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Pro Mod Batteries...?


tyrone

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I know this may not be the right place for this... but do all pro mods have 2 batteries?? reason I'm asking is because I know I've seen a pic somewhere and it just had one battery... i'm working on the El General car and I'm doing the batteries and I'm leaning towards just one.... any help is appreciated....

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that would be the accurate choice. adrl and most outlaw cars run no minimum weight so carrying two batteries would be shooting a hole in your own foot. the new lithium batteries joe is referring too, have smoking power and you only need one. at about 20 pounds for the battery your saving a ton of weight.these cars are all about being seriously light.

nhra cars are a different story. these cars need to make a specific weight and are not allowed a lot of bolt in ballast (30 lbs. max. seems to ring a bell). batteries escentially are bolt in ballast without actually counting as bolt in ballast. i believe the total weight allowed is 100lbs.

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that would be the accurate choice. adrl and most outlaw cars run no minimum weight so carrying two batteries would be shooting a hole in your own foot. the new lithium batteries joe is referring too, have smoking power and you only need one. at about 20 pounds for the battery your saving a ton of weight.these cars are all about being seriously light.

nhra cars are a different story. these cars need to make a specific weight and are not allowed a lot of bolt in ballast (30 lbs. max. seems to ring a bell). batteries escentially are bolt in ballast without actually counting as bolt in ballast. i believe the total weight allowed is 100lbs.

Dave you have a superb memory, all that racing and reading up serves you well. :D

For those of us, less fortunate that are not aware of the Sanctioning Rules for ADRL, Just a quick glance at the ADRL site for the New Pro Modified 2012 Rules it says the following about Ballasts:

"Ballast: Permitted. Any ballast mounted on, or in front of, forward crossmember is limited to 30 lbs maximum, including bracket. Maximum length of bracket 12", measured from the front of the crossmember. Maximum distance from front motor plate to front of bracket is 36". Bracket may be constructed of either min 1 1/4" x .058" wall round chromoly tubing with min four 3/8" diameter SAE grade 8 bolts for attachment. Other designs for mounting weight forward of front crossmember must be ADRL accepted prior to use. All other weight bars, pucks, etc. must use minimum 1/2" diameter SAE grade 8 bolts for attachment."

As for Batteries in this Class: Maximum of 2 batteries allowed. All batteries must be securely fastened. Batteries (including battery box) must weight less than 100lbs. An external master electrical shut off clearly labled "Push Off" is required. Pro Nitros doesn't have the weight limit outlined in the 2012 specs.

Oh and the potential reason for 2 batteries is possibly due to the mandatory onboard starter required that all cars in this class be self starting in the new ADRL/NHRA Pro Mod class.

But like Dave said, lighter is better in the ADRL only class.

Very interesting if you are building an NHRA Pro Mod, some things to keep in mind when building it up around the "Ballasts" to be accurate.

Edited by eviltwincustoms
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Thanks Dave and Bart you guys are AWESOME...... that's what I LOVE about this forum, not only are the most talented people on here, but everyone is very helpful, and does not mind helping out...this is hands down the BEST forum IMOP..... Thanks again.....

Edited by tyrone
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Two batteries sure look great though. :rolleyes: I build more for fun. I'd rather have a well detailed perfect part than a poorly realized accurate part. (only talking about my abilities) The shape/colors of the Optima batteries define the part rather well. Even if I build the Braille battery perfectly, without the artwork decals to cover the battery, is it any better? Of course those who have the talent to print their own decals are set.

That means a sheet of chassis component decals would be great too!! NOS bottle labels, MSD mags , Msd boxes, moroso's , Braille, Sonny's etc.

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Two batteries sure look great though. :rolleyes: I build more for fun. I'd rather have a well detailed perfect part than a poorly realized accurate part. (only talking about my abilities) The shape/colors of the Optima batteries define the part rather well. Even if I build the Braille battery perfectly, without the artwork decals to cover the battery, is it any better? Of course those who have the talent to print their own decals are set.

That means a sheet of chassis component decals would be great too!! NOS bottle labels, MSD mags , Msd boxes, moroso's , Braille, Sonny's etc.

I see where you are coming from and I am sure there are plenty more just like you that love to build this was as well. But I would have to ask, if you are building a Braille battery if it didn't have the decal (art work) would it actually be built as you say, a "Well Detailed or perfectly" built part or even an "Accurate" part at that point?

In my opinion I would have to say "no". This is why it is important to go that extra mile and capture the proper decal images as necessary to complete your scratch parts, so they look like the real thing. The Optima batter is very distinctive with its cylindrical cells, but without the oval "Optima" decal it still isn't "Well Detailed" or "Accurate" either. :)

It sure would make things easier if we did have someone making new decals in 1/16th scale, for those of us without an Alps Printer for white and metallic decals.

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i thought most late or current pro-mods used two batteries, one for the starter and the other for the electronics. i think Dave Smith mentioned something recently too about some cars having two different sized batteries too, maybe the smaller one is for the electronics?

So, 1 for the starter, and one for the electonics box..i assume the second battery would run directly to the electonics box?

Also, where online can i find a good picture of an electronics box? I searched Google but came up with everything from the beatles box sets to ps3!

My apologies tyrone..not intending to HJ your thread, I figured why open another thread...

Edited by Evil Appetite
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msd sells many kinds of "electronic box's". what type of ignition are you working on?

as far as one for the starter and one for the eletronics box's, that's not necessarily true. you could do it that way but, you don't have to do it that way.

as far as a smaller battery for the ignition, i was reffering to a mag ignition with an hand held / remote starter. that system can run off a very small battery in a car like that.

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I see where you are coming from and I am sure there are plenty more just like you that love to build this was as well. But I would have to ask, if you are building a Braille battery if it didn't have the decal (art work) would it actually be built as you say, a "Well Detailed or perfectly" built part or even an "Accurate" part at that point?

In my opinion I would have to say "no". This is why it is important to go that extra mile and capture the proper decal images as necessary to complete your scratch parts, so they look like the real thing. The Optima batter is very distinctive with its cylindrical cells, but without the oval "Optima" decal it still isn't "Well Detailed" or "Accurate" either. :)

It sure would make things easier if we did have someone making new decals in 1/16th scale, for those of us without an Alps Printer for white and metallic decals.

I did an extensive image search on the computer last night and found some useable images that I was able to resize and re-shape to produce a 25th scale decal image from at least three different Braille batteries. Simply print on to white decal film and trim to the edge and your good to go.

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