Straightening wire and solder

[hookedonplastics]

I see people using solder for exhaust or craft wire for body lines. It seems that I am only able to find these items in spool form. Is there a trick to straightening out solder or wire for straight runs?

[Mr. Metallic]

I'm looking forward to hearing the answer on this too. I seem to remember someone saying to roll it between to peices of glass, but I could be wrong.

[Jairus]

Personally, I would never use solder! The material polishes up pretty good in the beginning but getting it attached is the hard part and it's heavy. I would suggest using copper electrical wire that is painted over solder any day!!! Plus you can solder the copperwire together thus creating your own headers. Finished headers can then be painted gloss black and then alclad if a chrome look is the final result.

If you want to make chrome trim then use evergreen plastic and coat/cover it with baremetal. There are no short-cuts in modeling! It all takes huge amounts of time and effort to create a realistic looking model!!!!

[bobss396]

I like solder for exhaust work. I buy the Kester .062 diameter solder, it comes in a tube (coiled up) for under $2. I cut the pieces oversize, since I have no glass around, I roll it between 2 pieces of 1/4" plexi glass, just make sure it is clean. Any lines it may leave can be taken out with steel wool or Scotch Brite pads.

As far as attaching it, I either drill deep into the cylinder head or make up a flange for it. CA glue or 5-minute expoy works. For collectors, I'll use aluminum tubing that I "crimp" around the 4 tubes.

Bob

[Modelcarjedi]

I've used solder and i just roll it out like Playdo. I've also used it for headers .

keith

[hookedonplastics]

Thanks for all the tips guys! And I never thought to use copper, Jairus. I can already see in my head 'gathering' four smaller lines with a solder connection to create the transition to the longer exhaust run. But at todays prices on copper, can I really afford this........hmmmmm

[Exotics_Builder]

Whether solder or something else, the technique I've used to straighten out is lay the piece on a flat surface and then use a steel ruler and run it diagonally across the piece applying some pressure. The piece will roll and straighten out.

In my case, I use a flat piece of glass for the base and a 6" steel hobby rule that has a knob on it that makes it a little easier to manipulate.

[Matt T.]

Also, check your local craft store for an "armature wire" section. It's aluminum rod in various diameters for framing sculptures, etc. There are even a few brands that offer straight rod in tubes. I picked up some at Micheal's to make 1" handlebars for my 1/12 chopper, so that size would work well for 2" header pipes in 1/25. Then you'll only have to bend it, not straighten it.

[bobss396]

Try home centers for single conductor core hookup copper wire, they got spools of it and you can buy whatever you want. Just slice off the jacket and you have some really clean wire to use.

[dptydawg]

I use the same techniquw as Exotics_Builder. I have a strip of hardwood flooring that I use on an arborite desk top. Just roll the wire /solder back and forwards under the wood and all the kinks are ironed out.

Thanks

Carl Avis

[Steve H.]

Between two paint stir sticks, availbale for free at your local hardware store... cheap and efective for straightening any wire or solder.

2 problems I've seen with solder... Never use flux core solder, the flux leaks and attacks plastic and paint. Longer lengths of solder will sag, also, over time.

[horsepower]

You can pick up "silver" solid solder for plumbing at any home hardware, & at Walmart, it is very bright, & polishes up easily. Only problem is it comes in 3/32, & 1/8 inch sizes.

[RobinH]

I straighten wire by using two pairs of pliars grab the wire ,or solder, at each end and pull tight. Works for me.

[Bluzboy66]

I've used solder and i just roll it out like Playdo. I've also used it for headers .

keith

Your headers look great! Check out my Tech Tip post on custom bent aluminum exhaust. My technique will work PERFECT for custom headers, exhaust, roll cages, etc. .......

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4470

Mike