was not true to the drawing. But some repairs could be made by trying different rasps and files.

Just some wire I had laying around. This is a mix of parts and scratch built items to fit inside a Vintage Body from the Madd Fabricator. No action plan - just add a little here and there while waiting for the final body. I am getting ahead of myself because the more I add the more I am afraid will interfere with fitting everything inside the body.

Seeing as this will be open wheel with disk brakes I guess brake lines are in order. Kludged together a brake system. The master cylinder will probably be hidden by the seat module and I doubt the coupling to the front/back brake lines will be in view so I didn't spend time detailing them. The only thing that will be seen is the brake handle. Not really sure why I went to the effort.

Just to show the detail of the new material, here is a scale 1/4" bolt (cap/washer end and nut/washer end). It has a smooth finish and is smaller than the 9 on the dime.

I agree - there has to be more going on!

Used the Vintage version of the dash to test how instruments, ignition and fuel shut offs might look. Pretty simple dash requirement.