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Mickey Thompson's Challenger One. Still alive, Feb. 8


Ace-Garageguy

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Geez. I'm having enough trouble building one out of the box!

Thompson, the Arfons brothers and Breedlove were the last "Hot Rodder" land speed record holders building their cars from second hand and salvaged components without massive budgets or intrusive corporate sponsorship.

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Thanks for the interest, folks. Thompson was one of my heros, and I remember where I was and what I was doing when it came over the radio that he'd hit 406.6mph on the salt. Though the car broke and he was unable to make the return run for the official record, It just didn't matter. He'd done something many had thought to be impossible.

As Zenrat said " Thompson (was one of the last) "Hot Rodder" land speed record holders building their cars from second hand and salvaged components without massive budgets or intrusive corporate sponsorship." Still a hero in my book. The world needs more like him.

...... So what exactly are you doing here, building up the surfaces with filler then re-contouring them?

Yes sir, exactly. I'm trying to get the profile of those really pretty curves developed close to the left side of the car. They're very subtle and kinda tricky to get right. When I'm happy with the profile, I'll make transfer templates so I can make both sides match. Then, I'll go back and fill in from the outside edges to the correct width, then finally round all the contours till she looks right. The profile templates are absolutely necessary to keep it real though, in my opinion.

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  • 4 months later...

Closing in on the rough shaping and getting time for fine tuning...BUT...there are differences in the tail that are more pronounced than I'd first noticed, and some nose variations as well. Still trying to decide exactly which picture / date / configuration to model, but I'm pretty sure I'll go with the bare-alloy body, as introduced to the press (far right photo in post 13).

DSCN0672_zps1771c6c1.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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I was also thinking... it's so bitterly frustrating that M/T and his wife were murdered. He could have achieved so much more (and doubtless would have since at the time of his death in 1988 he was as creative, productive and committed as ever). And, as an old man who would have just turned 85 last week, with a lifetime of great work behind him, he would have deeply appreciated your approach to replicating one of his intuitive masterpieces.

I sincerely hope so. He was one of the major influences in my life, with a can-do-anything attitude and an intuitive grasp of engineering principles, and also the first to give credit and thanks to everyone who helped him achieve his remarkable successes.

mickeythompson.jpg

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Closing in on the rough shaping and getting time for fine tuning...BUT...there are differences in the tail that are more pronounced than I'd first noticed, and some nose variations as well. Still trying to decide exactly which picture / date / configuration to model, but I'm pretty sure I'll go with the bare-alloy body, as introduced to the press (far right photo in post 13).

DSCN0672_zps1771c6c1.jpg

Looks good. Is this the epoxy/micro-balloons filler you've mentioned. What type/brand of epoxy are you using? I've been using the 30 minute type popular with R/C. Yours looks like you got it to a paste consistency.

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...Is this the epoxy/micro-balloons filler you've mentioned. What type/brand of epoxy are you using? I've been using the 30 minute type popular with R/C. Yours looks like you got it to a paste consistency.

Mike, the first fills on the center panel, and on the left side of the car were done with micro and West 105/205 epoxy, which I had in stock for filling 1:1 aviation parts. I mix it by weight on a gram scale to get the same consistency every time, but it's not necessary for a model. I used it during some 1:1 fill work, just to use up the remainder in the cup, and because I was a little concerned with adhesion of polyester fillers to this particular plastic (especially on the center hood section), and shrinkage.

All the copy-work filling to contour on the right side of the car has been done with 2-part polyester glazing putty. Even 2-part putty shrinks a little as it cures, and it's introduced some minor warpage into some of the thinner body panels. I inadvertently broke a couple of the internal fixtures during handling, and I was disappointed to see that my perfectly-fitted body panels no longer fit perfectly after filling. They will have to be pinned with removable fastenings to get everything to line up to my satisfaction on final assembly.

Using epoxy and micro SHOULD avoid shrinkage-induced warpage, but the West system takes 12 hours to cure. Though it's not the material to use if you're in a hurry, it sticks very well with no shrinkage. It also sands and feather-edges exceptionally well. I haven't yet tried micro and the 30-minute RC epoxy.

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  • 1 month later...

I just haven't been hitting the right look...so I made a blowup of a side-shot of the car in almost 1/25 scale. It's been a big help in analyzing why my model wasn't looking quite right...

