Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

25 Ford Model-T Tow Truck - update: 05/11/13


Recommended Posts

Thanks for hanging with me guys. I certainly appreciate the good words.

David, I really appreciate the advice on the dye. Just painting on the dye that I'm using seems like it will do the job. I just re-read the label and it actually says fabric paint and seems more like craft store acrylic paint that anything else. Next time I have occasion to color some nylon, I think I'll give you advice a try; sounds much more durable, and the proper way to go.

Now I'm trying to decide what to do with the motor to step it up a notch. The whole assembly is only 7 pieces :o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for checking in Bill, and thanks for the offer, but I'm taking the easy way out on the top; styrene fabric all the way. Durable and easy to clean.

I'd bring this to the Slammers meeting, but it's not fit to travel. Still a collection of loose parts.

Now get back to your soldering iron, or in your case, mini-tig.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What color do you plan to paint it Alyn?

Corey

I want it to be a dark color, and just happen to have a partial can of Krylon Hunter Green; so that works for me.

The paint is a matte finish, so it will require a gloss clear coat. I did a test shot and the green lifted after a somewhat wet coat of clear acrylic laquer. I'll need so it not so wet, or switch to a water based acrylic such as future.

thanks for asking

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the compliment, Art

Hope everyone is enjoying the holidays. My week off is almost over and I certainly don't have much 25 Model-T building to show for it. :mellow:

Here's what I do have. This build is broken down into several sub-assemblies; the tub, top, bed, wrecker boom, fenders, engine & chassis.I'm trying to get the fabrication work done on each one before getting into any paint. Not even primer unless it's needed for the fabrication. The wrecker boom is pretty much complete. I wanted to wrap up the bed as well, so I needed to address the tailgate.

I soldered a short piece of brass tube to some sheet brass and fastened that to the rear of the bed.

Img_6400b.jpg?psid=1

For the other half of the hinge, two strips of brass were fitted the the tailgate. Each strip has a small section of tube soldered to the lower end. A thin brass rod slides through all the tubing to create the hinge. You can see the rivets on the right hand strap, but this may change to bolts.

Img_6397b.jpg?psid=1

A chain supports the tailgate in the open position

Img_6382b.jpg?psid=1

In the closed position, the hook is used to keep the tailgate up.

Img_6385b.jpg?psid=1

That finishes the fab work on the bed. The radiator also got some attention. In all the research photos, there's a large tank at the upper rear of the radiator, so I used some styrene strips to add that to the kit piece. The tank as pictured isn't finished. It will get a rear panel to finish it off.

Img_6411b.jpg?psid=1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been following this build (quietly), and I must say your attention to detail is inspiring. Also, I like the way you work; treating each sub assembly as a model in itself. The results of this approach are clearly a superior whole.

Thanks for the eye candy and inspiration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your interest.

Johann, comments like yours are inspiring as well. I appreciate the sentiment.

Here's a little detail you might enjoy. I just finished (for the third time) the radiator cap tonight. Not actually finished, but close. The first attempt consisted of a base made from 3/32" brass rod roughly 1/8" high. The center of this piece was narrowed with jewelers files with one end being the base and the opposite end a platform for the wings and site glass. I filed some flats into the site glass end to create a hex shape and then filed a groove across the top to provide a firm seat for the wing. The wing is simply a small diameter brass rod with each end curved and filed to a flattened point. The site glass "was" a sliver of 3/32" brass tubing set up on it's edge.

After several attempts trying to keep these three pieces in alignment while I soldered, I lost the site glass part. I built another one and went through several more attempts to get everything in alignment. Once the pieces were finally together, I filed away the excess solder and the followed up with fine sandpaper, finer sandpaper, Dupont rubbing compound and then metal polish. When it was almost finished, the site glass part broke off and commenced to play hide-and-seek on my cement floor. It won

I gave up on the three piece design. The new version consisted of a base of 3/32" brass rod. The site glass and wings were created as one piece by bending a loop in the small diameter rod with the ends of the loop crossing over and extending to each side to serve as the wings. This was easier to solder into position. The downside of both designs is that the solder covered up all the work I did to create the hex top.

Here's how it sits now. I can see in the picture that some more filing is in order. This will then have to be followed up with another round of sanding and polishing. I will also be shaping and polishing a piece of clear styrene to fit into the center of the brass loop (site glass).

Pretty simple update, but it was a lot of effort for such a small part.

Mock-Up:

Img_6418b.jpg?psid=1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your "Saga of the Sight Glass" is a familiar tale to most of us; just as hours of meticulous labor are coming to fruition, the last step goes south and you have to start all over again :wacko: . (it took me four tries to fabricate and install a piano hinge on my '37 Ford)

Looks like your perseverance paid off nicely. I second Charlies recommendation, and would add Micro Kristal Klear (sp?) to the list.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, guys. Mike, sorry I didn't catch you comment on the last go round. Thanks for the compliment, but remember, Bill ("Billuminum") Davis and many other seriously excellent builders (John Smiley comes to mind) haunt the Midwest area.

Got some work done on the engine. I was wrong earlier with the "7 parts" statement. This engine only has 6. So far, I've added around 30 with plenty more to go.

The kit 4-banger doesn't have a starter motor. Some of the real Model-T's had starters and generators and some didn't. I scratch built both from styrene rod. Here's the starter. It's a pretty basic piece:

Img_6377b.jpg?psid=1

The kit motor has the lower radiator coolant tube molded into the side of the block. Not very realistic to say the least. I ground most of it away with a Dremel tool, and then used a #11 blade to carve the front cylinders back into reasonable shape. After filing the output elbow, a rod was inserted to help align the new brass coolant tube that will take it's place. You can also see the extensions on the front of the motor to accommodate a fan belt and the bosses on the transmission where the pedals will attach. They need some further trimming.

IMG_6426b.jpg?psid=1

On the other side, I added a generator; another simple collection of styrene rods, and what I assume is an oiling assembly in front of it (with cap).

IMG_6423b.jpg?psid=1

for a final installment, here's another attempt at the tailgate rivets. I found some brass brads that had a head diameter slightly smaller than the brass plated straight pins. These looked reasonable to me, so they were shortened and super glued in place.

IMG_6432b.jpg?psid=1

Regarding the site glass for the radiator cap, I've already carved up a chunk of clear sprue to a rough fit. With a little more work and maybe a dip in Future, it should look pretty good.

Edited by Alyn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alyn, I spent a good chunk of this morning drooling over Bill's Aluminum Hemi, I want to know what's in the water out there, all of you guys are just sick...maybe I should have stayed in the Midwest. Nah, I like warm weather and the beach too much!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...