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About StevenGuthmiller
- Birthday 11/27/1962
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yes
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1/25th-1/24th
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http://stevenguthmiller@yahoo.com
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Steven Wade Guthmiller
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The problem with all of these chrome substitutes is that they all have the same basic characteristics. By that I mean none of them are particularly durable, and most will dull with the application of a protective clear coat, so it's pretty much a catch 22. Some seem to be a little more durable than others, and some are just awful in that regard, I don't know how anyone can adequately detail a grille for example, and maybe a grille badge, as the more you handle most of these products, the more messed up they get. The only product that I've heard of that has consistently been touted as durable to the extent of being anything approaching real chrome, is ALSA "Easy Chrome". Of course this product is quite expensive, but I for one will be willing to shell out some cash if a "true" solution for chrome is available, rather than these "half measures" that we have with all of these other products. Steve
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1964 Pontiac Lemans Convertible.
StevenGuthmiller replied to StevenGuthmiller's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I tried to incorporate as many of the small details as I could. Not particularly easy in this scale! 😑 Steve -
1964 Pontiac Lemans Convertible.
StevenGuthmiller replied to StevenGuthmiller's topic in WIP: Model Cars
On my way to completing the 2-barrel Rochester carb. Just added a little detail to a center carb from the Revell '66 GTO kit. Not perfect, but with some detail painting and a little weathering, it should do pretty well. Steve -
Understood. But because it's not curing through evaporation but by chemical action, does that mean that it's completely and thoroughly dried or cured? It puts me in mind of some of the quick set joint compounds that we used in the drywall business. The misunderstanding by many was that because it became hard in 30, 60 or 90 minutes, that it was somehow dry. Of course, it was not, and required just as long as regular joint compound to dry completely. In the end, there are a number of other factors that steer me away from 2K, so for the foreseeable future, I'll be sticking with lacquer for my clear coating purposes. Steve
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What Urethane would you recommend Joe? I'm completely unfamiliar with the use of urethane as a spray can or airbrush material, but I think that it may be about time to pull the trigger on the ALSA system. I have no time for all of the "chrome paints" that everyone is using these days, but if this stuff is as durable as advertised, I'm in. Steve
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Revell 1983 Hurst Oldsmobile.
StevenGuthmiller replied to ewetwo's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I’m sorry. Seems I read your post a bit wrong. Yes, I would most likely do it this way, and possibly even permanently install the bumpers if the chassis installation would permit. Steve -
Revell 1983 Hurst Oldsmobile.
StevenGuthmiller replied to ewetwo's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Or, at the very least, temporarily attach the bumpers to the body to be certain that you’re masked lines match up, and then disassemble and paint separately. I guess a lot depends on the assembly process required for the particular model. You might possibly not be able to get the chassis into the model with the bumpers permanently installed. These are things that a seasoned builder will investigate before he gets in too deep. By the way, personally, I would paint the silver first, followed by the black for a couple of reasons. #1: it’s easier to cover silver paint with black, than it is to cover black with silver. #2: Masking the smaller silver portion of the body in preparation for the black will be a lot easier, and require a lot less masking material than masking the entire body just to spray the silver on the bottom. Steve