DSCN0880_zps840e79ea.jpg

...and low and behold, the problem in front is that the fender fits the tire MUCH more closely than the blown-car fender (supplied correctly in the kit, but having a full skirt / fairing to streamline the nose further), so to I'm adding material in .010" strips (there will probably be 3 required) to the inside of the wheel arch. This is going to let me bring the top of the fender down to match the photo, smooth out the top of the curve, and will also allow the height of the fender bulges off of the center panel of the car to match the photos

DSCN0904_zpsc8eb04b5.jpg.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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excellent work!

as for Mickey, I heard once about a part failing, causing MT to not get the return run speed required, when interviewed afterward he simply stated it was driver error. Mickey said you don't throw you sponsors/backers/manufactures under the bus, they are the ones allowing you to race!

a true pioneer!

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..as for Mickey, I heard once about a part failing, causing MT to not get the return run speed required, when interviewed afterward he simply stated it was driver error. Mickey said you don't throw you sponsors/backers/manufactures under the bus, they are the ones allowing you to race!

Yes, the story that was released at the time blamed a broken driveshaft / axle for the failure to make the required return run to clinch the world record. The more recent version has it that one of the Pontiac-supplied engines blew up...possibly due to a missed shift (the linkage to the 4 geaboxes was extremely complex as well) and like you said, it wouldn't have been prudent to poke Pontiac in the eye in return for sponsorship. B)

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Hey Bill. Something I noticed in comparing the model with the photo. Let me first say I am not knocking your build, we all know you can build. But to me the tail section seems wrong on the model. It appears to drop down on a angle whereas the real machine seems to be more horizontal. I could be wrong, maybe it's the angle ?? Again, not knocking your build.

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Hey Bill. Something I noticed in comparing the model with the photo...But to me the tail section seems wrong on the model. It appears to drop down on a angle whereas the real machine seems to be more horizontal. I could be wrong, maybe it's the angle ??

:) You have a good eye and you're absolutely right. The tail is still a work-in-progress, and what you see is exactly what's wrong at the moment. The rear of the car is entirely different from the supercharged car too, and it lacks the vents to help pull the chute out, among other things. It's also wider and more squared off at the extreme end, and the lower center part protrudes more.

I had such a devil of a time getting the nose figured out that I haven't focused on the tail yet...just a few wipes with bondo to give me something to sculpt.

I appreciate your observation, and if you spot anything else that looks wrong, please feel free to bring it to my attention. I really want to get this as close to looking like Thompson's car as humanly possible, and other eyes may very well notice something I've overlooked. :)

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I'm just amazed at the workmanship. My box stock build is stalled at the moment. Work, life, paint time, etc. I'm to the point I want to get the body fitting together as closely as yours. Yours is looking great! Keep at it - can't wait to see the finished car.

randy

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It's funny; there was a discussion elsewhere on the forum regarding how armor modelers are so much more serious about fidelity to the 1:1 subject. Those rivet counters got nothin' on you, Bill ;) !

I'm really enjoying watching you bring this beautiful creation to life. Ive enjoyed the history lesson, too.

Edited by Shardik
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I just read through this entire thread. I knew very little about the car, let alone that there were so many variations. The amount of variations did not surprise me, though, because many vehicles back then went through running changes until they were correct or, at least, better. The die-hard attitudes the builders of these machines had has always fascinated me. To have a seemingly "finished" vehicle, take it and run it, decide it's not good enough then take it home, tear it all apart and in some cases start over - that is dedication.

Then take into account that many of these vehicles were "home made" with, in some cases, 20-30 year old components (LaSalle transmissions for one) and what these men were able to accomplish was nothing short of incredible. It truly was the romantic age of automotive racing. Of course, advancements in technology has led to faster and fancier machines, but it's nothing I can relate to.

Bill: There are other builders that are revered for their eye candy but many times feature obvious mechanical errors that are always dismissed and brushed under the rug, Every time I see a thread by you it puts a smile on my face because I know I'm in for a treat. Yes, I enjoy the subjects you choose but just as much I enjoy your dedication to quality and fidelity.

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Wonderful work as always Bill !

As to the rear section ; have you considered taking a tiny sliver of a pie-cut out of it ? The wider part of the pie piece would be from the top . This would elevate the rear slightly .This might get rid of the models "droopy"look in the rear and perhaps be closer to your reference photo.

I'm not sure whether this is even possible without creating some kind of interference with the rearmost frame section(or requiring unrealistic frame alterations).

Just a suggestion that may or may not be practical.

Edited by doggie427
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