Revell 1968 Hemi Dart - They're Finished

[dwc43]

Len,

May a noob like me ask a rather odd question?

Can you tell me where you got that engine

display stand you are using in this pic?

Thanks...for helping and especially for posting this

step-by-step. I know that doing so takes much more

effort than just building the model without detailing

the steps in photos and narrative.

True teachers are very rare.

David

I have an engine stand similar to that and it came out of a Lindberg 34 Ford pick up kit. You could build either a flat head or a V8 and put one on the stand and one in the truck.

Edited August 15, 2010 by dwc43

[oldscool]

I have an engine stand similar to that and it came out of a Lindberg 34 Ford pick up kit. You could build either a flat head or a V8 and out one on the stand and one in the truck.

They came in several of the old 60s AMT kits.

oldscool

Edited August 15, 2010 by oldscool

[meaneyme]

Thank you for sharing this build with us, certainly apppreciated. One thing I am seeing on this build though is all the mold lines left on some parts, I mean, for a featured build like this on a magazine or a forum, these should be addressed. Sorry for being so picky but why not include these items as part of your instructional project?

[highway]

Thank you for sharing this build with us, certainly apppreciated. One thing I am seeing on this build though is all the mold lines left on some parts, I mean, for a featured build like this on a magazine or a forum, these should be addressed. Sorry for being so picky but why not include these items as part of your instructional project?

You aren't the only one that's been wondering why seems and mold lines weren't taken care of.

[mrmike]

I spent the last 45 minutes carefully reading this thread and I am very impressed with the build quality from Bill and Len. I plan on getting this kit in the future and so far, I like what I have seen on this thread. I have learned a lot from this and will try it on my current build which is half done and on my next build, too. Thanks Bill and Len for starting this thread and I look forward to more!

[Brett Barrow]

Thank you for sharing this build with us, certainly apppreciated. One thing I am seeing on this build though is all the mold lines left on some parts, I mean, for a featured build like this on a magazine or a forum, these should be addressed. Sorry for being so picky but why not include these items as part of your instructional project?

You aren't the only one that's been wondering why seems and mold lines weren't taken care of.

Where? I don't see anything that's that bad. Some are on 440 parts that won't be used on the finished models and I appreciate Bill and Len for even including them in the build. Gotta remember too, when this thing goes to print those pics will be like 2" square, not full-screen blow-ups that are 4 or 5 times larger than the actual parts. I see things in my digital pics that I can't see with my naked eyes or even my magnifying visor.

[highway]

Where? I don't see anything that's that bad. Some are on 440 parts that won't be used on the finished models and I appreciate Bill and Len for even including them in the build. Gotta remember too, when this thing goes to print those pics will be like 2" square, not full-screen blow-ups that are 4 or 5 times larger than the actual parts. I see things in my digital pics that I can't see with my naked eyes or even my magnifying visor.

First, Brett, I'm not saying I don't appreciate this review, because I do! I'm even planning on buying one or two of these just because of the review, and I'm not a big Mopar fan. I guess the biggest ones that have been the parts joints on both transmissions and on the engine blocks that have been catching my eye. The size of the pics that will be printed doesn't really make a difference, either, because there have been quite a few builds in not only show coverage pics but articles as well where I've seen very noticealbe mold lines and some I've even though "I build better than this and have never been in a magazine!" In this case, though, I would have to agree the size of the pics are probably amplifying the joint seems, and the coloring of the transmission just drawing my eye to it more. In real life they might not be noticeable like they are here.

[edward smith]

Again, you have a constructive critisism on the build and people understand wrong. This build is certainly being appreciated and as highway says, it's because of this review that I will be buying this kit also. Additionaly, when you publish this in a magazine, it will surely be noticeable. I am not trying to make a big deal out of this but when you have a few years trying to perfect your skills, it's kinda hard seeing a "professional" not addressing these small issues and as Kevin says, why not take the opportunity to show how to take care of those issues while writing the article either here in the forum or in a future featured article in a magazine which I am certain will happen.

[Blake Rogers]

I can't wait to get this kit just to smush-cast those tasty '68-only porthole marker lights for my one-of-these-days '68 Charger. I might even make some extras and make them available to MCM members I really regret never having picked up any of the previous issues of the Dart.

i want about 20 sets

[Brett Barrow]

The questions regarding seams. joint lines, parting lines, wt al was addressed two weeks, (or one forum page), ago:

These are somewhat "quick" builds, with a deadline, & are going to be shelf models once all is said & done. Thus the seams, mold line etc. still being present.

I can especially see something like this for a deadline build such as these. Sometimes you have to let certain things go to meet a deadline. I also think it's a fairly safe presumption that most here are well aware of the importance of correcting such things for competition or if one chooses to, as the people mentioning it the most are the ones that in the same post mention that they correct those things.

Thanks for digging that up, Mark. The point that I was trying to make is that sharp, in-focus, close-up digital photography will show you things on a model that you (or even a GSL judge) would never be able to see in real life. Mr. Carsner even alluded to that in his response. I understand that phenomenon and was less critical in my assessment of Bill and Len's work, knowing that those flaws wouldn't come across as bad either in print or in person.

