Harry P. Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 My head hurts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 My head hurts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 ok you guys can have your fun, but I'm close to doing my first Alclad job!!!!!!!!!! but, I'm sure I'll be ok being there has been so much here lately on this topic. I picked out the answers my Magic 8-Ball liked best, shook, not stirred and the way i read it 9after my headache subsided) is... use red oxide primer first on the part when there's a 85% chance of rain Then flow massive coats of Alclad over the flat red and before it dries cover with gloss black lacquer and a last coat of Alclad so it reflects back on it self and then shines outward errrrrrr ,,,,, did I understand that right??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 ok you guys can have your fun, but I'm close to doing my first Alclad job!!!!!!!!!! but, I'm sure I'll be ok being there has been so much here lately on this topic. I picked out the answers my Magic 8-Ball liked best, shook, not stirred and the way i read it 9after my headache subsided) is... use red oxide primer first on the part when there's a 85% chance of rain Then flow massive coats of Alclad over the flat red and before it dries cover with gloss black lacquer and a last coat of Alclad so it reflects back on it self and then shines outward errrrrrr ,,,,, did I understand that right??? (You get the same as Harry) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pharr7226 Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 This is hilarious!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slant6 Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 Well. the gloss black worked. Thanks to everyone for all the help. I have another question though. Has anyone ever tried using this over other colors, and if so, what were the results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 To Dave of Treehugger fame: I truly appreciate all the input you've given on the use of Alclad .. and everyone else that has contributed. I really am ready to try this for the first time. Just waiting for spring and some warmer temps now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frozono Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 i use the black gloss base and i let it dries for 24 H. next day i a plied 2 lite coats and let it dries for 3 H. and for a little tip i sealed with Future. and enhances the shine, and protect the finish from get dull and works super... (in the pics i aplied 2 coats of Future) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Well. the gloss black worked. Thanks to everyone for all the help. I have another question though. Has anyone ever tried using this over other colors, and if so, what were the results? I've tried several other colors, but am most "Satisfied" with the black, not only with the Alclad, but also using it with my water-based chrome system. "Satisfied" being a "Relative Term", it's always good to experiment on sample pieces to see what results you may get with other 'Glossy" base colors that could happily surprise you. It's fun to step "Outside The Box" periodically, as that's what helps this hobby move forward and grow. All the best - dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Dave-tell us about your water-based chrome system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) Dave-tell us about your water-based chrome system. Hi Harry As you've probably figured out by now, I'm a fairly intense and dedicated builder. I have a 5X10 walk in spray booth that is lit heated and vented and has air cond. available to use if needed ( In Oregon ??? ), a complete machine shop, a photo-etch system, several paint urethane systems, and several chrome systems, including the "Commercial Water-based Chrome system" I mentioned. I guess you could call me an "Enthusiast" . The water based chrome systems chemical package was "Several Thousand $$$$" to purchase and set up, and then all the guns I had to purchase and some I had to design and create. A full size commercial system ranges in price between $7500 - $15,000, plus $2800 - $5,500 for the chemical packages. I had to design and build a double nozzle air-brush, and a dual nozzle HVLP 4 1/2 oz. gun, and re-formlate all the chemical ratios mixtures, as this has never been done with an air-brush before, to my knowledge. Non of the commercial manufacturers could help me, as they had never heard of scaling down their chemical process from a dual nozzle 3 gallon system, to a 3/4 oz. custom made dual-nozzle air-brush system. You have to shoot a particular over-lap spray pattern during the chroming process, and available equipment for miniature model part's didn't exist, so I basically invented one. It took me 2 years and probably over a thousand hours to get where I was satisfied with the result's . I continue to perfect the system and add more capacity, while maintaing the same nozzle's. The system takes 7 dedicated guns for each of the four steps in this 8 stage system. I ended up buying over 20 guns, experimenting to see which gave the best result's. There are 13 chemicals, including the four that are shot all at once, combining in the air, from the dual nozzle guns. There is also a special water that all the chemicals are mixed with. The water is charcol filtered using a reverse osmosis process. I use a special testing device called a TDS meter to check the quality of the water. Every critical step in this 8 stage process requires fresh chemicals, the right timing between stages and steps, proper air temperature, and correct air pressures for spraying, to guarantee maximum sucessful result's. Several of the stages I either re-designed or re-invented, and added an extra urethane base color to bring up the clarity, and used a different color tint in the top-coat for more "DAZZLE". There are 3, sometimes 4, catalyzed urethane systems also used in the process. Everything is water clear, so it's really amazing to see the incredible chrome appear like majic as you spray. It takes 4 days, and nearly 40 hours from start to finish, to complete the process. Here's the spray set-up Here's all the chemicals and supplies And here's some finished parts. Edited April 20, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 I guess you could call me an "Enthusiast" The water based chrome system It takes 4 days from start to finish to complete the process. Here's the spray set-up Here's all the chemicals and supplies And here's some finished parts. OMG! but I'd love to see those images blown way up... don't you have a new camera???? That's a pretty amazing system... yes, you're insane! