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32 3-window coupe ,flathead v8 , " scalp't " , painted metallic copper


crazyrichard

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thnx !!

made a inner firewall to close up the opening and because i made a new tunnel the old fitment didnt work anymore

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from the inside , the seems will not be there after real fitment everything is still loose

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checking the engine fitment

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want to add brakelines underneith and but some bondo on the seems and clean up the rough areas

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flattened the innder wall with the tunnel , wont be visiblke after fitment but i think i will do some bondo and sand it

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shifter inside

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dryfit of the steering colom and wheel , going to use a different steering wheel , this is just mock up

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made the steering colom go through the wall

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Edited by crazyrichard
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Nice clean work! For future reference, if you want to be prototypicaly correct, the idler/tension pulley for the blower drive should go on the slack side of the belt i.e. the left side, when looking at the front of the engine (car engines rotate clockwise).

found these brass stacks ' date=' they where on a iron string , dont know what they where[/quote']

They look like "ball ends" from guitar strings. :)

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I kinda like it in a weird sort of way.

Keep it up.

A local shop owner friend of mine cut up a real 1932 Ford coupe a couple years ago for a client. He chopped it , recessed the frewall and moved the rear inner wheel wells in about an inch on each side.

Last I heard the car still wasn't done. Owner was planing a blown flat head Ford V8 with a 5 spd behind it

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thnx guys , and about the pulley , then i have fitted it upside down ..

didnt think to check and did it because i could drill out the bigger pulley and slide it over the one i made on top on teh blower ...

but i love to hear these things because since i came here and saw a lot of great stuff .. i'm really trying to step it up on function and accurate stuff (as much as possible , sometimes a bit od cheating is nessecery to get your idea's transfered to styrene)

some progress

took 2 aircleaners , most people here recognise them from the revell kits

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and drilled them open in the center and used them as base for brake drums .. > wip

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primered the engine

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then started the front suspension , in the future i want to make them more acurate , lowered the front axle so changed the shocks and replaced the center leaf spring

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the leafspring

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then did the first total dryfit with everything in place

everything runs free radiator shell and radiator fit , steering rod clears , engine clears , drive train fits and clears

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Edited by crazyrichard
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thnx guys

I love this! if I could suggest one thing. gotta ditch that steering wheel for something older. like a 40 ford wheel of something

yes thats what the text said , only using that steering wheel for mock up , def will use a nice old style wheel , i only used this style steering wheel ounce (recently) the rest all go into the partsbox lol sick of those ..

Looking good, Richard!

Do you have pics or thread for the truck on the far left below?

yes here is a link to the build thread , still not finished , its on hold (first time for me usually i do one model at ounce and finish it first)

needs a trailer for hauling rods

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65929

....

Edited by crazyrichard
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thnx for the awsome comments ! :) very loose dryfit of one drum in chrome , cant push it in the tyre the chrome needs to harden still after drying i will give the drum a wash so there will be some depth in the ....hmm how do you call them ...uuhhmm thos ribbled things (lol) 528842_249501851849399_657060283_n.jpg6357_249501848516066_658184273_n.jpg added the struts froim the axle to the chassis also altered them slightly so the fit against the chassis , had to because the axle was lowered , i even think this looks better then how you should fit it (read how revell made it :) ) 536863_249501988516052_590805868_n.jpg flattened the side where it go's on the chassis so it sits against the rails 554468_249501905182727_1452704157_n.jpg385231_249501925182725_666139742_n.jpg gave the engine a base coat of black , now i can add color and chrome and dress it up 388587_249501931849391_270231569_n.jpg32143_249501945182723_1480247419_n.jpg150892_249501998516051_186478900_n.jpg the bench-seat , dorpanels and dash also got a base coat of black thinking about a mettallic paint for body and chassis , bright color , maybe green ?

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def would be cool yes .. cant do candys now :(

i hope this summer

did the interiour plain black and painted the handles chrome , vents and stripe on dash chrome

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the bench was a try out thing i made some gold / black paint and washed it on , then rubbed it and made the seems black

thought it was cool to make the bench look a bit used , lived ..

not unhappy with the result , something different from the usual browns or .....

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strated on the engine , needs some cleaning up , the gold on the carbs is only a base layer , will be washed

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Edited by crazyrichard
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thnx guys !!

yesterday i could not get on the forum , so here is the update of yesterday , i have a nother one i will post today because of the max 10 pics ...

i made the sparkplug wires , i took thin brass wire , and on the valve covers i used the outer skin of electrical wire to resemble the cap that gos in the hole there

i took the electrical wire and stripped a tiny bit and pulled out the wire thats inside so i can slide in the brass wire..

the distributer i had no other option to place that up hig at the front ..all scratch build

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the effect of the seat >

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exhaust seen from behind

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actually used new valve covers since the otehr ones looking terrible , made them chrome and the bolts black

i wanted it not to look to show-y

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the sratch build distributer , painter that and the wires after puttting them on , used red enamel paint and aplied it with a wooden pin stick with a sharp edge .. (usually used for pieces of meat)

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Edited by crazyrichard
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