[mikemodeler]

This is yet another build along that I have watched from the start. Whether or not I buy this kit, I appreciate the detail and explanation given as well as the tips from other forum members to ensure accuracy.

Thanks to Len & Bill for taking time during their busy schedules to bring us this build up. I suspect there will be greater sales of this kit as a result of their efforts.Their previous posts on the several new releases are the reason why I have more model kits than the wife would like to see. I don't know if they get compensation beyond getting early releases of the kits but I can tell you they have earned it!

I can't wait to see what they come up with next!

Thanks again Len & Bill!

[1972coronet]

More beautiful work , Len !

I can almost see the B&M "J" Converter in that T-Flite !

I'll have to dig out my old copies of Scale Auto and look up the '83 issue that has the original build-up of 2 Hustlin' Hemi SS Darts

[Len Carsner]

Thanks for digging that up, Mark. The point that I was trying to make is that sharp, in-focus, close-up digital photography will show you things on a model that you (or even a GSL judge) would never be able to see in real life. Mr. Carsner even alluded to that in his response. I understand that phenomenon and was less critical in my assessment of Bill and Len's work, knowing that those flaws wouldn't come across as bad either in print or in person.

That's probably the best explanation of why seams might seem more pronounced in some of our pictures. High resolution digital photography brings out the best and worst in anything you have in front of the lens. Plus we're giving you images that might be two to three times larger than reality.

If we gave you pictures like this the parts would be closer to actual size and the seams wouldn't be as noticeable:

but the details aren't either.

BTW - new updates coming within the next two days, wrap up by the weekend.

Len C.

[MoparWoman Jamie]

Can you post the photos alittle bigger please?

[Zebra3]

Hi fellas,

Back with another noob question for Len or

anyone else who can answer it.

Can anyone tell me what color/brand of paint

that was used to paint to distributor cover?

I think its spot on perfect for the prototype.

Thanks again guys. Really learning alot on these

forums.

David

[dwc43]

I just use a tan color on mine, but mainly get the pre wired and colored ones from MAD.

[David G.]

Awesome looking power plant.

Edited August 22, 2010 by David G.

[Len Carsner]

Another week, another update as Bill wraps up the build on the Hustlin' Hemi. We're rapidly approaching the end of this project so follow along with this installment and watch for the next one coming soon!

Here the front inner fender panels are being mask-off to be painted white. All of Paul Richardson’s racecars had a white engine compartment. Paul says it made keeping things clean and leak free much easier. Strips of BMF were used along the separation line. Then low-tack painters tape was used along with a folded paper towel to finish the job.

Here the front inner fender panels have been painted with white automotive primer. Once the primer has thoroughly dried, all the masking was carefully removed. (The whole body including inner fender panels will get clear coated in a later step.) Work slow and very deliberate. Do not yank the tape away. Go very slow. Removing the masking tape too quickly can occasionally result in patches of paint being pulled off.

Once all the masking material have been removed, a small amount of adhesive may remain on surfaces like the under hood and front fender and cowl areas. Since the body, hood and scoop will be getting a final clear coat, using a cleaner like Goo Gone just makes sense. Just read the label: Removes Grease, Stickers, Tar, Gum, Crayon, Tape. That says it all.

Here the body with final prep for clear coat is being test fit one last time before painting. Be sure to paint the body, hood and scoop separately. Painting clear coat on the assembled hood/scoop may encourage runs and sags not to mention that getting them apart again is darn near impossible.

Once the final clear lacquer coat is completely dry, the rubbing out and polishing process begins. Sandpaper in varying grits like 6K, 8K and 12K are recommended. I started out with 4K (too coarse in this application) and spent quite a bit of time getting rid of the minute scratches. Work slowly, deliberately and cautiously. Don’t try to do everything too quickly. Going slow, little bit at a time can mean the difference between success and having to put on additional clear coats and starting the polishing process all over again.

Once you’re satisfied with your handwork on the finish, those pesky remains of white polish can be a problem to remove. A quick solution is an old toothbrush and a wee bit of moisture. Carefully work the bristle into the body lines making sure to not apply enough pressure to leave scars in the finish.

I noted that the bottom horizontal piece of the vent window frames was absent from the Dart body. An easy fix was to cut some narrow strips of sheet plastic to match the thickness of the surrounding frame uprights. Taper the leading edge, trim to fit and carefully glue into place. Presto! Problem solved.

If Bare Metal Foil presents a challenge for you, take heart. There’s only a scant amount of bright work on this spartan, all business race car like the 68 Hemi Dart. There are different approaches to applying BMF. Take time to experiment and settle on the method that works best for you.

continued....

[Len Carsner]

Applying the waterslide decals will pretty much complete the graphic treatment on our Hustlin’ Hemi. The unknown source decals being used here require individual layer registration. Let’s hope some other decal maker will pick the HH to do in the future. Also note that SLIXX is a great source for those necessary contingency sponsors like the decal sheet shown here.

Also note the custom-made side windows in the foreground. The HD kit comes with quarter windows but no door glass. Some of the graphics for the HH are displayed on the side windows. These pieces were cut from .010 Butyrate clear plastic sheet. Then the proper decals were positioned on each window according to references.