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) OMG! but I'd love to see those images blown way up... don't you have a new camera???? That's a pretty amazing system... yes, you're insane! During several years of my career as a Tooling and Design Manager, I learned the benefit of keeping as much as we could in-house, for repeateability of quality, and accuracy for our products. The water-based chrome system I use, I could never justify the cost, but I knew what kind of repeateably controlled quality I wanted, and was definetly up for such a huge challange. Something I always enjoy. Kinda my "Goofy Nature" . These "Snaps" were taken several years ago with a "Film Camera" BD ( Before Digital ), and then just recently scanned and downloaded into my image hosting account. NO - I WON'T RE-SET EVERYTHING UP SO YOU CAN SEE BIGGER PIC'S YES - I'M INSANE - AND LOVE IT :blink: Edited April 20, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Well, I don't know about you guys but I say everything with pictures and yes, I use Model Master Gloss Black and nothing else. After warming my paint and applying it nice and wet, I wait only 1 to 2 hours and shoot my Alclad very lightly. I have never needed to rub it at the end. For some reason I have found out that when the paint is in the "tacky" stage before drying, the Alclad works better for me. This is just my humble opinion but I always say, practice and test before any Alclad session!! Everything chrome on this Cobra is Alcladed including the rims. This is Alclad Aluminum with the same black base, not very different than the chrome for this Corolla's wheels. Bumpers and rear light bezels are Alcladed on this Impala. Velocity stacks on this Falcon. I have tried all the methods mentioned on this thread, I am keeping this one but I am sure that every person is going to have their own opinions and that I certainly can respect!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Well, I don't know about you guys but I say everything with pictures You must be Egyptian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 NO - I WON'T RE-SET EVERYTHING UP SO YOU CAN SEE BIGGER PIC'S I understand ... the neat and orderly look was just a scam! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Well, I don't know about you guys but I say everything with pictures and yes, I use Model Master Gloss Black and nothing else. After warming my paint and applying it nice and wet, I wait only 1 to 2 hours and shoot my Alclad very lightly. I have never needed to rub it at the end. For some reason I have found out that when the paint is in the "tacky" stage before drying, the Alclad works better for me. This is just my humble opinion but I always say, practice and test before any Alclad session!! Everything chrome on this Cobra is Alcladed including the rims. This is Alclad Aluminum with the same black base, not very different than the chrome for this Corolla's wheels. Bumpers and rear light bezels are Alcladed on this Impala. Velocity stacks on this Falcon. I have tried all the methods mentioned on this thread, I am keeping this one but I am sure that every person is going to have their own opinions and that I certainly can respect!!! Thanks for the pictures, Marcos, those really show whats possible. I'm ready to Cruz like an Egyptian now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Dave, if you're serious about that water-based chroming system of yours, you definitely are CRAZY!!! You've put more effort into that one system than most of us will put into the entire hobby in our lifetimes! Too bad you couldn't simplify it and patent it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E St. Kruiser50 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) Dave, if you're serious about that water-based chroming system of yours, you definitely are CRAZY!!! You've put more effort into that one system than most of us will put into the entire hobby in our lifetimes! Too bad you couldn't simplify it and patent it... YOU'RE RIGHT HARRY - CERTIFIABLE - BUT LOVIN' IT ( By the way Harry - Being "Certifiable has it's benefits. I won Peoples Choice and Best Theme this week-end at our local SABA NNL ) Edited April 20, 2009 by Treehugger Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 little bump i started playing with aclad and kosutte gin san wasnt having good results with Testors or aclad black got meh results at best till i switched to Humbrol Enamels. spoons on the left after applying kosutte gin san Gin san spoons on the top Gin san spoons on the bottom Gin san over Humbrol Grey left, Aclad over black on the right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Aclad Kosutte Gin San KSG over Grey base best chrome look i could get was KSG over Humbrol Grey (5) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Joseph Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 That Kosutte Gin-san stuff is awesome. Is it still available anywhere? I wonder if you could let the solvent in Alclad II Chrome evaporate off and use the metallic stuff that's left as a rub-on product... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lownslow Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 That Kosutte Gin-san stuff is awesome. Is it still available anywhere? I wonder if you could let the solvent in Alclad II Chrome evaporate off and use the metallic stuff that's left as a rub-on product... not sure some gundam builders say yes, others say no. i havent been able to find it but there is something like it available called MGM magic powder on ebay or hobby easy.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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