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Mach2

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  1. Mach2

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    I know better, you're just building up your thread count.
  2. Glad to help Looker. I did a How To on another modeling forum, here's teh link. http://randyayersmodeling.com/modelingforum/viewtopic.php?t=38952&highlight=yellow+wheel+lines
  3. Winscals decals, krylon indoor/outdoor gloss black and krylon interior/exterior gold. I now have a set of thin manila folder cardboard templates so the two Winscals decal sheets for the remaining #29 ESGR schemes ran in 2004 will be done, soon. While waiting for the decals I added a few more details, valve stems in the wheels and the driver side mirror mounted to the vertical roll bar behind the vent window. The roof 29 decal has the white border with gold outside of the white and I wish the gold was added to the hood and both side red arc decals too. Only the white is on the outside of those decals. I almost took a gold gel pen and traced over the white but didn't think I could pull that off without screwing up the decals & paint. I really like the way the front valance decal, from the 03-04 chevy & pontiac JWTBM goodie sheet, sucked tightly around the GrandtLine rivets. Here's the mirror; Here's the front valance decal over the rivets; Two of the four so far;
  4. Really pleased with the color match and the way the decals came out. I made decal templates from manila folder material, used the templates to trace onto the white painted body the outline of the hood and both side front & rear decals. Then layed the templates over a strip of masking tape, traced the outline on the tape and then cut the masking tape on the traced lines. Then I matched the hood cut masking tape template to the traced line and layed it down. Same procedure for the sides. Masked the body off and shot it. Duplicolor auto white primer, Tamiya ts-26 pure white lacquer and Boyd's Sunburst enamel. Added the post race details around the wheel wells and nose as well as a few Slixx goodies sheet tire rub decals to match the left side pic of the car on track. Next up is the same scheme, but the #29 B Labonte ESGR Army that ran at the Texas Spring Busch race. This car Won the final Busch Series race at Homestead 2004.
  5. Part b; Once the putty is dry, start sanding the area flush to the surrounding area till it looks like this. Cut a length of 7/32" aluminum tube short enough so it fits inside the drilled out plastic tube, cut a slightly shorter piece of 3/16" aluminum tube so it is slightly below the larger aluminum tube. Cut a piece of 1/8" plastic rod slightly taller that the short piece of 3/16" aluminum tube and paint or use a black sharpie on the end of the plastic rod. Almost done now, here's what it looks like Here's two very helpful tools, a 6 fluted 100 deg countersink to champfer the aluminum tkube inside diameter, the plastic tube and the plastic surrounding the hole where the pieces of aluminum tube and plastic rod assy goes. This detail is not a slam dunk, quick & easy deal. It takes a little time, but if it was easy......................everyone would be doing it. Here's one on the #88 NAVY Nationwide car and the 06 Dollar General Talladega Busch build. Any questions, comments or disagreements, let me know.
  6. This is a How To I did on another Forum. It's for a 2006-07 monte carlo, but on the 2000-2002 monte carlo's or a Taurus or Intrepid that has a plastic molded fuel filler just drill it out to the size where the larger diameter aluminum tube will fit into. Well, here goes for an updated 06 & newer fuel filler. Part a; Adhesive & putty Parts, 1/4" Evergreen plastic tube & 1/8" Evergreen plastic rod. #105 7/32" K&S aluminum tube & #104 3/16" K&S aluminum tube. Cut a short length of 1/4" plastic tube, hold it at the angle you want and with the finger of the left hand holding the body and the piece of 1/4" plastic tube at the angle you like, squeeze a little green bottled Zap-a-Gap into the funnel to initially glue down the plastic tube. It doesn't take very long and you can let go of the body and plastic tube in your left hand. another view Now take some micro balloons, or if you don't have that use baking soda. Squeeze more Zap-a-Gap into the funnel on the outside of the plastic tube and pour in the micro balloons or baking soda, then take a toothpick and stir up this mix inside the funnel, outside of the plastic tube. It'll look like this. another view After you've done this a couple times, to get the Zap-a-Gap/micro balloons/baking soda dried mix above the rear quarter body line, cut the tube with an x-acto knife and start sanding. I like to use these flexible double sided fingernail files from WalMart. One side is rough and the other side is not so rough, and they're flexible and work nicely. I use blue painters tape around the LH corner of the rear spoiler and the LH trunk hinge to protect them during the sanding process. Once you get it close to being flush to the body line mask off around the outside of the area and drill the inside of the 1/4" plastic tube till the larger diameter 7/32" K&S aluminum tube fits inside the 1/4" plastic tube. Leave a short piece of aluminum tube inserted and apply the Bond glazing & spot putty to build the area up.
