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shucky

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About shucky

  • Birthday 09/28/1973

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  • Full Name
    Mike DeLuco

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  1. Steve, excellent information and superb results! It's something I've struggled with for sure as I haven't dedicated enough time practicing. Thanks for sharing.
  2. I do not have most of my photos at work, but this was DupliColor spray can paint and clear rubbed out with Scratch X only. Not sure why someone would BS another modeler when they were trying to help them, but whatever. Your mileage may vary.
  3. To the OP, as someone else here already stated, paint jobs, like everything else related to building a model can get overly complicated by people. Don't believe me? Look at how hard some people make resin casting (it isn't). I see a lot of general information here, but what seems to be missing is the fact that all paint brands spray differently. What works for Tamiya spray cans does not necessarily work when spraying DupliColor. For example, Tamiya spray paint tends to be on the thin side. In my humble opinion, this makes it a bit more difficult to spray than DupliColor Lacquer. You have to build up layers of Tamiya spray while avoiding runs, etc. through a series of several color coats. Also remember, the more coats of anything being sprayed is more opportunity for something to go wrong. If you want to achieve spectacular paint with minimal effort and are okay with sticking with spray cans for now, your best bet is mastering DupliColor first. Ready to be blown away? You absolutely do not have to build up "mist" coats or spray multiple layers over long periods of time when using DupliColor lacquer. I have NEVER sprayed multiple layers of DupliColor in 30+ years. In fact, 100% of the time I can lay the color down in one single spray session (and you can also!). DupliColor has excellent coverage and dries almost immediately. This is why you can paint an entire car body in one painting session with no runs and no orange peel. There is no secret here. Just spray at a slow to moderate pace spraying past the model body and overlapping with each pass. Work your way around the body until your desired coverage is achieved. Because it dries so fast, you may continue to spray after only a minute until everything is perfect. After clearing using DupliColor clear (2-3 coats) you can simply rub out the paint with Scratch-X. I assure you, polishing using 15 different grits of sandpaper over the course of several hours or days is so unnecessary. I'm not knocking people who do it, but it is certainly not necessary and there is no discernable difference when comparing side by side. So long as your primer is nice and smooth, you should not have to touch sandpaper after that unless you get debris in the paint which requires fixing. Why do I make these comments? Because I used to overly complicate painting and polished using 15 different grits of sandpaper for hours on end. It was awful and I hated it. Good luck and happy building!
  4. Does anyone know if Robert Bentley (RB Motion) is still making his wonderful aluminum fittings? His website has been weird for several months and he is no longer on eBay either. I did send him an email yesterday, but no response yet. Just curious if anyone has ordered from or heard from him recently. Thanks guys.
  5. For the most part, I use Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy on the majority of parts for my models along with thin super glue and occasionally thin Tamiya cement. I started using Epoxy about 15 years ago, and found that it was simply superior to other glues and methods. I can mix tiny amounts within seconds, apply very minimal amounts in a controlled method using a toothpick, and have time to position the parts exactly how I want them. It doesn't fog chrome or glass either. I always have a large paper plate next to my bench where I simply dispense a series of dots in two rows of both parts A and B. I mix the resin and hardener together as needed and assemble whatever I'm working on accordingly. If I do not use all of the tiny dots that I dispensed onto the plate, no worries as you can keep it as is (exposed) with no complications for use another day. Doing so does not affect the resin or hardener whatsoever. I simply could not build a model w/out Epoxy. Simply wait a couple minutes and everything is rock solid.
  6. I've been using Alumilite white (resin) for close to 20 years and have never had a bad batch. It is still my "go to" resin. I have tried Smooth On resin as well and while it does the job, I find Alumilite white to be easier to work with (for me at least). I do really like Smooth On's "Onyx" resin though, it is wonderful if you need something cast in pure black.
  7. You know, when I saw your recent stuff in IG, I thought to myself, "wow, this guys stuff reminds me of Cool Hand Luke from Model Cars Mag Forums...." and well, here you are and the SAME person! LOL! Awesome stuff here. Not sure anyone does black as smooth you sir!
  8. I ordered some parts several months ago through his website. My friend did the same. We never got anything. No emails, no parts, no responses. Contacted Paypal and got refunds. Several weeks later I get an email saying my parts are ready and that I should pay. Yeah, no thanks. People should not have to wait months (or years) for resin parts. It is why I stopped selling resin. I refused to get behind and make people wait and it was taking too much time away from my personal modeling projects. If he cannot deliver, he should stop taking orders. Simple as that. I have no sympathy for this kind of business practice.
  9. Hello! No donor needed. It is a full kit and 100% complete.
  10. Hi folks, I saw the artist post pics of this on Instagram a couple months back and drooled all over it. I wished I had a 3D printer to print it myself, but as luck would have it, a company in Canada snatched up the file and had at it. They changed the engine from a 4 cylinder to an RB26 (Skyline engine) transverse mounted in the back and the print quality and packaging is superb. I'm beyond happy with the purchase.
  11. Made something similar on a GTI build a bunch of years ago. Made a "carbon" look can using styrene tubing with single inlet and dual outlet. Front pipe and rear pipes were polished solder.
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