Hawk312 Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 This is the first time I tried this, spraying this stuff over bare plastic. This is on the Revell `66 GTO kit. I lightly sanded and washed the body, and then sprayed with 4 coats of the Phoenician Yellow. I have let it dry for about 2 weeks now, and I still cant use any compound on the body without it smearing. Has anyone had trouble with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I always prime so I am not sure what happened. I guess I would ask if you waited between your coats and if they were light coats ? Couple light coats and a couple wet coats ? Humidity ? Two weeks would be enough time for even enamel to dry. Someone should be along to better address your question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Ummmmm, reading the label is sometimes a good idea. I'm looking at a fresh can of Testors Phoenician Yellow Custom Lacquer 28102, and it says : "2 Part System. Base+Clear Required". Maybe that's your problem. Notice it doesn't asy "clear okay if you feel ilke it", but "clear REQUIRED". I really don't mean to bust your chops David. Sorry if it seems harsh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest G Holding Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 David.....its not the lack of clear. I suspect you have a contamination problem. Lacquer should dry in hours....not days. I too always prime, sand and reprime and the primer is dry through mockup. If it still smells and is tacky, drop it into a bath of 91% alcohol, let dry and prime it. let it sit for a day or so. Primer will shrink...good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymcminn Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I still cant use any compound on the body without it smearing. If you didn't clear over the Phoenician Yellow, it will react badly to any sort of compound or polish you try to use on it. The Custom Lacquer colors are VERY soft and are not meant to be polished, or even handled, without clearcoat. It will never achieve the hard finish of a Tamiya or Testors One-Coat lacquer because it isn't meant to. Any oils from your skin will soak into the porous surface and cause it to come off on your hands as well. Not priming the surface might make this even more noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 (edited) Thank you Jason, and for Gregory, Why do you suppose Testors wasted the ink to print "clear required" ? Just to sell more product? I've been painting real cars for over 40 years, off and on, and in my experience, the VAST majority of problems people have with finishes is failing to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Base coats on REAL paint have absolutely NO resistance to anything until they're cleared, cannot be buffed, etc. But just so I'll know for sure, I'm opening my new can of Phoenician Yellow and spraying it on bare plastic to see what happens. Then I'll clear it, tomorrow to see what happens. Edited July 10, 2012 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longbox55 Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Jason and Bill both have valid points. The Testors laquer is intended to be cearcoated to get the shine. It is also somewhat soft. However, having said that, I have left it without the clear to get a specific effect, mainly a satin/flat finish, with no issues with it drying or rubbing off. Also, even though it can be shot onto bare plastic without too many ill effects, priming is definetly reccomended. I have seen issues with some brands of plastic (mainly AMT) that will show the draft lines in the finish if not primed first. This is very noticable with the metallic colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 I read Gregory's post again and he says he thinks it might be contamination, which i think may also be a possibility after reading David's post again. Plowboy's question about what you washed it with is a good one, David. Some common household washing products don't rinse clean and leave a residue that, I suppose, COULD somehow react with your paint. Because Longbox55 has been able to get away with NOT clearing, as he says, something else might be going on. Since I started doing a final wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol on real cars, planes and on models, I haven't had any weird problems. I have a Revell '70 Chevelle that's probably the same plastic as your '66 GTO that I'll test on. As Longbox says though, TO GET THE SHINE, it's going to have to be cleared. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawk312 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 Thanks for all the input guys....lots of good points. I dont think the problem is the lack of clear coat. I`ve never had trouble with this line before (and I`ve used *lots* of them), and I have two Corvettes in Classic White and Daytona Yellow right next to it which are plenty dry and polishable. I am using a mix of warm water and dish detergent for cleaning. But Kenny gave me a thought....so a food dehydrator dries paint 2x faster for every 10º above ambient temperature correct? Does this work in reverse? For the past week and a half, temps have been around 100º-105º around here because of the heat wave. I always bring my cars inside to dry, where it`s been 30º-35º cooler than outside temps. Could it be slowing down the drying times that much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Just out of my incorrigible curiosity, why would you paint a car with a product that specifies "clear REQUIRED" and then not use the clear? Help me understand. I may be stupid. Also, I just painted the underside of the seat pan in the Revell kit I mentioned with the Phoenician Yellow. It smells EXACTLY like automotive basecoat, by the way. 4 coats, no orange peel, dry to the touch but tacky if messed with, and exactly like an automotive wet-on-wet basecoat ready for clear. I'm going to clear mine, whenever I use it. Bet I don't have any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawk312 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 Just out of my incorrigible curiosity, why would you paint a car with a product that specifies "clear REQUIRED" and then not use the clear? Help me understand. I may be stupid. After 30+ years of building, I tend not to read instructions too much any more. Yeah, I know, probably foolish. Honestly though, I`ve been using these paints back since the green Camaro almost a decade ago, and this is the first time I had problems. I`d be interested in your results once you get the clear on. Maybe I will try spraying the hood with clear and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Dave , After reading through all of the posts , I think I'll side with Kenny on this . I believe you ended up with a badly mixed can of paint from the factory! After two weeks , it should have dried to some degree. Spraying clear over it won't help your problem . The base must be fully cured for the two step process to work properly ! Strip it and start over with a fresh can of paint . One more thing ..... You should still read the instructions ! Lol ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawk312 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 One more thing ..... You should still read the instructions ! Lol ! Lol. Or maybe this time spray enamel thinned with Laquer thinner? Those finishes are fantastic!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Now there's a thought ! Lol ! Airbrush ! Enamels ! Yeah , Buddy !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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