panel lines

[cruz]

[jbwelda]

marcos im not sure i understand your technique there, maybe im missing something?

so you scribe the lines very deep and then sharpie them from the back so the black shows through.

then you flow metalizer (you didnt specify a color but when i think metalizer i think silvery color) into

your panel lines.

then you primer and paint, and sometimes add more metalizer between coats.

so...im unsure what youre left with then. the metalizer somehow doesnt get covered by primer and paint?

if its covered by the metalizer, what use was the sharpie on the inside of the scribed lines?

how does silvery metalizer end up looking dark like a panel line?

i see your photo there so its obvious your technique works but im kind of puzzled how it works.

[cruz]

If you look at the metalizers, they have various shades, I usually go with the darkest but it really does not matter, at the end of your painting session they will look dark, not silvery. I use the sharpie on the white plastic and this gives me an idea how the panel lines will look at the end, that's just me being picky After I prime the car I will flow more metalizer paint into the lines, sand my primer and fix any imperfections and prime again. I stop flowing paint into the lines on my last primer coat, there will be enough paint in the lines for a good finishing effect.

Hope this helps..............

[jbwelda]

thanks for clarifying that marcos, i may try this technique one day...your lines do look very nice in the photos you posted.

so the lines stay dark somehow even after the color has been sprayed on? i take it you use an airbrush and can control the amount of paint you squirt. unfortunately im using cans, tamiya mostly these days...wonder how those lines stand up to that?

[cruz]

Hey my friend, both cars were painted with cans, it does not matter, the primered Corolla you see in the first picture was done with an airbrush because I use the Floquil brand of primer so it has to be airbrushed but the color and clearcoats were done with cans. Here is a picture of my Impala, also done with cans and you can clearly see that the car is silver but yet the panel lines are dark even after using the metalizer paints........

[935k3]

All good ideas. I would like to a method I started using the last year or so. I used to flow india ink in the lines but they did look heavy sometimes. I started using a black wash of Tamiya acrylics applied with a 10/0 brush, it looks better and not so heavy as a solid black. I also deepen all panel lines usually with the backside of the Exacto blade before painting. The deepness of th line with wash looks just right. This Vette was done this way.

[MikeMc]

I think a trip to Michaels is in order!! Great info guys!!!

[FujimiLover]

What's the best way to achieve those panel lines on model cars? I've thought about the old thin black magic marker, but those don't always seem to work on some paint finishes. Also, when and when not to make panel lines? Would an airbrush help? Any tips/tricks for clean, smooth panel lines?

[MrObsessive]

Do you mean making them or bringing out the ones already on the model?

[FujimiLover]

Painting theme so they stand out more.

[MrObsessive]

The best way I've found to do them is to use black water based acrylic paint after you primer, but before you do your color coats. I've seen a number of builds when they're done after everything's said and done, but the panel lines really jump out at you and lends itself to a "drawn on" appearance to them.

Painting over it tones down the dark lines but still gives the appearance that the panels can open.

The reason I mention water based acrylics (such as Tamiya) is that after you flow them in your panel lines, Windex or anything with ammonia can wipe the excess right off.

Marcos Cruz recently did a build where he did this and his came out looking fantastic! Maybe if he sees this thread he can post pics of the build he did with it.

[FujimiLover]

Thank you, that was the other trick. I didn't want theme to look drawen in as that look's cheap. My aplogies to those of you who do that, I personally prefer not to have that look.

I want a clean, professional look.

Also, how small does the model need to get to get away without having those panel lines? Obviously, the smaller the model the more difficult it is to accomplish.

Edited March 15, 2009 by FujimiLover

[crispy]

I probably go overboard as far as the panel lines are concerned, but in the end I know they'll look right.

I will get my fresh body cleaned and use a Micron pigment pen. They come in a variety of sizes. I use the .005 pens primarily for my door panels. Some kits have huge gaps while I find that the Japanese companies have thinner gaps. Depending on that I might scribe the lines a little deeper as well.

I then go ahead and prep and prime my model. Once I get done I go through the lines again with the micron pen. Depending on how many coats of primer I need I will continue with the pen. Once I'm happy with the primed body and start color coats I'm done with the pen. Usually this gets it dark enough to show a darker shading on the model irregardless of what paint color you go with.

Here is my Porsche Cayman with primer and the micron lines already in:

Here it is finished. You can see how much more shaded it is.

This is my technique and it works for me. Other techniques will work as well if not better, but to me it really depends on how comfortable you are with that method.

Good Luck!

