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'32 Ford roadster gluebomb rework. April 26: back on track


Ace-Garageguy

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Again, thank you all for the comments and kind thoughts.

I got some new magic, experimental filler on the top of the tonneau.....a 1:6 mix (by weight) of glass microspheres and epoxy. Same goo I use on some 1:1 planes. Adheres perfectly, sands beautifully, but takes 12 hours to cure.

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...and glassed the underside. I'll be tightening up the fit on the body a bit before I pull the mold, but it's too fragile to work it without the glassed underside.

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Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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The tonneau cover looks great! Sorry if it's been asked before but do you have a link to somewhere I could get some of the fine fiberglass cloth that you've been using?

Billy, I buy the stuff on the tonneau in 56" long rolls to do aircraft control surfaces, but if you'll shoot me a PM with your address, I'll send you enough to experiment with. I'm almost out myself. That particular cloth follows compound curves beautifully. I also use a much easier to find, slightly heavier cloth stocked by hobby shops that sell RC aircraft stuff. It's a lot stiffer, and because of the weave is only really suited for flat reinforcements or two-dimensional curves.

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  • 3 months later...

The little car says thanks for remembering and asking about it. I wasn't entirely happy with the fit of the tonneau and the bases of the windshield pillars.The Carson top is taking a while to get right, too. I got more crazing on the valve-covers than I'd like because I used a hot paint and no primer...duh...so I've been trying to justify buying another '50 Olds to get some more. Then I started looking at correcting the slight proportion in-accuracies on the old AMT body shells, and on the days nice enough to paint, I've had to do real work. The paint is black lacquer, so to avoid blushing I'm waiting for a nice, warm, dry and windless day. Still in the rotation, but moving slowly waiting for spring. I've also been putting off making the 'street' exhaust system, the last real bugger on this build.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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  • 1 month later...

One of the things I'm trying is Ace Hardware black rattle-can lacquer. It's cheap for a lot of it, and it covers very well. I've already experimented with sanding / polishing it and it gives the finish I want for this period build...NOT clearcoated and looking like it was dipped in syrup. There's some peel in this shot, but it'll all come out in the end. I let the primer shrink in for months and then final sanded just before shooting the color. Stupidly, I neglected to clean the body with 70% isopropyl alcohol first. The other side is horribly fisheyed, and will have to be sanded back to primer. Stupid. When I saw what was happening, I let it flash and then cleaned THIS side with isopropyl before painting. No problem.

DSCN0039_zps12c5d8fb.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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between the various threads, it seems you know your way around a paint job.

Q: any chance you could give a quick 'how-to' on the basics of getting from orange peel to acceptable paint?

my paint jobs (rattle can) tend to be "dry" and never really look finished. right now, it's okay, but at some point I don't want to make excuses!

thanks

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  • 2 months later...

between the various threads, it seems you know your way around a paint job.

Q: any chance you could give a quick 'how-to' on the basics of getting from orange peel to acceptable paint?

my paint jobs (rattle can) tend to be "dry" and never really look finished. right now, it's okay, but at some point I don't want to make excuses!

thanks

Gladly.. I had a lot of repair and remedial work to do on this one. It just takes a little time and patience.

This is the 'bad' side after I'd washed off the horribly fisheyed black paint (while it was still wet) with 70% isopropyl. The alcohol attacked the Duplicolor primer a little bit too, so the entire side of the car had to be re-sanded with 400 grit wet.

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While I was at it, I re-sanded the 'good' side with 600 wet to level the orange peel in the paint.

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Bad side with 3 new coats of Ace Hardware rattle can black lacquer. This will need to be sanded with 600 wet and re-shot, to make it as slick as I need.

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Good side with 3 more coats of black lacquer. Orange peel this time is less noticeable, will sand and polish out.

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...and just for fun, I finished up one of the wheel / tire assemblies to get a better idea of the final look...

DSCN0167_zpsd7c2e86e.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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