Purple Power not working. Next step?

[sjordan2]

Using Purple Power, I'm stripping paint from a kit I got on eBay that has been partially painted. After 36 hours, most of the topcoat color has gone away, but there is a heavy layer of red paint or red primer underneath, which isn't going away very quickly. I need to get this down to the bare plastic.

Should I switch from one stripping medium to another, or just wait longer? What do I need to do to take out the parts from a Purple Power bath and prepare them for another medium such as Dawn Power Dissolver?

Do I need to clean the remaining paint residue from my first attempt, which is still sticky, and if so, how?

Purple Power has worked great for me in stripping kit chrome, but this is a problem.

Edited September 11, 2011 by sjordan2

[Mike Kucaba]

Are you keeping the PP warmish? PP and SC works best when warmish. If you just rinse off the bodies with water you can use DPD with out any problems,Just make sure the model is dry first.

[Chuck Most]

A couple of questions- (Mike already brought up the temperature issue, and PP does work much better when warm)

One, is the Purple Power still purple? Once it's been used on quite a few stripping sessions, it starts to get cloudy and full of particles and loses some of its 'punch'. Filtering it will help in this case ( I just run it through a series of cloth rags), but once it gets to a certain point it just isn't any good anymore and needs replaced, even after filtering.

Two, is it in a covered container? I don't have any scientific data, but for me, it always seems to work best in a covered container. A covered container is probably better than an open one when dealing with a solvent like Purple Power anyway.

And finally, regarding your question on removing the stubborn stuff. I have had good luck using a nylon-bristle brush. Not an old toothbrush- I use the detailing brushes sold at most auto parts outlets, which come in a package of three with nylon, brass, and steel bristles. Scrubbing off the stubborn stuff and then putting it back in the PP helps. In fact, you can even use the brass brush if you don't go crazy with it- if it is an older plastic kit or resin the material will shrug off the brass. I wouldn't use the steel brush as it will scratch up even the toughest old kit plastic.

And sometimes, depending on paint, Purple Power just plain won't get every last speck off the body, no matter what you try.

[sjordan2]

Thanks, guys. I had the lid off and I'll put it on, then give it more time to work. This is a fresh bottle.

[shucky]

try 90% rubbing alcohol. Either the purple stuff or 90% alcohol will pretty much take off anything.

[Deathgoblin]

I usually have good luck with brake fluid. Good ole DOT3 or whatever spec it is now.

[Chuck Most]

I usually have good luck with brake fluid. Good ole DOT3 or whatever spec it is now.

It does, but read the label carefully- some of the newer fluids will not strip paint. Check the label, and if it says something to the effect of "Avoid contact with painted surfaces", you're in business.

[sjordan2]

I think Dawn Power Dissolver will be the next step. So far, I've done 3 1/2 days with Purple Power, overnight with blue label Easy Off (I know, everyone recommends yellow label), another overnight with 90% alcohol, and a wipe-down with Ronsonol lighter fluid, followed immediately by a wash with dishwashing liquid. A little more progress each time, but this is one stubborn bugger.

I have no idea what paint the original builder used, but I'm just now starting to get through the primer.

Edited September 18, 2011 by sjordan2

[MikeMc]

I usually have good luck with brake fluid. Good ole DOT3 or whatever spec it is now.

NO DOT 4 or DOT 5 they do not work.

[crazyjim]

Have you tried Simple Green? Much nicer to the hands than Purple Power.

[Kaleb]

What about mean green? That stuff is really mean. It took some red dye off our counter after the dye had set over night. There is still a spot left but it got 90 percent.