New Hobbyist: 1st car: '66 Shelby Mustang GT350H

[MrSnuffle]

Hi there! Just registered today, and I am glad to find a forum like this . This is a new hobby for me: I literally just came back from the store about 2 hours ago with my first kit: A '66 Shelby Mustang GT350H from Revell. I had also bought separately a Testers paint kit which included the glues, sand paper, brushes, and a knife. I never did model making before, however I did goto art school (graduated in 2001). But anyway I'm going to try to do this thing from start to finish. However I have run into a few stumbling blocks.

I have cleaned the plastic pieces in soap and water, and was about to start assembling. The first step they said was to place the rear-view mirror on the windshield (I found instruction plans online here: http://www.revell.com/Instruction-Plans.in...amdownloads_pi1[showUid]=2578&tx_damdownloads_pi1[swords]=85248200200 (you'll have to copy and paste it into the header window, I couldn;t get the post link to work) . The windshield however has a really small hole for the mirror to go into, and Im afraid I may have to glue it on: There is this bottle of clear part cement in the testers kit. the rear view mirror however is plastic chrome. Could I use this to just glue it onto the windshield? If not does anyone recommend anything else?

My second question involves painting. After I finish painting with enamel, what should I use to clean the brushes with?

Finally, the kit also came with sand-paper. I'm not entirely sure what to do with this. What is it gernerally used for?

Thanks a lot for everyone's help

[MrObsessive]

Okay...........There's a bit of ground to cover here, so I'll try not to overload you with too much.

For starters, it's a good idea NOT to use model cement around clear plastic parts! The solvents in the glue will permanently scar the clear because it too is made from styrene. To attach something to a clear part such as a mirror or whatnot, it's best to use 5 min. epoxy (2 part) or some guys have gotten away with something as simple as white glue such as Elmer's..........but this is not quite as strong.

It's always a good idea for if you're going to glue something that has chrome on it to scrape the chrome away from the area to be joined to get the best adhesion.

You mention that you got brushes for painting...................however for painting bodies you may want to try practicing spray painting first as that will give you the best finish even though your new at this. Testor's makes a variety of hobby paints of the actual car color, but as I mention practice will make perfect here. If you have some scrap poster board or some other item this would be good. The brushes you got would be good for painting small parts such as maybe the engine block, interior pieces, etc.

Any type of lacquer or hobby enamel thinner should clean the brushes................you may want to purchase a couple hobby airbrush jars with lids and pour some of the thinner in that to clean your brushes.

The sandpaper................Hmmmmmmm................I generally don't care for hobby store sandpapers. I really hate that plastic backing on it they use. It's cheaper to go to the hardware store and pick up some 400-600 grit sandpaper for bodywork. They're good however for getting rid of parting lines, blending body contours together such as front and rear fascias, etc.

After you get proficient with painting.........there's something called polishing cloths which when used properly will give your paint job a glass like shine.

That's for much later down the road though..............

[MrSnuffle]

Wow, thanks for the input. This sounds like a lot of fun!. There is a local hobby store that probably sells the spray paints like you mentioned. And I know you can get 5 minute epoxy cheap at home depot. When spraying the paint onto the body, am I doing it in one long strokes or short bursts? Or does it even matter?

Also, the decals that came with the package look like they have adhesive on the back. I read somewhere that using a toothpick to drop water on back of the decals will help position it to where you want to and let them dry. Is this the right way of doing things? And should I scratch or sand paper the area where the decals are going?

Thanks again

Okay...........There's a bit of ground to cover here, so I'll try not to overload you with too much.

For starters, it's a good idea NOT to use model cement around clear plastic parts! The solvents in the glue will permanently scar the clear because it too is made from styrene. To attach something to a clear part such as a mirror or whatnot, it's best to use 5 min. epoxy (2 part) or some guys have gotten away with something as simple as white glue such as Elmer's..........but this is not quite as strong.

It's always a good idea for if you're going to glue something that has chrome on it to scrape the chrome away from the area to be joined to get the best adhesion.

You mention that you got brushes for painting...................however for painting bodies you may want to try practicing spray painting first as that will give you the best finish even though your new at this. Testor's makes a variety of hobby paints of the actual car color, but as I mention practice will make perfect here. If you have some scrap poster board or some other item this would be good. The brushes you got would be good for painting small parts such as maybe the engine block, interior pieces, etc.

Any type of lacquer or hobby enamel thinner should clean the brushes................you may want to purchase a couple hobby airbrush jars with lids and pour some of the thinner in that to clean your brushes.

The sandpaper................Hmmmmmmm................I generally don't care for hobby store sandpapers. I really hate that plastic backing on it they use. It's cheaper to go to the hardware store and pick up some 400-600 grit sandpaper for bodywork. They're good however for getting rid of parting lines, blending body contours together such as front and rear fascias, etc.

After you get proficient with painting.........there's something called polishing cloths which when used properly will give your paint job a glass like shine.

That's for much later down the road though..............

[Abell82]

When spraying the paint onto the body, am I doing it in one long strokes or short bursts? Or does it even matter?

Also, the decals that came with the package look like they have adhesive on the back. I read somewhere that using a toothpick to drop water on back of the decals will help position it to where you want to and let them dry. Is this the right way of doing things? And should I scratch or sand paper the area where the decals are going?

Thanks again

1.) Start spraying before you get to the part, and stop spraying after you get passed the part.

2.) I'm not sure what package you are talking about for the decals? The Revell kit should have included water slide decals. This means that you will have to cut them out dip them in water and wait about 35-45 seconds to move them off the paper. Dabbing a little water on the model part the decal is being applied to is a good idea, and will help positioning.

This is how I do it, I am sure there are other ways!! HTH.

[Abell82]

When spraying the paint onto the body, am I doing it in one long strokes or short bursts? Or does it even matter?

Also, the decals that came with the package look like they have adhesive on the back. I read somewhere that using a toothpick to drop water on back of the decals will help position it to where you want to and let them dry. Is this the right way of doing things? And should I scratch or sand paper the area where the decals are going?

Thanks again

1.) Start spraying before you get to the part, and stop spraying after you get passed the part.

2.) I'm not sure what package you are talking about for the decals? The Revell kit should have included water slide decals. This means that you will have to cut them out dip them in water and wait about 35-45 seconds to move them off the paper. Dabbing a little water on the model part the decal is being applied to is a good idea, and will help positioning.

This is how I do it, I am sure there are other ways!! HTH.

[m408]

Just a couple of ideas from a not so advanced builder.

1- As has been said, use the brushes for little parts. Spray cans aren't tough. If I can use them, anyone can.

2- Since the steps needed to do a decent paint job are so time consuming, as in drying time between coats, I try to get the body work and first coat of paint/primer on before I do anything else. Keeps the build going instead of watching paint dry. This also keeps me from getting antsy and rushing the paint steps.

[mr moto]

Hi, Mr. Snuffle. I love the name! Anyway, I don't know where you're located but I would recommend that you check the "Model Car Clubs" section of the forum and see if there are any clubs in your area. If so, I'm sure that they would enjoy demonstrating what to do and answering any questions that you can come up with. Good luck! I hope you enjoy this hobby as much as the rest of us.