In this photo, there’s been a lot of activity including painting the headliner, installing the visors, dome light and rearview mirror and temporarily taping the kit glass and hand-made side windows into place. From this point on, clear white glue was carefully applied in a bead around the edges of each section of glass.

As promised, the steering column/box (Part 23) has found its way into this 68 HD. For Revell to engineer such a unique piece would have required tooling up a second such part, again, increasing tooling costs. I simply shaved the thickness of the box down with a drum sander in my Mini-Mite until it would slide into place. That area between the front inner fender panel and the left side headers is very tight as can be seen here.

Here, the race car shorty pipes with flow-through mufflers are temporarily mounted in place, attached to the header collectors. Paul Richardson says these exhaust system parts were the first thing to be discarded, as NHRA didn’t enforce their use.

At this point Bills' car is done and ready for it's beauty shots. But what about my gray car?

Stay tuned - one more update and it will be time for the grand finale.

Thanks,

Bill and Len

Edited August 22, 2010 by Len Carsner

[Jon Cole]

OK, guys... you sold me on the kit! Great job on the build-up, and keeping us in the loop!

Edited August 22, 2010 by Jon Cole

[Len Carsner]

Haven't shown much of my build because, quite frankly, I'm not doing anything much different than Bill is doing with his car. The paint scheme is the main difference, so let's update what I'm doing.

I chose the simple color scheme of the as-delivered cars - primer gray body with a semi-gloss fiberglass nose. Duplicolor primer was used for the body and chassis while Tamiya TS-29 did the trick for the nose.

Here I've slipped the body over the chassis just to get an idea of how it's coming along. Looks pretty good to me!

My color scheme for the chassis is a little different than what Bill did. I figured the body, once welded together, would have been primed as a whole unit so I left the chassis primer gray like the upper body portion. The front frame rails were painted black, as I assumed they would have been painted along with the engine compartment. Here you can see the four speed trans and headers. Unlike Bill I left the exhaust pipe extensions off.

Here I've set the engine in place, surrounded by the finished firewall and radiator support. You can also see one of the steel wheels I'm using from the Revell Thunderbolt kit.

On the left is the interior for my car, on the right is a stock interior I quickly threw together to show the difference between the two. I'm using the bucket seats from the Thunderbolt kit as they look more accurate than the A100 seats from the Little Red Wagon kit. However I didn't scratch build the special seat mounts like Bill did since they will not be seen once the car is assembled.

At this point I still have to install the side glasses, door handles, sun visors, front bumper, and hood pins then hope I can get the body to fit down over the chassis and engine without anything falling off.

Check back Thursday when we'll wrap this project up.

Thanks,

Bill and Len

[Len Carsner]

Well, they're finally finished and it's time for their close ups. Let's get to it!

Revell was kind enough to give us these images of the box art cars. Cars like these can be built with nothing more than what's in the box.

What about the box stock Hemi Dart?

Well, I think it turned out nicely. This one was fun since I didn't have to worry about achieving the perfect paint job, just primer and semi gloss black did the trick. I spent some time cleaning it up before the pictures were taken but it still looks like I have dirt or spots on the car. It's probably just odd reflections because of the combination of gloss, semi gloss, and flat paint.

It may need a couple of adjustments to its stance but in all I'm pleased with the results. Other than the wheels and seats from the Revell Thunderbolt kit nothing other than the box contents was used to build this car.

Now, on to Bills' race version of the Dart.

Edited August 27, 2010 by Len Carsner

[Len Carsner]

Here the Hustlin Hemi sits at rest in preparation for serious competition. The proportions, stance and overall appearance of this latest Revell interpretation of an iconic 68 Dodge Dart do this legendary race car complete justice. Whatever version you choose to build and whatever markings suit your fancy, this kit will satisfy your requirements.

Whether you choose to display your Revell 68 Hemi Dart with the hood in place or as shown here as it would have appeared, in the pits at the strip back in the day, out-of-the-box or fully detailed, this, the fourth 68-69 Dart model from Revell is quite a welcome addition.

Hard to believe its been 40 years. Shown here is my original Hustlin Hemi built in 1970 from a Charlie Allen funny car combined with a 69 Cuda kit and a Johan 65 Plymouth Fury Super Stock engine among other things. The color difference is 1970 model car paint vs. 2010 automotive colors. The original Hustlin Hemi graphics were all hand-painted. The new HH benefits from crisp and clean waterslide decals.

That ends another of our preview/review builds. We hope you enjoyed this presentation as much as we enjoyed presenting it.

We'd like to think the forum moderators and owners for allowing us the use of their boards and for helping to maintain an air of civility within the conversations. We'd also like to thank all of the forum readers and posters who commented and shared their knowledge of this iconic car.

This project would not have been possible without the help and support of the good people from Revell. Thanks to you all!

Thanks again, and hopefully we'll see you soon with our next project.

Bill Coulter and Len Carsner

Edited August 27, 2010 by Len Carsner

[Jim0205]

Job well done Gentlemen. Thanks for the review and the greta builds to follow.

[Brett Barrow]

And so do I!