Problems with my '99 Silverado custom model kit.

[addicted2modeling]

I used Krylon Fusion Clear Coat for plastics and what a mess it made my truck to be. What can I do to fix this mess? To be honest my truck was better off with the polished basecoat than with the applied Krylon Fusion Clear Coat for plastics. I applied clear coat so I can protect my decals and finish. The Silverado custom model kit was painted with Dupli Color scratch filler primer purchased from Auto Zone and the base coat was Tamiya's TS-53, Deep Metallic Blue. So sad my model truck looks horrible now. Any help in restoring this model kit would be gladly appreciated. I tried to do the polishing with Meguiar's Ultimate compound to fix it, but it was limited, I still see an orange peel finish. Enclose is the picture of the truck before the clear coat application.

Edited September 12, 2014 by addicted2modeling

[Mike Kucaba]

What a shock, mixing THREE different brands of paint and getting the results you got. Get some paint stripper(see pinned topic about strippers) and start all over. Hope it all goes well next time.

[martinfan5]

Stay away Krylon Fusion paint, get a bottle of Super Clean, or AKA, Purple Power/cleaner, dont get the the knock off brand in the white jug, its not as strong.

[highway]

The first problem is you used Krylon!! After I had a Krylon paint attack a model probably 20 years ago, I never have used another Krylon product.

Seriously though, I would probably say, not knowing the Krylon for plastics paint, it was probably a lacquer based paint and the it attacked the Tamiya base coat. Since it is formulated for plastics, it is probably like hobby grade lacquers and not a "hot" lacquer and why you got bad orange peel and not crazing. Unfortunately, probably the only choice you are going to have is strip the paint (and say bye bye decals ) and redo it.

As a rule, I always use (or try to anyway) the same brand clear as the base coat. That way I know that it will be compatible and not ruin the paint job. The only exceptions to that rule is primers, even though I try to use auto grade primers like DupliColor when possible but the cheap dollar store or Walmart primers do just as good, and combinations I know from prior use will work without harming the undercoat. Whenever it does come to a combination I have not tried before, I'll test it on a spare body or a part like the hood before doing the whole body to make sure there will not be a result like your unfortunate problem. A good case in point of where I have never used a certain combination and where I made sure I bought the same brand for the final paint job is a custom Ford big rig I'm still in the process of finishing. The primer coats were whatever I had on hand, because the custom sleeper required much body work, sand, prime, repeat to get the look I wanted, but when it came to the custom Rustoleum Colorshift paint job that also required a black basecoat, everything from the basecoat to the clear had to be Rustoleum. There was no way I was going to have the $60 custom paint job get ruined!

[redneckrodder]

The first problem is you used Krylon!! After I had a Krylon paint attack a model probably 20 years ago, I never have used another Krylon product.

Seriously though, I would probably say, not knowing the Krylon for plastics paint, it was probably a lacquer based paint and the it attacked the Tamiya base coat. Since it is formulated for plastics, it is probably like hobby grade lacquers and not a "hot" lacquer and why you got bad orange peel and not crazing. Unfortunately, probably the only choice you are going to have is strip the paint (and say bye bye decals ) and redo it.

As a rule, I always use (or try to anyway) the same brand clear as the base coat. That way I know that it will be compatible and not ruin the paint job. The only exceptions to that rule is primers, even though I try to use auto grade primers like DupliColor when possible but the cheap dollar store or Walmart primers do just as good, and combinations I know from prior use will work without harming the undercoat. Whenever it does come to a combination I have not tried before, I'll test it on a spare body or a part like the hood before doing the whole body to make sure there will not be a result like your unfortunate problem. A good case in point of where I have never used a certain combination and where I made sure I bought the same brand for the final paint job is a custom Ford big rig I'm still in the process of finishing. The primer coats were whatever I had on hand, because the custom sleeper required much body work, sand, prime, repeat to get the look I wanted, but when it came to the custom Rustoleum Colorshift paint job that also required a black basecoat, everything from the basecoat to the clear had to be Rustoleum. There was no way I was going to have the $60 custom paint job get ruined!

would you be talking about your big blue one

[addicted2modeling]

The decals are not a big concern to especially the flames, I'm fine without them. So basically I have to start all over? This time I know I will NEVER buy a Krylon clear coat for plastics no more.

[addicted2modeling]

Will brake fluid work as well? I used brake fluid when I used Testor's enamel gloss cream color on my seats. I was highly dissatisfied with the paint so I submerged them in brake fluid and scrub some paint off and it took it very well, but I don't know about the body if its ok or not.

[Fabrux]

The decals are not a big concern to especially the flames, I'm fine without them. So basically I have to start all over? This time I know I will NEVER buy a Krylon clear coat for plastics no more.

Yes, you have to start over. Brake fluid will also work. Never say never to the Krylon; if you used a Krylon primer and a Krylon base coat, you will not have this same problem. This is not an inherent problem with the clear coat itself: it is the reaction between the two different brands and types of paint.

[Ace-Garageguy]

The FIRST problem was painting a model you care about BEFORE you TESTED the paint material on an identical surface, or over identical undercoats. Many of us on the forum have been harping and harping on the concept of TEST FIRST.

Sorry this happened to you, but it's a good lesson. TEST FIRST.

Fusion WILL craze MANY of the polystyrene plastics models are made from these days, and it WILL react badly with some other basecoats or paints, AND YOU WON'T KNOW UNTIL YOU RUIN SOMETHING.

TEST FIRST.

[highway]

would you be talking about your big blue one

Well actually it's only blue in certain light! Yes, that is the one I was reffering to, though. The Rustoleum Color shift I used on both the cab and the frame was $20 a can when I started that project, and now nearly $25 a can, and it took one and a half cans for the hood, cab, and sleeper and almost a whole can for the frame, and that doesn't include the price of the black undercoat for the color shifting effect and the primer or clear coat. All total I probably have close to $80 wrapped up in the paints for that paint job.

[redneckrodder]

Well actually it's only blue in certain light! Yes, that is the one I was reffering to, though. The Rustoleum Color shift I used on both the cab and the frame was $20 a can when I started that project, and now nearly $25 a can, and it took one and a half cans for the hood, cab, and sleeper and almost a whole can for the frame, and that doesn't include the price of the black undercoat for the color shifting effect and the primer or clear coat. All total I probably have close to $80 wrapped up in the paints for that paint job.

wow the most ive ever spent on a paint job was like 10 bucks

[Wagoneer81]

I try to stay with one painting system during a project. If my base coat is Testors enamel, I use Testors clear coats. Their clear lacquer is "cool" enough, being specially formulated for models, that it can be sprayed over Testors enamel paint without harm. If you use Duplicolor, I'd use their clear as well... The only thing to look out for is that in Duplicolors' line, It's my understanding that their truck and van paint is lacquer based but their automotive colors are enamel... Confused yet? If you want a surefire gloss clear coat that will go over almost ANY paint, get a bottle of Pledge with Future Shine, floor polish. The stuff is pure acrylic clear coat and will shine up nicely and protect and seal decals without issue. I've used it over lacquer and enamel and never had any issues.

[kilrathy10]

You know, you may not have to strip it at all....Just get some Future floor polish and BRUSH that over it.....A lot of times, it fills in those little tiny imperfections that make it look like a dull coat.....It's worth a shot.....If it doesn't work, THEN I'd get to stipping.....