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DrewC

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About DrewC

  • Birthday 10/30/1955

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  • Scale I Build
    1/24th 1/25th

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  1. Hey NW... DrewC here, I don't post very often but find the input and conversation rewarding. As for your question on opening doors, I strongly recommend the "thread" method. Gregg actually did an article on this quite some time ago - but as I sit here wrting this I find myself too lazy to go research the volume it was in. Any way, I believe the type was a poly -mercincile blend (forgive the spelling). It's the cleanest neatest way to open the doors and trunk lids. Also, another "tip" would be as some have offered; the back side of a #11 xacto.... well, it's actuall the tip of the blade you will be using as that is sharp as well. Best advises though overall - TAKE YOUR TIME with the blade tip and with the thread, use ii in a swaing motion - as the thread heats up you are really buring your way through! Good luck, let everyone know how you did! DrewC
  2. Ok... I seem to be a day (or more in this case) and a dolla short... Who won? Where do I send the kit? Ya know, working for a living gets to me... there never seems to be enough free time! DrewC
  3. Wayne: thanks for the info and clarification. The 25th does add some breathing room. However, Shane, very nice suspension and seat on your WIP. DrewC
  4. Well.... apparently I did not read the previous post re: end date.... But thanks for the response - very helpful.
  5. Build Off project motor pics... This is my first attempt to build a Ross Gibson Engine.... it's the Mopar Hemi going in to a 66 Cuda. The pictures are rough - still trying to learn to do closeups! When is the End Date again for the Build Off?
  6. Would someone be kind enough to tell me if this "build off" is still on? I may not have been active enough to post here and there but I ams till trying to complete my project. Thanls, Drew C
  7. OK all you pros out there, I have my doors cut out, front clip off, chassis is glued and ready for paint BUT, I need to know what you all do for hinges on a PRO STOCK/MOD? I am beating my brains out I think, trying to reinvent the wheel! Someone... Please help! DrewC
  8. Hey - guess who is back!!!! Been very busy only had minimal time to work on project. Devoting this weekend to motor. Will send pics hopefully Sunday! Great info by the way! Thanks again!
  9. Sam - thank you very much for the reply... but, unfortunately, I have no experience as indicated. I guess I will try some of the after market places... I may even try to SCAN the pieces and see what I come up with. Again, thanks for the reply and advice! DrewC
  10. Can anyone advise as to how I can create decals that mimic headlights, grille and bumpers - specifically for a '66 'Cuda? Thanks, DrewC
  11. Modeltech.... the fit of the chassis/tub looks like it went in withuot any alterations... very nice. I'm using the same chassis (55 Sportsman) for my drag racing build off project '66 Cuda (AMT)... picutres posted last night. Is that a GTO on your info tab? My son and I have a rebuilt 72 Chevelle 350/4 w TH350. I'll have to post some pics of it. DrewC
  12. Chassis is from 55 Sportsman reissue. Rear suspension is to be a 4 link (now from MAS not home built). Front suspension will be a combo of kit pieces and scratch built. No more work on the RG motor though! DrewC
  13. Charlie, great job. Question for you, the detail on the carbs, I see fuel lines but no linkage, how do you guys chose when to and not to add more detail? Is it preference of the build? Thanks, great products too! DrewC
  14. Sorry - no updates, but will start to work on it over the next few nights. Been caught up in chassis chaos for my project car. Now that I got that "straightened out".... I can devote some time to the motor. Thanks for asking and nudging! Haha! DrewC
  15. Hey Snuz... very nice stanz on the Nova. I have reached a conclusion for my '66 Cuda project - which is to use the '55 Chevy Sportsman tub, chassis and rear end. Much easier line up for the rear end. Are you using the chassis too? If so, do you need to alter the length? I do, front suspension is about 2 - 3 mm too long.
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