Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Fairlady 240Z full works with a RB26DETT from Fujimi


lanesteele240

Recommended Posts

I was going to drop a chevy LS1 in this bigboy but i changed my mind and bought a Skyline R32 with a RB26DETT.

70539A31-6810-481E-A29C-8F6B2031B93E-1227-0000023298626BD3.jpg

Dont know how this got flipped upsidedown

86440EC3-51A7-4A8C-B552-9FE8193C7E14-3672-00000467048942AD.jpg

Here is the fender flairs

D55EB112-D42F-4FC9-AC2E-6775981582F3-3672-00000466E14F2385.jpg

They would be great for a kit bash because the car can be built with or without.

I already cut the hood out wile watching a football game

AD594D3C-6E76-4E59-87ED-1BCCDC46F9B5-3672-00000466E85CDE92.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should have got Tamiya's R32. Fully detailed RB26.

Yes i know. Did not find out this was one of those fake 1/2 engins till i opened it. I have a plan though. The valve cover from the Rb will fit on the kit engine and all the other stuff will fit too. So it is just gonna look like a RB. I also have some resin turbos and intercooler on the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

loosly translated. it should say very advanced modeler. the fender flairs are super thin and hard to work with.

I hear that! I bought a Fujimi universal fender flare kit and to say that they are hard to work with is an understatement. They are thin, full of flash, and need to be shapped/molded and custom fit to each aplication. I guess that is what custom building is all about :P . I'm a little surprised that the flares suplied with the kit were tempermental, but not really. As jbwelda pointed out, you nailed. Keep up the good work,it's looking good!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1173C0EA-222A-475C-9AF6-30A37F8F0BC8-14240-00001110BD570449.jpg

made a front air cover

109D0746-8C46-48E3-B563-4F73BC235114-14240-00001110B27F70E6.jpg

started in on the radiator support area

EF36A2BA-C376-49AA-AF36-C253A7087233-14240-000011109E1F6DB7.jpg

rad support with a strip added to the fire wall.

D1AA87FA-0123-4DBF-8038-8E334F95CEE7-14240-000011108C4FBC71.jpg

made some more interior covers for the tunnel.

F79DB45D-CD4D-4AB7-AD8A-EE3499ED28D3-14240-00001110755E5E93.jpg

kit bashed a master clyender and added some break and fule lines to a bland engine bay

1C71DF01-EBDE-4DF2-9E7F-8E1ED8B32123-14240-000011106A9DB721.jpg

bottom of the car with lines made of evergreen rod

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats pretty interesting you made your brake lines from tiny plastruct rod. i will try that one of these days instead of the aluminum rod i typically use.

as for decals i am partial to less is more...i would think some japanese safety stickers and maybe some small graphics or something...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jb. i use the styrene rod because i HATE ca glue. i cant get metal or pe parts to work. i never get good results but always glue my fingers to something and make a huge mess that is hard to clean up. i am howevere good at cleaning up tamiya extra thin glue. a hair dryer works well to warm the rod so it wont break. open flame is bad becaue the glue would be a bomb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The paint scheme is based of the Nissan works car

Cool! Neve knew this kit was based on a real car. With so many ficitonal Tunner car kits out there, I just assumed it was another one of those.

Peter Brock and Bob Sharp never ran the ZG nose on their 240Z.

But what if they did.......With RB26DETT POWER :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...