sno_man80 Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Just a few questions for anyoone but I feel Mr. Obsessive is the best for answers! But please, feel free anyone to help out. I've asked around and nobody localy can explain why Future Floor Wax would be put on a model before it gets primed. I have heard from one guy who says he dips all his windshields and windows in Future and puts them in a box ofr about a month to dry, giving them a real glass look. But whats the point of spraying it on before painting or priming? Another question, I've seen the engine from the Turbine car, looks just beautiful, what are you using for all your break lines, linkages, and connectors? I want to start running brake lines on my models and have no idea where to start. I appreciate the help, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanSilva Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Freaky, i have no idea to the truth of sparaying future before painting. I do know future self levels, so that maybe why... im stumped.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Mark has it pretty much correct as to why Future is used for cases like that. I also have been using it lately on this "new" plastic from Revell which has been subject to crazing. Not everyone has been experiencing the crazing, but when it comes to painting I don't like to tempt fate so I like to barrier the plastic with Future before anything. The military guys have been using Future for years so its been in the modeling scene for quite some time. As far as fuel/brake lines it depends.................On the Turbine Car engine, I used various diameters of bead wire which can be picked up at any arts and crafts store. It gets kinda dull over time on the spool, so I fold some 400 grit sandpaper in half, and "comb" the wire to shine it up a bit before cutting the piece I need. I work with cables on the job, so I also have an endless supply of other types of wires and such to use. :wink: The linkages you've seen are tiny photoetched pieces from Detail Master. They take some patience to work with but add to the detail when put on correctly. Sometimes I'll scratchbuild my own brackets.............the brackets holding up the throttle roller was scratchbuilt using cut thin stainless steel sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sno_man80 Posted March 19, 2007 Author Share Posted March 19, 2007 that helped but new question! :? Whts crazing :?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismaelg Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 That's making somebody else crazy Actually it refers to the effect of paint reacting with or "eating up" the plastic. Paints with strong solvents like lacquers are usually called "hotter" and they attack the bare plastic. That's why we use primer as a barrier. More recently, new models are having this problem even with "softer" paints. So more precautions are needed to prevent the plastic from been damaged. Hope this helps. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 19, 2007 Share Posted March 19, 2007 Bill, how well does the Future work in preventing the crazing issues with the new Revell plastic? I haven't tried it yet. 8) Excellent!! If you go to my Fotki page and look under "Models I have built", you'll see the albums for my 2005 Mustang GT and the '05 'Vette kits I did. Both were by Revell who seemed to have more of a problem with crazing plastic than the other manufacturers. I have step by step build up pics of how I used the Future. The threads for both buildups are somewhere here in the "Under the Workbench" section too...............I'm just being lazy right now to find the links for it! I just got home from work and dinner is a 'callin'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zebm1 Posted March 20, 2007 Share Posted March 20, 2007 I've also heard that sum use Future on resin models to seal and provide a better tooth for primers. :twisted: Zeb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ramonesblues Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 If you apply the primer in light coats, you should be ok. I've been using regular automotive lacquer primer for years with out problems.If you do get some crazing, the primer can be sanded to eliminate it.Four or five light coats should keep you out of the woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.