first try with resin

[Rudy2013]

Gonna have my first try with a resin body but it needs some body work first what kind of filler do you guys use ? will the white squadron putty work ? and some of the panel lines need to be cleaned up a bit can you just use a scriber like with a steyrene body ?

Thanks

[ZTony8]

You'll probably laugh(or cringe) but I've had good luck using regular Testor putty on resin bodies.I have some Starter 1/43 Ferraris in which I filled voids years ago,painted over, and the putty still hasn't shrunk.

Yes, a scriber will work on panel lines.

Edited May 12, 2015 by ZTony8

[JTalmage]

The BEST spot putty I've ever used, via a suggestion on here... is the 2 part Bondo brand putty you get from the auto parts store. There's typically 2 types when you're in the auto body/paint section... the 1 part, and the 2 part. the 2 part is the best. the 1 part I've had react w/ different paints and primers.

[spencer1984]

Seconding Jesse's suggestion, the Bondo 2-part glazing putty is great. For tiny cracks & pinholes, I like Tamiya's gray filler.

[astroracer]

I always stick with the 2 part automotive style fillers. It's just good practice to be consistant and I know for a fact they are compatible with ANY type of paint I want to use. I use USC's ICING almost exclusively anymore. No shrinking at all and it sands just like the resin which is an important factor when you are trying to level a surface. If the filler sands harder then the resin it is almost impossible to get them to feather out smoothly. Keep that in mind guys as you are working with all of these different fillers.

Scribing door lines goes much quicker in resin then in styrene so go slow and use very light pressure. I will also recommend making a template to guide the scriber until it gets a good groove made. Resin can have hard and soft spots in it which will make the scriber wander if it isn't controlled by a hard edge.

Mark

[Rudy2013]

ok thanks for the info ill get that straight edge out hands not as steady as it used to be lol

[Tom Geiger]

Rudy since this is your first resin and you didn't mention what car or resin caster, here's a bit of advise.

Resin bodies are often thicker than regular styrene bodies and sometimes the insides have imperfections. Clean the resin well BEFORE you do any body work or cleanup. Otherwise you may be embedding the mold release into the resin. Some folks will dunk the body in Wesleys White Wall Cleaner over night and then scrub it with a tooth brush and Dawn dish wash soap. When scrubbing it, you want to get into all the panel lines and things like air vents to make sure you have all the mold release.

Second, prior to doing any paint or committing anything to assembly, check to make sure that everything fits! Make sure that the interior tub fits the way it would a kit body. Otherwise do the work needed to make it fit. Most important is how the glass fits into the body as this is where I've had the most fit issues with resin. Check out how the resin body fits into the chassis, do the full stack of interior, chassis etc to find any fit issues. I've had resin interior tubs that needed to have the bottoms sanded to fit against the chassis. And try out hood fit, bumpers any trim etc. You want to be sure there are no surprises when you go for final assembly!