  7. This was the former 2000 #5 Frosted Flakes that the Slixx decals exploded when the black tiger stripe decals hit water. This is a Busch Series ride Jack Sprague was in and the next year the Team moved to Cup. Tamiya ts-30 silver leaf for a base, krylon fusion red pepper that's too dark. This is the first time the spoon test failed, the spoon sprayed with krylon fusion red pepper was brighter and lighter than the shade on the body. Probably due to being sprayed over the silver leaf and the spoon had the white plastic base. The only two issues with this 2002 Slixx sheet was the silver zig-zag decals were a little brittle, but that was a known fact on the metallic decals, and the white door #24 decals dried tight across the gap in the bottom of the door and top of the side valance. I picked the model up this AM to take these pic's and squeezed the RH white #24 decal and broke it. You can see it in the first pic. :oops: :shock: :rant:
  8. Dave, I just started adding the self taught post race details. You're probably right about the worn tire effect on the passenger side, but if a car has a tire rub on the passenger side of the body then it got that rub from a cars driver side tire, right? That's why I do the tire rub effects but heavier on the passenger side tires. Oh, wait a minute. I just re-read your question and you're talking about the tire rub on the passenger side of the body, not the worn tire details I just detailed it as per these two pic's where the tire rub is visible, but like I said above.....if a car has a tire rub on the passenger side, it got it from the drivers side tire of the car that was outside of him;
  9. 2009 Nationwide Impala SS; 2009 CoT Impala SS; The Nationwide Impala SS is just a re-badged Monte Carlo SS and the Revell 2006-2007 kits will work for that body style. If you're looking to build a 2009-2010 Cup CoT, you'll have to wait till the AMT 1:25th scale Impala SS CoT kits are released. A discussion on another Forum points out that the difference between 1:24th scale & 1:25th scale is minimal and decal sheets from late 2008, 2009 & 2010 will work on the upcoming AMT 1:25th CoT kits, and decal makers are gearing up to produce CoT decal sheets in 1:25th scale.
  10. Intrepid_R/T, are you looking for a Impalla SS CoT body, or a Impala SS Nationwide body? AMT is coming out with the Impala SS Cot, and the Impala SS Nationwide body is the same as the former Monte Carlo body with a few added small grills and the Impala SS badging. Most 2008 & 2009 Nationwide Impala SS decal sheets have these additions and you use the Revell 2006-2007 Monte Carlo kit & body.
  11. 06 Revell Monte kit, Thad's great decals, flush skirts, RH exhaust, Mike70SS 09 Goodies sheet for the rear spoiler flange attach decal, lowered the stance and installed the two piece aluminum tube with plastic rod center fuel filler receptacle an a more accurate rearward angle. The very small Coca-Cola decals around the roof camera base came from an 01 #9 Dodge Intrepid kit decal sheet, well it took two sheets cause there's two of these decals per sheet. I post race detailed it per the couple late race ref pic's and added the helmet and waving checkered flag denoting the Phoenix Victory.
  12. That is outstanding modeling Spyder, really well thought out and completed.
  13. Hello David. I'd like to say it was on purpose so as to reflect the stiffer RH springs making the car set higher on the passenger side while at rest. But that's not the case. I did notice that the body was setting hiked on the passenger side after the pic's were posted. I have since re-attached the body squarely on the chassis. The RF tire was hitting the top of the wheel well. I had to trim the top of the wheel well thinner and it dropped down in proper alignment. I would appreciate your comments on the post race detals, especially on the second set of pics where I post race detailed the wheels & tires. Thanks.
  14. Well, I was not happy with the post race details on the body and the wheels & tires being in pristine non raced condition. I worked on post race details on the wheels & tires this morning and also added a few donut decals from a Slixx 99 Stock Car Goodie sheet. Now the whole package looks correct in post race details.
  15. Mark won the 05 Las Vegas Busch Series race with this scheme. Revell 05 #17 Taurus kit, Winscals decals, JWTBM hood pin decals, added the yellow lower valance decal per ref pics. I was going to not do a post race look on this one, but since the previous build had a post race look and I didn't do post race details on the wheels & tires I decided to to some post race body details and give the wheels/tires a post race look too. Used tamiya acrylic gun metal brush effects to the wheels to represent brake dust build up and then layed a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on the table and layed the outer part of the tire on it and rotated the tire to scuff/sand off the decals to the high side of the tires. Rear spoiler braced made from .030" rod for the upper & lower horizontal pieces and .020" hex rod for the vertical pieces. Lowered stance, teardrop roof camera made from flat .015" plastic. Two piece aluminum tube and plastic rod center fuel filler and aluminum tube overflow.
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