vintagedragfan Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 nice Ray, every time you make a part you are one step closer buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I'm out of breath watching this come to be. Much of what you're doing I keep in mind to work even in my smaller scale! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Thanks, guys. I bought the jewlers saw previously for cutting pearl to do inlay work on the guitars. After I drilled the king pin holes, I slipped the tie rod arm template over the king pin, located it, drilled & pinned & traced it's outline. Just have to whittle it all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Roughed it in on the bandsaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Fantastic workmanship ! Can't wait to see this thing finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Thanks, Ray, glad you're enjoying. Pinned both sides back to back, along with the arm template, clamped in the vise & roughing in the shape with a coarse rat tail file. By working multiple parts at one time, it simplifies my ability to have visually matching pieces from side to side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 (edited) First fit. Getting there. There is contact between the tie rod arm & axle. This shows how much I still need to trim it down to match the plastic piece. Edited September 13, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futurattraction Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Thanks, Ray, glad you're enjoying. Pinned both sides back to back, along with the arm template, clamped in the vise & roughing in the shape with a coarse rat tail file. By working multiple parts at one time, it simplifies my ability to have visually matching pieces from side to side. Been there, done that... lol Both sides have got to match! You're making nice progress, Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 have you tried heating the aluminum while shaping it to your form? (I'm just shooting in the dark here but maybe softening it a bit with heat may reduce stress cracking) the other option would be milling (or just cutting/filing) these pieces from thicker aluminum plate. (these options may have already been thought of and discarded...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 very nice work Ray, looks like you have really been thinking things through before jumping in and doing it, it seems to be paying off, it is looking really good my friend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoparWoman Jamie Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 (edited) I hope you don't mind me asking, but what did you use to attach the fittings together on the front axle? Edited September 16, 2013 by M0par Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 (edited) Thanks, Scott. Mike, my solution is to find a source for one of these 2 grades of aluminum in sheet, in small quantities. So far, locally, no one seems to have it. I'm going to need it for shaping the body panels on the model & it'll be good for bending small parts like the spindle bosses, as well. 1100 This grade is commercially pure aluminum. It is soft and ductile and has excellent workability. It is ideal for applications involving intricate forming because it work hardens more slowly than other alloys. It is the most weldable of aluminum alloys, by any method. It is non heat-treatable. It has excellent resistance to corrosion and is widely used in the chemical and food processing industries. It responds well to decorative finishes which make it suitable for giftware. or 3003 This is the most widely used of all aluminum alloys. It is essentially commercially pure aluminum with the addition of manganese which increases the strength some 20% over the 1100 grade. Thus, it has all the excellent characteristics of 1100 with higher strength. It has excellent corrosion resistance. It has excellent workability and it may be deep drawn or spun, welded or brazed. It is non heat treatable. Applications: cooking utensils, decorative trim, awnings, siding, storage tanks, chemical equipment. Thanks, Bill. How've you been? Ya, I put a lot of thought/visualization time in on stuff like this. Develop a clear, sharp picture in my mind of the process first. Hey Jim, don't mind you asking at all. I'm using centering punches & drill bits for hanging the spindles at this point. I've got music wire in the same size that I'll cut for the actual king pins, at final assembly. Edited September 18, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 (edited) Cutting more parts. Due to the interferance between the tie rod arm and the axle, as shown above, I'm modifying the part to lower the tie rod arm in relation to the inward slant of the axle as it drops...giving more room for the arm to rotate. Small hose is attached to an aquarium aerator to keep saw residue blown away...from obscuring my cut line. Edited September 19, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 (edited) Blocks are being added along with a new tie rod arm. Upper arm will be eliminated. Dimensions are 3/16 total drop = 1 1/2" lower at 1:1 This will allow this much more available travel for the arm. Now we can achieve a believable right turn position with the spindle/tire. Edited September 19, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futurattraction Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 It's looking real good, Ray. I really enjoy watching your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoparWoman Jamie Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 I think you miss my question my friend, I was wondering what did you use to attach the round stock to the other round stock on the front cross member. It looks like super glue, but was wanting to make sure though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) I misunderstood your question, sorry. Thanks, Tom. I stuck it together with super glue before removing it from the assembly jig. I use a product that I get from my lutherie supply house that I'm quite impressed with. My plan, from early on, after watching a guy tig weld a .003" coca cola can with no blow through, is to tig the thing together. I don't use credit cards, so until I accumulate the cash for a welder I'm using this. After having done several strength tests on aluminum, I feel confident that It will allow me to proceed with shaping & fitting all of the parts without everying falling apart in my lap. Acetone is an excellent de-bonder for this glue, so when the welder shows up, simple matter to prep the parts for welding. I'm keeping all of my jigs intact to simplify the weld up at that time. Edited September 22, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 22, 2013 Author Share Posted September 22, 2013 (edited) It's looking real good, Ray. I really enjoy watching your progress. Thanks, Scott. My favorite threads are where there are a lot of shots illustrating how a part is made...machined aluminum engines, for example...beautiful to see...more exciiting when they show how it's jigged up, in process, for different cuts etc. So my inclination is to show all of the down & dirty steps I have to go through to develope a part. It actually helps my thought process to write about it & be able to see it out in front of me, if that makes any sense. Edited September 22, 2013 by Ognib Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoparWoman Jamie Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 Thanks, Scott. My favorite threads are where there are a lot of shots illustrating how a part is made...machined aluminum engines, for example...beautiful to see...more exciiting when they show how it's jigged up, in process, for different cuts etc. So my inclination is to show all of the down & dirty steps I have to go through to develope a part. It actually helps my thought process to write about it & be able to see it out in front of me, if that makes any sense. Man, we must be thinking a like. That's how I feel on projects as well. BTW thanks for the answer to my question I had asked. It's easy to misunderstand something.. I should have been more clear with my question before too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futurattraction Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 (edited) Thanks Ray. I love seeing the step-by-step process. Unfortunately, I'm not as good at following that advice in documenting my own build... Edited September 23, 2013 by futurattraction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 Jim, two great minds thinking alike. lol Scott, everyone has their own methods. I've been enjoying your reporting on your current project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Thought I'd drop in & say howdy to everyone who's been following the thread. Life gets in the way sometimes. Haven't touched the project in several weeks. Keep a couple of parts out so I see them daily. Back on it soon. best to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagedragfan Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 glad to hear Ray, I was getting worried about ya, I know the feeling!! too much life not enough play!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Had a couple of major disasters that affected my finances. Had to un-retire myself & re-establish a cash flow. Took every bit of time & energy I could muster. But, after a year, I went into the shop this morning & started digging through all my stuff...see what I have on hand to work with. I've lost my mental continuity on this project, so it'll take some time to get back in the groove. Probably the most straight forward place to start will be to build the right side header for the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ognib Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 I have current pics from the last couple of days. They are in my photobucket acct. I've up graded my computer with a solid state hard drive & different operating system. Still learning how to work with it...no success yet in trying to load pics in a post here. Soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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