Chris

[MrObsessive]

Wow Chris, I LIKE that!!

Where you been hidin' that one?? It looks great!

[crispy]

Thanks Bill! In my fotki? LOL

I've gotten a little criticism over the body because I did not paint the side bar that breaks the side glass. I like it white. Some say it doesn't look finished or like the "real" cars are. But then again it's built how I'd like it.

Chris

Edited for Bill, the completed thread:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...ic=5271&hl=

Edited March 15, 2009 by crispy

[Guest Davkin]

I custom mix a color using cheap craft acrylics that's more or less a very dark version of the body color and apply it as a wash. As mentioned previously Windex, (or rubbing alcohol) will remove the excess. I do this after painting. Doing it before painting can give you hit or miss results, especially if you are using paint that covers well, (like most laquers).

David

[meaneyme]

I keep seeing these omitted in so many projects it's not funny anymore, great paintjobs, no panel lines. Why? Are they that difficult to work with? I know it has been brought up hundreds of times but I also think that it's something imperative when it comes to the completion of a model, it's something that must be there.

[ewaskew]

Most of the time I will make them deeper for the detail your talking about.

As for the wash method if it is not done right it can make it look ,like a cartoon

as Wheelman said.

If you look at any color of a car in the real world except black from a distance'

you will see the black line around the doors.

Do you do the lines on your builds?

If so show us your detailed lines around your doors,trunks.

I may do it on my next build just to see how it comes out.

[edward smith]

Doesn't matter how many times it has been talked about here, I still would love to hear what some people are doing with the panel lines. I have seen some really nicely done ones and also some really bad ones, almost to the point where they are almost drawn on.

[crispy]

I utilize a Micron pigma pen when doing panel lines. I start as early as the bare plastic. Once body work and sanding have been done I go over the lines again. I do this after each primer coat. I also do one more "once over" on my first color coat.

You just need to be mindful of the colors you are using to make sure it doesn't look to dark or toyish. Micron pigma pens come in different colors. I find I use black the most.

The last car I did, Aston DBS, I utilized the same method. Unfortunately for some odd reason, my lines have all but disappeared. I was kind of surprised. I may have put the final color coat on too heavy, washing out the black.

So, from that I learn, adapt, overcome.

It's the method I use. It is not the only method available. However, it's worth a try.

Chris

[Guest]

I always deepen all of my panel lines except of course where it's two panels that would be bolted together on the real car. I've seen a lot of models that the builder blackwashed these and they shouldn't be. The blackwash,no matter how it's done,just looks too fake to me. The only thing I blackwash on a model is the cowl vents and only then if I can't open them up. As always,it's mostly a personal preference.

Regarding the absence of panel lines, I can't stand it myself. I see a lot of models with no line between the bottom of the fender and the rocker panel. Same thing at the cowl and the top of the fender. The fenders,cowl and rocker panel are not one piece on a real car,so why should they be on a model? It takes maybe 5-10 minutes with a razor saw to add missing panel lines and makes a world of difference in it's appearance.

Edited January 15, 2011 by plowboy

[Dr. Cranky]

I use a panel scriber from Micro Mark and a few layers of tape . . .

[kerc]

It's very rare to see drawn-in panel lines that look realistic. If you measure the gap in 1:25 scale, a 0.5mm thick line is a 1/2" gap! I've never had a problem with panel line definition; then again, I don't paint my cars like they have been dipped in paint, and I try to get away with as few coats as needed.

Edited January 17, 2011 by kerc

[crazyjim]

Lots of posters here were going nuts about a panel scriber from Mission Models in California. I ordered one and about 9 months later got sick of their "we ship next week" garbage and canceled the order.

[Harry P.]

When you draw the panel lines in with black on top of the final paint coat the result is cartoonish and very unrealistic. In the real world panel lines are NOT 100% black. You only get absolute black if there's no atmosphere to look through... like on the moon. On Earth, shadows (and panel lines) are never pure black.

I read about this method on one of zoom zoom's posts, and judging by what I've seen of his work, the result is very realistic. I'm paraphrasing here, but basically what he does is paint the body, then draw the panel lines in with black ink... and then he sprays a couple of color coats over the top (I'm talking airbrush here), but with the paint cut 50/50 with clear. The result is that the final diluted color coats cover the black panel lines just enough to knock back the stark blackness, but still leave them a realistic shade or two darker than the overall color.

Simple and effective. No muss, no fuss, no fooling with scribers, sanding, etc., and great results. That's the kind of technique I like!