hellonwheelz3 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 OK I know i'm beating a dead horse here, but if I get orangepeel after rattlecanning a body, I know its mostly do to the fact that I sprayed from too far away. Is there any such thing as spraying too CLOSE? Other than bumping up on the body itself? I did look at Ed's tutorial on rattle canning, and although it was informative, it's above and beyond what resources I have available to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefheart22 Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 (edited) Tree Hugger Dave posted an awesome tutorial just for spray cans. If you're spraying from cans you can expect a bit of pebbling/orange peel. I usually hold my cans a foot away for mist coats and half a foot for the wet coat. If the wet coat covered well, I don't spray another. I spray hobby lacquers so I give anywhere from 5 - 15 minutes if I need another wet coat. If I spray while the last coat is still sopping wet I'll dimple the paint like a golf ball. Also cold weather causes rashing orange peel and fish eyes too. Either way, a good rattle can job may require some wet sanding and polishing afterwards. If you haven't, make sure you wet sand your primer coat smooth. And then try wet sanding your color/wet coats smooth. That could be another cause too. If the coat your spraying on top already has orange peel, the next coat will too. Edited January 24, 2010 by beefheart22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 One of the most critical steps is the temperature that you spray in 75 to 80 works best...really lets the paint flatten out as it drys yes too close and its run city... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weasel Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 i always heat the can by holding it under the hot tap water for about a minute or so, till the can feels warm...helps the paint 'flow' as smooth out on it's own... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellonwheelz3 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 I actually meant to say tree hugger dave's tutorial was the one i read. Not Ed Shaver's, although Ed does do some mean finishes too!! Anyway thanks for all the posts. I had forgotten about warming the can before spraying. I guess a warm can is good for more than one thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted January 24, 2010 Share Posted January 24, 2010 Guys if the paint is warm and the body is cold....your gonna have issues....try for everything at the same warm temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellonwheelz3 Posted January 24, 2010 Author Share Posted January 24, 2010 would a hair dryer wor for that?? I can steal my gf's dryer without her knowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38 Crush Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Ben, If you don't have any luck Fixing the problem. I Try and help ya at the next meeting Feb 13th. Just stick the car in my face See ya there! 38 Crush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellonwheelz3 Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the help Harold. I will be at D's Hobbies on the 13th for the show off. the interior is done on the merc, and hopefully i'll be able to stick a paint job on there, but not sure. It will be there though! Thanks for all the help Harry, among others. Ben Edited January 26, 2010 by hellonwheelz3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithace Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I can't find Dave's tutorial...can someone link me to it please? I know this thread is four years old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I usually let my spray cans sit in a pot of warm water for 'bout 6 minutes before spraying, and I do this for every coat whether mist or wet. I also spray inside the house most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZTony8 Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Make sure that both the paint AND the model are warm. I would advise using a mug/candle warmer(available at places like Michael's) for warming the rattle can.It warms more evenly(no,the can won't explode) and if you're using a partially empty can you don't just watch the can float in the water like a poor excuse for a boat and not get very warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmerc2003 Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I use dupli color for paint. It's stored in the basement next to the kits so they are the same temp usually. I have found a good primer base wet sanded smooth is the key to getting paint to lay really flat. I spray a little closer and faster than they recommend. Usually 3-5" away and at a nice brisk pace. Wait for it to tack and hit it again. In the winter I have used a small garage space heater to keep the area around the body warm when I spray in the garage. I think the enamels give off more issues than lacquer which is much more forgiving and user friendly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonmaster Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I have used rattle cans for quite a few cars. I have found that if I spray it almost to the point of running. it will flatten out and produce a good job. Thanks to an old friend, Larry Hornsby Jr for that info. The rattle can job on my BRE Trans Am came out fantastic. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclescott58 Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 My nickname a our local model car club was "Sunkist". Because no matter what I did with enamel canned spay paint I got orange peel. I've switched over to lacquer paint and my orange peel went away. But not totally the nickname. It still comes up. "Sunkist" Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jet Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) After spraying, cover your model with a shoe box. this will remove your overspray/orange peel. It allows the solvents still trapped in the paint to melt the flash coat and wet out like it should. Keep it covered too long will do too good of job and you will start to lose your coverage on sharp edges, such as panel lines. Use a clear vaccum formed cake box cover if you wish and watch. Five to ten minutes should do it. Stop the process by removing the cover. Increase the process by including a solvent soaked rag inside the box. Edited December 29, 2014 by jet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webestang Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I've used nothing but Testers rattles can for paint. I make sure the surface is clean and the body and can are room temp. SHAKE VERY WELL before each coat. I get 4 good coats out of each can. Then I polish with plain white tooth paste. Here is one with 4 coats and polished with no clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxbat426 Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 toothpaste!! Interesting. I have a build i just finished painting that has a bit of Orange Peel. Gonna give that a try. Thanks for the tip. john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Yes we've used toothpaste as a polishing compound on our models back in the 60's & 70's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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