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2010 Camaro Pro Mod


BKcustoms

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Here's a project I started a while ago that I recently brought back to the bench. I started with a body from Competition Resins and a Ross Gibson Pro Mod Hemi engine kit. The chassis is scratchbuilt from evergreen rod and sheet styrene. I'll be clearing off the bench to focus on this as soon as I finish some customer projects so I'll have updates soon.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Looks great Billy! How did you like the Ross Gibson engine? I've got the Sonny Leonard pro mod I'm going to stuff into the Revell LAPD kit sometime in the future. I'm not attempting frame builds yet, just practicing my work with braided line and fittings to get a nice, clean finish. It kinda looks like you may have used beads or cut sections of hollow styrene for your fittings. I've spent too much already on RB and Pro Tech fittings (plain finish) and painting them with Tamiya clear acrylic red/blue paint. It looks good, but the costs to fit an entire engine for fuel and dry sump is getting too much for me.

Despite some pretty good instructions on the Pro Tech site, I generally buy my fittings at least a size or two larger than what's recommended for the line used so I don't have to strip away the braid, etc. I'd rather let the CA/accelerator do the work for me in holding a slightly smaller line in the fitting. Anyway, nice work and if you discovered any tips or things to look out for with the RG engine, can you pls respond? I've used the Kobelco blower and 3 hole hat on a standard 1/25 plastic engine build and it was o.k. Tks.

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Hi Mitch, you are correct about me using hollowed out styrene hex rod as fittings, it looks ok but the pro tech stuff is definitely better. The only things to watch out for on the Gibson Engines are the uneven mating surfaces and occasional pinholes that need to be filled. I usually tape a piece of sandpaper to some flat glass and sand the parts against it to make the mating surfaces level. Also, on this engine I used small sanding sticks to remove the "cast" texture from the block and heads to get more of a machined look on them. I hope this helps.

Billy

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Sounds great Billy! Personally, I like your fittings. Man, like I said the cost of even the uncolored straight and 90 deg fittings aren't cheap. I carefully opened my engine to examine the parts and the castings looked pretty good. The uneveness is true; looking more closely at yours I think my 2 piece blower top is a Gibson product as well, just broken out from a kit perhaps. Even using a sanding file on both blower and hat, I still did a poor job of making the two pieces fit flat. No pinholes luckily.

I've never tried striping or two colors and I'm only a shaker can painter right now. I expect you spray, so I'm curious as to what tape and taping/painting procedure you use? The best tape I've seen so far is the Tamiya type in the dispenser similar to desk tape. I have some that's 1/4" I use when mocking up engine to frame fittings. It's like painters tan tape but much thinner and flexible. Many thanks for your answers and advise!

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Mitch, I'm glad the advice was helpful! I've started using Tamiya tape on everything now and so far I've had zero issues with it. for the stripes I cut it into thin strips so it will make the curves needed without bunching up.

Jim, Thanks for the compliment! The huge engines are my favorite part of Pro Mod cars!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Billy: if you love big pro mod motors, check in on my thread "Frankenstein's Ghost" in this topic. I'm not revealing the total build yet; however, savvy builders may recognize the chassis despite how I've mangled it. I'm no pro, only an amatuer at best. This is my 4th build where I've used fittings and braided lines, and the 1st build I've ever tried to mate a pro mod blower with a standard Hemi (albeit 2 plugs per hole!). Please forgive the mistakes, it's just part of the learning curve! Thanks!

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