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25 Ford Model-T Tow Truck - update: 05/11/13


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the wheels look fantastic Alyn ol buddy! maybe you could add just a tiny bit of weathering to the wheels around the center and outer spokes to help blend the light spots, just a thought, I think silver rim clamps would really set the green off, man don't lose that screwdriver!! awesome work as usual!!

Thanks, Bill. I have done some touch up on the spokes and they look much better. I finished paintng the green on the other wheels and then dabbed some Tamiya brown acrylic at the base of the spokes and around the hubs. They look pretty good now. I also added the valve stems. After the final touch up, the wheels have all kinds of paint on them. There's a layer of Plasticoat primer, Krylon enamel, artists oils, Model Masters clear lacquer, Tamiya synthetic lacquer, and Tamiya water born acrylic. DId I miss any? :mellow:

I still plan on painting the clamps (Floquil) black with either silver or gold bolts, and also dry brush the hubs and apply some weathering powders.

David, thanks for the compliment. I focus on the details, so your comments mean alot.

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Hi Alyn, I do believe that you may have forgotten to use some day-glow water paints :D:D but you did hit the major ones !

I think your wheels are looking good, seats are right on !!!

Randy

Actually, I think that was the problem, Randy. Those light spots looked day-glow to me :wacko:

Here they are after all paint work is done. I wish I would have painted the clamps silver instead of black; they'd show up better. They will still get some dust with a bit of chalk powder, but they'll look pretty much like this

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's some of the final shots of the chassis before I start mounting the fenders and body. The steering column and related parts are only mocked up. In order to make the steering operational, the column has to be run up through the steering box from the bottom up. Then the throttle and spark controls and steering wheel are added. This will have to be done after the body is mounted, so these parts aren't painted or glued/soldered at this point. Same goes for the hand brake and drivers side brake rod. Otherwise, the chassis is pretty much done. After the body is mounted, a lot of this detail will never be seen again.

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Full working steering; when the front wheels are turned, the steering wheel turns in the appropriate direction. Brake rod is not yet mounted on this side.

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I took the shot below to mimic an online photo that I had used to get some good chassis detail. You can see that the rear axle tubes could stand to be narrower, but otherwise I'm pretty happy with the chassis. Now on to the body.

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thanks for looking in

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and finally some color. I figured this two-tone combo of black and green would give a nice vintage look.

fenders:

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body:

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now that the paint's flowing, this thing is finally starting to look like something.

I love how paint transforms ...

and the last one for now;

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Edited by Alyn
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thanks for the support, gents, and glad to hear the color's working.

I rounded up some better detail shots of some of the chassis/engine detail. Though some of you guys might prefer a closer seat.

Here's a close up with a better shot of the battery and cables

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engine close up

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another angle. You can see the T clamps and bolts not provided by the kit

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steering linkage

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gas tanks and rear parking brake linkage

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there was mention* a while back about "gaskets". this is an example, in a small scale, where i think a head gasket adds a great degree of interest. we know it's not scale thinkness, but it does serve to identify and define two separate assemblies. nice touch. well, along with the other dozens ...

any chance of getting a look at the driver's side?

* don't remember the thread.

Edited by southpier
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there was mention* a while back about "gaskets". this is an example, in a small scale, where i think a head gasket adds a great degree of interest. we know it's not scale thinkness, but it does serve to identify and define two separate assemblies. nice touch. well, along with the other dozens ...

any chance of getting a look at the driver's side?

* don't remember the thread.

Here's a couple of shots of the drivers side. You can see in this view that the head gasket is pretty thin. I think it was .005". The shots showing the rear of the engine are deceiving and make the head gasket appear to be thicker than it actually is. Fortunately, the rear will not be seen in the finished model.

thanks for checking in

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I guess I should remind you Alyn, never wrap you're thumb around the crank when starting a T model ...............

Thanks, Ed. After researching for this project, I decided to use it as the topic for an upcoming Toastmasters speech. I plan on giving a speech to my local Toastmasters group this Wednesday on how to drive a Model-T. There will certainly be a paragraph on the start up proceedure, and keeping your thumbs, wrists and arms intact. :)

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looks like you will have this done for the Heartland Alyn? beautiful work

Thanks, Bill. I hope to have it wrapped up in about a week. Mostly final assembly left to go, and some minor painting chores. I've been waiting to hear a report from your Salina, Kansas trip. Sounds like there was a good turn out at the KAMS show.

Here's where I'm at today. Trying to get to the point where the fenders can be permanently attached to the chassis. Here's the wooden floor boards, cut and shaped from basswood and stained with Minwax #211 Provincial without clear. Now I'm trying to decide what kind of glue I have that will adhere to both wood and painted plastic.

The pedals stick up through a hole in the floor, so the brass plate is necessary to close up the hole.

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This assembly will mount to the rear of the truck frame and be lifted into position by the hook on the wrecker boom. The pivoting bar can then be bound to another vehicle for towing(and lifting).

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I'm also trying to create a set of tools for the truck; just something to toss into an open toolbox. The tool tray is made from some .005 brass folded up and soldered with a brass tubing handle on top. The tire iron, screw driver and hammer are scratch built. The wrenches are laser cut cardboard; primed and then painted black and topped with Alclad chrome.

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Edited by Alyn
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